How many fish can I add at once?

[CLYRIC]

I have a 55 gallon tank that just finished its nitrogen cycle. I am planning to add 7-8 fish as the total amount eventually. I've heard people say to add 1-2 fish every 2 weeks to ease the bioload, but is it still 1-2 fish every 2 weeks for a 55 gallon tank? I was planning on getting 2 clownfish as a starter since they are quire hardy, but is it possible to add more (3 total) at once or is the 2 clownfish more than enough?

Also how long should I wait before adding CUC or a cleaner shrimp? I've seen people add them even before they add the fish, but I've also seen people add them only when they start to see some algae showing.

I'm not in any rush to add the fish, it's just that my LFS is quite far away so I would like to make the least amount of trips possible.

 

[Cthulukelele]

Speed of adding fish is really dictated by the relative increase in bioload. It's not necessarily a flat rate.

What I mean is if you have a tank with no fish and add 2 fish, that's a pretty big change. If you have a tank with 7 fish and add 2 fish, it's still a change but not nearly as intense. I've read that after you've introduced some fish you shouldn't increase your bioload by more than 50% at once

 

[CLYRIC]

Speed of adding fish is really dictated by the relative increase in bioload. It's not necessarily a flat rate.

What I mean is if you have a tank with no fish and add 2 fish, that's a pretty big change. If you have a tank with 7 fish and add 2 fish, it's still a change but not nearly as intense. I've read that after you've introduced some fish you shouldn't increase your bioload by more than 50% at once

Got it thank you! Does CUC or cleaner shrimp count as part of the bioload in this sense? When do you think someone should wait before adding CUC or cleaner shrimp?

 

[Mr. Mojo Rising]

Agree with above, the first fishes are the biggest shock to the system. I would get 2 fish to start, 3 if you really want, and a CUC (they don't really add bioload), and I would suggest to be content for several weeks up to a month, let the system adjust.

 

[Cthulukelele]

Got it thank you! Does CUC or cleaner shrimp count as part of the bioload in this sense? When do you think someone should wait before adding CUC or cleaner shrimp?

Most people don't consider things you aren't actively feeding bioload.

Meaning if you don't change feeding habits because the shrimp/snails are just there to clean up and not spot fed by you it's not really new bioload.

If you ARE spot feeding your shrimp or adding nori for your cleanup crew then they are actively adding to your bioload.

 

[davidcalgary29]

I have a 55 gallon tank that just finished its nitrogen cycle. I am planning to add 7-8 fish as the total amount eventually. I've heard people say to add 1-2 fish every 2 weeks to ease the bioload, but is it still 1-2 fish every 2 weeks for a 55 gallon tank? I was planning on getting 2 clownfish as a starter since they are quire hardy, but is it possible to add more (3 total) at once or is the 2 clownfish more than enough?

Also how long should I wait before adding CUC or a cleaner shrimp? I've seen people add them even before they add the fish, but I've also seen people add them only when they start to see some algae showing.

I'm not in any rush to add the fish, it's just that my LFS is quite far away so I would like to make the least amount of trips possible.

I think that there are a number of issues to consider here about stocking that are separate from your primary question about metabolizing fish waste.

First, how much aquascape do you have, and what does your nutrient export system look like? In very general terms, larger amounts of live rock will support larger microbial colonies which, in turn, will metabolize your fishes' waste products more quickly and efficiently. This is particularly important in new tanks. A large amount of live rock could, therefore, allow you to introduce more fish at once. But that doesn't mean that you should do this.

Second, you shouldn't add fish at all into a new tank without at least quarantining them first. Many people have lost their entire tanks by adding one ill-fated purchase directly into their display. It's far easier to keep a disease out of your tank than treating your tank after a breakout has occurred.

Third, you should probably make a stocking list now and determine what order you'd like to follow for stocking. Some territorial, aggressive picks should be added last; some others should be added first.

Finally, do not get clowns just because they're "hardy". Clownfish often bring their own hostilities and aggression to a tank, and the last thing that you want is something that will go after your hands every time you reach into your tank. I'm sure clowns are rewarding to people who really like them, but there really are far better choices for a community reef tank.

 

[mike550]

I think starting with two clowns is good. Then see how your tank reacts in terms of nitrates and phosphates. I’m guessing you won’t see a change on 55G. Once you decide it’s stable add a few more. Same thing. See if anything changes and then stabilize. Keep going. I have a 120 and have added 3 fish at a time without issue. Definitely keep the tank dark when introducing them. Id even go a second day in the dark or I’ve heard some people with fancy lights (haha) run acclimate mode for a few days.

 

[larryl]

Personally I would add one at a time, it has always worked for me through out the years. Give the tank time to adjust, you will glad you did.

 

[danenelsen]

I would say don't add more than the 2 clowns at first. Then I would a another every 2 weeks minimum. Closer to 3 would be better in my opinion.

 

[CLYRIC]

I think that there are a number of issues to consider here about stocking that are separate from your primary question about metabolizing fish waste.

First, how much aquascape do you have, and what does your nutrient export system look like? In very general terms, larger amounts of live rock will support larger microbial colonies which, in turn, will metabolize your fishes' waste products more quickly and efficiently. This is particularly important in new tanks. A large amount of live rock could, therefore, allow you to introduce more fish at once. But that doesn't mean that you should do this.

Second, you shouldn't add fish at all into a new tank without at least quarantining them first. Many people have lost their entire tanks by adding one ill-fated purchase directly into their display. It's far easier to keep a disease out of your tank than treating your tank after a breakout has occurred.

Third, you should probably make a stocking list now and determine what order you'd like to follow for stocking. Some territorial, aggressive picks should be added last; some others should be added first.

Finally, do not get clowns just because they're "hardy". Clownfish often bring their own hostilities and aggression to a tank, and the last thing that you want is something that will go after your hands every time you reach into your tank. I'm sure clowns are rewarding to people who really like them, but there really are far better choices for a community reef tank.

1) My aquascape looks like this (picture below). I am currently running a protein skimmer (meant for 100 gallons) and aquaclear 70 HOB filter (meant for 40-70 gallons).

2) I thought it would be fine to add the first fish into the new tank without any quarantine, but then quarantine the other fish that will be added. Should I quarantine the first fish that's going to be added?

3) I do have a stocking list (2 clownfish, 1 hector's goby (will be added when sandbed is established), 1 splendid dottyback, 1 banggai cardinal, 1 red firefish, 1 royal gramma) If I were to start adding fish that's the least territorial first, should I start with the red firefish, royal gramma, or should I start with the banggai cardinal (since I'm only planning on keeping 1).

4) Yea I did thought about it, but I do really like clownfish and would like them to be in my first tank.

 

[Nemo&Friends]

You can add a few CUC at the same time than your fish. As far as clown fish is concerned, some species are a lot more aggressive than others. If you just put the ocellaris, you can start with them, if you plan on maroon clowns, I would place them last. In that case, I would start by firefish and cardinal. I usually add 2 fish at a time, because it diffuse a little the aggression. Establish fish will have 2 targets instead of one.

 

[davidcalgary29]

I added my CUC first and macroalgae first, and then added my first fish after a couple of months. Many people find it very difficult to quarantine inverts, and this is a great way of ensuring that you're not bringing anything into your tank when you acquire your CUC.

Yes, I would quarantine every single fish that you put into your display. You don't necessarily have to treat them, but you should at least observe them for a period of time. I think that this is a necessity for every new tank.

Why the splendid dottyback and cardinal? Captive-bred orchid dottybacks are gorgeous and hardy, and are among the most mild-mannered dottybacks, and are lovely in a community tank. Cardinals are pretty static -- do you want a fish that just sort of floats around?

Firefish are jumpers. I had one that jumped out of a 1/2 cm gap between my mesh lid and my IM40 (I had to let a cord through), and it went carpet surfing. I have one now in my RSM250, but that has a solid, heavy plastic canopy. Tight-fitting canopies really are a must for these streamlined fish.

 

[CLYRIC]

I added my CUC first and macroalgae first, and then added my first fish after a couple of months. Many people find it very difficult to quarantine inverts, and this is a great way of ensuring that you're not bringing anything into your tank when you acquire your CUC.

Yes, I would quarantine every single fish that you put into your display. You don't necessarily have to treat them, but you should at least observe them for a period of time. I think that this is a necessity for every new tank.

Why the splendid dottyback and cardinal? Captive-bred orchid dottybacks are gorgeous and hardy, and are among the most mild-mannered dottybacks, and are lovely in a community tank. Cardinals are pretty static -- do you want a fish that just sort of floats around?

Firefish are jumpers. I had one that jumped out of a 1/2 cm gap between my mesh lid and my IM40 (I had to let a cord through), and it went carpet surfing. I have one now in my RSM250, but that has a solid, heavy plastic canopy. Tight-fitting canopies really are a must for these streamlined fish.

Ok got it, thank you for the advice!

I wanted a splendid dottyback because I like its colors and it's something that I don't see everyday, I did thought about getting an orchid dottyback instead, but since I'll also be getting a royal gramma, I decided not to beacuse they're both kinda similar in terms of color, so I wanted something different.

I like the way banggai cardinals look and their static behavior, I think it brings a new "uniqueness" that is different from all the other fish that just zooms everywhere.

Your firefish managed to jump through a 1/2 cm gap?? I'll probably secure the gap in my lid (for the cord) by supergluing extra mesh on top of the gaps. Thanks for the advice!