How Difficult is a 20 Gallon VS a 55 Gallon To Maintain (Heard Smaller Tanks May Be Harder)?

[JSkeleton]

From experience: Things can go really bad really quickly with a small tank, and you're probably more likely to be able to go longer without water changes on a lower bioload larger tank with equipment like a sump/skimmer/ato. As others have said, it's all about testing water and keeping parameters correct, which from experience, parameters are harder to keep stable in a smaller tank as small changes have a larger impact. Also, don't forget that IF something does go downhill, you can lose a lot of livestock, and saltwater creatures aren't cheap.

I'd stick with the 55g, I think you'll save money in the long run by having a more stable system. I honestly wish I started larger and didn't cheap out on stuff.

Edit: With that being said, you can always keep the 55 and start with a 20 to see how you like it, then convert it into the quarantine tank when you start up the 55 if you want. You'll need a quarantine tank anyway.

You make a fair point. That said, I don't have a sump or anywhere for a sump, is it really that important?

A Skimmer we don't currently have, but was thinking of getting one down the line when there's a sale (would have to be a HOB one though), but again, how crucial is one? In a 55g that isn't heavily stocked (few fish + cuc) without a sump and without a skimmer, would water changes need to be weekly or bi-weekly?

 

[averagesteve]

I'm not nearly as experienced as others on here, and I've had a lot of issues, but with what I've been through so far, I 100% would not set up another saltwater tank without a sump. It adds volume, a place for beneficial algae like chaeto to keep water quality higher, keeps all of gear like heaters and such out of the way. It's certainly possible to be really successful without one, but in my opinion, it's like playing on hard mode. Skimmer some say is less necessary, but it removes some waste before it has a chance to break down, so it helps maintain that water quality.

 

[steveschuerger]

I started small with a 16 gallon BioCube, went to 30 long AIO, right now I’ve got a 60 gallon shallow reef. Liked the nanos, especially the 30 but I’ve found my favorite is the 60. If I had room would've kept the 30 tho.

 

[Acros]

Right now we have both the 55 and 20 filled (20 was gonna be a QT but then was playing with the idea of it being the main tank if it saved cost and all that). So we're already part way deep at this point, it's more of a question of before getting fish and fully committing, I'm now strongly questioning how much maintaining costs will end up being for a 55 VS a 20, AND a 55 Salt VS Fresh (I'm concerned maintaining a Saltwater will be significantly more than if it were Freshwater. I know Saltwater is more obviously, but how much more to MAINTAIN is what I'm trying to fully understand).

There's a lot I'm not understanding right now still so idk haha

Yeah, it's definitely going to be FOWLR at least to start, and a good chance to stay that way (unless again, we get sucked into Corals haha). But if it's easier and cheaper to stay FOWLR that might be worth doing that!

I have a 25 gallon acro dominant tank setup for about 1.5 years. My setup cost + ongoing maintenance has totaled to about $4800 so far (I track everything out of curiosity).

Keep in mind that I have used mostly top of the line equipment and is keeping arguably the most difficult kind of corals.

Edit: I would attribute at least $1000 of that to bad/unused equipment and coral loss due to the steep learning curve this hobby has.

 

[JSkeleton]

I'm not nearly as experienced as others on here, and I've had a lot of issues, but with what I've been through so far, I 100% would not set up another saltwater tank without a sump. It adds volume, a place for beneficial algae like chaeto to keep water quality higher, keeps all of gear like heaters and such out of the way. It's certainly possible to be really successful without one, but in my opinion, it's like playing on hard mode. Skimmer some say is less necessary, but it removes some waste before it has a chance to break down, so it helps maintain that water quality.

Oh boy, so if I don't even have room for a sump, maybe I should be rethinking things then or?

 

[Reef.]

Ah, yeah? I guess my thought was half the salt used in a 20 VS a 55, and also half the RO water produced meaning filters would last longer. That said, I have another thread about RO systems where I'm trying to figure out realistically how long filters would actually last me (some people say 3 months for them, some say up to 2 years lol).

That said, in terms of water changes, are you not supposed to do weekly no matter what? I wanted to get away with bi-weekly, but everyone seems to say it must be weekly lol.

As for electricity, my pumps (got 2 Sicce 520gph) are like 3 Watts each it seems, same as my HOB Filter, so it seems the biggest cost is the Heater and potentially lighting? BUT, I imagine lighting is only more with Corals and FOWLR you can get away with more natural light?

you would likely be using the same light for either tank, so same cost, same for the return, one added powerhead is not worth mentioning, with a smaller tank, you mainly use water changes to remove nutrients, bigger tanks you have more tools so could get away with less water changes, for a nano, imo it would be a long time and a mature tank before you could get away with only a 10% water change, a bigger tank you would get there sooner.

Carbon you can change every 6 months or 9:if your water is low in tds, resin every 3-4 months, this is only an estimate, each setup is different.

The only big difference in cost I can see is heating, and that depends on your room temp, worse case 200w for the 55g on 24/7 (which is very unlikely) , if a unit of electric is 0.17cent that would be around $25 a month, for the 20g, around half that cost, if your home is heated to around 20c then your heater would likely only be on half the time so half the cost, $12 vs $6.

I think you need to think what equipment you will be using for both tanks, then consider if the cost will be significantly more, as a tank that is twice the size if not necessarily twice the cost.

 

[Acros]

you would likely be using the same light for either tank, so same cost, same for the return, one added powerhead is not worth mentioning, with a smaller tank, you mainly use water changes to remove nutrients, bigger tanks you have more tools so could get away with less water changes, for a nano, imo it would be a long time and a mature tank before you could get away with only a 10% water change, a bigger tank you would get there sooner.

Carbon you can change every 6 months or 9:if your water is low in tds, resin every 3-4 months, this is only an estimate, each setup is different.

The only big difference in cost I can see is heating, and that depends on your room temp, worse case 200w for the 55g on 24/7 (which is very unlikely) , if a unit of electric is 0.17cent that would be around $25 a month, for the 20g, around half that cost, if your home is heated to around 20c then your heater would likely only be on half the time so half the cost, $12 vs $6.

I think you need to think what equipment you will be using for both tanks, then consider if the cost will be significantly more, as a tank that is twice the size if not necessarily twice the cost.

What light could work on a 20g and a 55g reef tank? You would need at least double the light on a 55g, if not more.

 

[averagesteve]

Oh boy, so if I don't even have room for a sump, maybe I should be rethinking things then or?

It's up to you. My feelings about going sumpless are mostly related to previous issues I've had. I tried a 29 gal with a hang on back filter, ended poorly. I have a Fluval Flex 32.5 Marine AIO that is going OK, but there is limited room for things like skimmers and no room for a refugium big enough to make a difference, so the maintenance is actually more expensive because I need more water changes, and buy more things like chemipure blue to do the job that would partially be done by growing chaeto.

So basically what I personally found is more expensive upfront cost reduces the overall maintenance costs, and part of that is because having a sump adds a ton of filtration that reduces the need (still best practice) for frequent water changes.

Not sure if this makes a difference to you or anything, but remember that when you are successful with whatever decision you make, you can always grow corals and sell them to offset cost, it's work, but I know local people that do it all the time. Invest in a couple expensive frags, and grow them out, frag them, and resell, some local friends have completely offset the cost of the hobby doing this. If you find a way to grow chaeto, it sells pretty well I think and a lot of online retailers were out of it for awhile..

 

[Reef.]

What light could work on a 20g and a 55g reef tank? You would need at least double the light on a 55g, if not more.

a Radion XR15.

 

[Acros]

a Radion XR15.

Are you saying that a single XR15 can cover both a 20g (2ft long) and a 55g (4ft long)?

 

[JSkeleton]

you would likely be using the same light for either tank, so same cost, same for the return, one added powerhead is not worth mentioning, with a smaller tank, you mainly use water changes to remove nutrients, bigger tanks you have more tools so could get away with less water changes, for a nano, imo it would be a long time and a mature tank before you could get away with only a 10% water change, a bigger tank you would get there sooner.

Carbon you can change every 6 months or 9:if your water is low in tds, resin every 3-4 months, this is only an estimate, each setup is different.

The only big difference in cost I can see is heating, and that depends on your room temp, worse case 200w for the 55g on 24/7 (which is very unlikely) , if a unit of electric is 0.17cent that would be around $25 a month, for the 20g, around half that cost, if your home is heated to around 20c then your heater would likely only be on half the time so half the cost, $12 vs $6.

I think you need to think what equipment you will be using for both tanks, then consider if the cost will be significantly more, as a tank that is twice the size if not necessarily twice the cost.

Hmm great points here!

Well that's the question(s) I'd have. For the 55g how often would water changes need to be and how much?
I do not have a sump or protein skimmer. I have just an AquaClear 70 HOB Filter + a 30 gallon HOB Filter cause I was told the AquaClear 70 wasn't enough(?), 2 Sicce Nano Stream 530gph powerheads, and my current plans for now is to start with 2 Clowns and a cleanup crew of a few Trochus + Nassarius, Skunk Cleaner Shrimp and maybe add a Royal Gramma in a couple months, beyond that no idea.

TDS right now out of tap is 70ppm, my filter is getting 4 but I have no DI on it and I may need a different Carbon that filters Chloramines to bring it down from 4 to 3 or maybe even 2ppm.

Our house is usually kept around 22-23C both Summer and Winter.

That's the thing, I don't really know what equipment I NEED, because it seems like everyone says something different on what you NEED lol.

 

[JSkeleton]

It's up to you. My feelings about going sumpless are mostly related to previous issues I've had. I tried a 29 gal with a hang on back filter, ended poorly. I have a Fluval Flex 32.5 Marine AIO that is going OK, but there is limited room for things like skimmers and no room for a refugium big enough to make a difference, so the maintenance is actually more expensive because I need more water changes, and buy more things like chemipure blue to do the job that would partially be done by growing chaeto.

So basically what I personally found is more expensive upfront cost reduces the overall maintenance costs, and part of that is because having a sump adds a ton of filtration that reduces the need (still best practice) for frequent water changes.

Not sure if this makes a difference to you or anything, but remember that when you are successful with whatever decision you make, you can always grow corals and sell them to offset cost, it's work, but I know local people that do it all the time. Invest in a couple expensive frags, and grow them out, frag them, and resell, some local friends have completely offset the cost of the hobby doing this. If you find a way to grow chaeto, it sells pretty well I think and a lot of online retailers were out of it for awhile..

Oh, hmm. So in my setup I'd need chemipure most likely too? Or depends what I'm stocking? And without a sump, what are we talking for water changes? Like 10-15% every week?

That is an interesting point about Corals. I was gonna go FOWLR at least for now, but if it's simple enough to grow corals and sell them off, then that might be a cool option!

 

[Reef.]

Are you saying that a single XR15 can cover both a 20g (2ft long) and a 55g (4ft long)?

Have the dimensions been given?

 

[averagesteve]

Oh, hmm. So in my setup I'd need chemipure most likely too? Or depends what I'm stocking? And without a sump, what are we talking for water changes? Like 10-15% every week?

That is an interesting point about Corals. I was gonna go FOWLR at least for now, but if it's simple enough to grow corals and sell them off, then that might be a cool option!

Chemipure is just like a fancy carbon media that filters out some nitrates and phosphates and other things you don't really want in there. It's helpful, you can throw it right in your HOB in place of plain carbon, 10% water change weekly is pretty standard recommendation.

Also I saw your other reply about what you actually NEED, and really the only things that are absolutely 100% required are a way to keep the water temperature where it should be (heater and or chiller), and a way to promote oxygen exchange in the water, so any filtration/way to break surface tension.

Other than that, a test kit is highly recommended but I guess not technically required. RO/DI water highly recommended, but you can probably get away with dechlorinated tap water if you really want to, though results may vary.

 

[Acros]

Have the dimensions been given?

That is a big assumption to make that they are both similar in length or width.

@JSkeleton what are the dimensions of both tanks? I am curious myself.

 

[JSkeleton]

Chemipure is just like a fancy carbon media that filters out some nitrates and phosphates and other things you don't really want in there. It's helpful, you can throw it right in your HOB in place of plain carbon, 10% water change weekly is pretty standard recommendation.

Also I saw your other reply about what you actually NEED, and really the only things that are absolutely 100% required are a way to keep the water temperature where it should be (heater and or chiller), and a way to promote oxygen exchange in the water, so any filtration/way to break surface tension.

Other than that, a test kit is highly recommended but I guess not technically required. RO/DI water highly recommended, but you can probably get away with dechlorinated tap water if you really want to, though results may vary.

Oh, gotcha! So Chemipure is like a better carbon that does more I guess? Normal Carbon isn't sufficient?

Ah okay, so even with my setup 10% weekly or more without sump/skimmer?

Okay, so do I even need TWO HOB filters then? xD

I have an RODI Unit atm, but thinking of getting the bigger one if it lasts longer, idk.

 

[JSkeleton]

That is a big assumption to make that they are both similar in length or width.

@JSkeleton what are the dimensions of both tanks? I am curious myself.

I know that the 20 is a standard 20, off the top of my head I would say something like 24x12?

The 55 is 48x13x20.

 

[averagesteve]

Oh, gotcha! So Chemipure is like a better carbon that does more I guess? Normal Carbon isn't sufficient?

Ah okay, so even with my setup 10% weekly or more without sump/skimmer?

Okay, so do I even need TWO HOB filters then? xD

I have an RODI Unit atm, but thinking of getting the bigger one if it lasts longer, idk.

Yeah Chemipure is just fancy carbon, someone correct me if I'm wrong on that. Fish only though you probably don't need it, I'd at least run carbon though. You can also check out Seachem Purigen which is another type of filter media that is rechargeable, it turns dark when it's "full" and then you can soak in a bleach/water mixture for 24 hours and reuse it.

I have no idea, a guy that I bought some stuff off of last Friday has downsized to a 40 gal breeder with two AquaClear HOB filters, one at each corner (not sure the size, but they weren't that big...) and his tank was crystal clear with healthy looking corals and a few small fish + an anemone. Not sure what his maintenance schedule is like, but it's definitely possible to do without all the gear, I just personally couldn't do it.

 

[Hairyteeth]

I mean with dimensions given, I would lean towards the 55 gallon, I think you’ll have more options for livestock….
With Fowlr tank it should be pretty minimal as far as gear needs, like anything you can always go hog wild but I think the idea, back To the beginning is to spend less.
What I would do is use your 20 gallon for a qt tank, and start running the 55 in… maybe look at one of those aio chambers you can drop in there!

 

[Reef.]

That is a big assumption to make that they are both similar in length or width.

@JSkeleton what are the dimensions of both tanks? I am curious myself.

I’m sure the op can take my advice and tailor it to his setup.
I don’t know the op’s setup, my advice was mainly to give the op a few things to consider.