How to plumb a dual corner 125

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I am in the process of setting up a 125, and I’m a bit conflicted.

Should I have a dual herbie setup in each corner and then drill holes in the back pane for my return lines? Il be running dusk return pumps.

Or should one side of the 1” and 75” serve as a herbie and the other side have dual return pipes?

Or is there a third option I’m not considering?
 
Given that you’ve got 3/4” bulkhead holes in both overflows, I’d set this tank up with dual herbie drains, with the 3/4” being the primaries, and the 1” being the emergencies!

This yields around 1,200-1,400GPH maximum drain rate… returns can just be plumbed up over the back rim of the tank using PVC if you want to avoid drilling any additional holes that aren’t strictly necessary!
 
Given that you’ve got 3/4” bulkhead holes in both overflows, I’d set this tank up with dual herbie drains, with the 3/4” being the primaries, and the 1” being the emergencies!
Why do the two small holes in addition to restriction from valves as main drains?
returns can just be plumbed up over the back rim of the tank using PVC
This is what I was kinda trying to avoid… in my current tank I’m running that over the back and herbie setup and I don’t like the salt creep I get
if you want to avoid drilling any additional holes that aren’t strictly necessary!
This too… drilling is freighting


I feel like I’m 90% leaning towards herbie one side and either two returns or a split bean on the other, using a single return and an E on that side
 
Why do the two small holes in addition to restriction from valves as main drains?
I’m sorry? I don’t follow!


I feel like I’m 90% leaning towards herbie one side and either two returns or a split bean on the other, using a single return and an E on that side
This is probably the best-bet, if you don’t want to have a pipe over the rim!

Use 3/4” bulkheads for primary drain and return, 1” bulkheads for secondary and emergency… it should still be good for ~650gph, which is enough! (You don’t want to make your backup drains smaller in diameter than your primary drain, hence the layout!)
 
I’m sorry? I don’t follow!
Lol. I meant like the unrestricted 1" for backup and a restricted (gate valve tuned) 3/4" pipe... why use the smaller radius and more restricted pipe as the main drain rather than using as much flow as possible, the 1", and the 3/4" as a backup
Use 3/4” bulkheads for primary drain and return, 1” bulkheads for secondary and emergency… it should still be good for ~650gph, which is enough! (You don’t want to make your backup drains smaller in diameter than your primary drain, hence the layout!)
Same as above... why not do bigger holes for my main purpose? Thats what I'm running right now without an issue.
 
Lol. I meant like the unrestricted 1" for backup and a restricted (gate valve tuned) 3/4" pipe... why use the smaller radius and more restricted pipe as the main drain rather than using as much flow as possible, the 1", and the 3/4" as a backup

Same as above... why not do bigger holes for my main purpose? Thats what I'm running right now without an issue.
Because a complete 1” drain blockage like a snail at high return pump flow rates will overwhelm the smaller 3/4” backup drain, causing a flood!
 
Because a complete 1” drain blockage like a snail at high return pump flow rates will overwhelm the smaller 3/4” backup drain, causing a flood!
If I do end up drilling, at what “ from the corners should my return lines be?
 
If I do end up drilling, at what “ from the corners should my return lines be?
You should first double-check that the rear pane isn’t tempered via polarized glasses, and a phone or laptop/tablet screen (how-to videos are readily available on YouTube!

Are you familiar with glass drilling? If not, there are a few tricks that make it much safer/easier, if you’re curious?

For hole placement, I’ve seen everything from <1.5X glass thickness in distance between hole rim and pane edge, to >2X hole diameter to pane edge!

— ASTM C1048 is standards for holes in tempered glass; there is no hard set of standards for non-tempered glass, so tempered rules are usually followed!

— This said, for your tank, assuming it’s 10mm (~3/8”) thick glass; ~2.5” between pane corner and hole rim is dead-minimum! I’d feel most comfortable with a return hole drilled at least 3” from pane corner (rim to corner), and 1.5X the hole diameter between hole rim and pane edge!
 
Are you familiar with glass drilling? If not, there are a few tricks that make it much safer/easier, if you’re curious?
Any tips appreciated 🙃
This said, for your tank, assuming it’s 10mm (~3/8”) thick glass; ~2.5” between pane corner and hole rim is dead-minimum! I’d feel most comfortable with a return hole drilled at least 3” from pane corner (rim to corner), and 1.5X the hole diameter between hole rim and pane edge!
Sorry, bad wording on my part. I meant like is there anything that says I should put the returns closer to the middle (like at 34 n 40, or something of the like) or is it better to put the return pipes closer to the drains/ the corners?
 
Any tips appreciated 🙃

Well, there’s a lot to it… I’ve spent several hours around here typing out the nuances, but here are some key points:

Lay the tank on its side so you’re drilling straight down from the outside; you use little to no drill feed pressure, letting gravity do most of the work! (Also, you’re cutting wet so a flat surface is easier to keep water on!)

— use a hole saw guide, a piece of rigid material with a hole equal in diameter to the diamond hole saw… this is clamped in place on the tank to keep the diamond hole saw from wandering from the exact spot you want it to start grinding a hole!

— use water liberally, I like to just set up outside and run a garden hose at a trickle across my work area to cool the glass and hole saw as I grind through… the running water also works well to evacuate the glass slurry from the cut!

— use your drill’s clutch! That is, most modern drills have a ring around the drill body up by the chuck with numbers on it, some also have symbols on a second ring (you want the screw symbol selected if applicable)… the numbers on the ring correspond to foot pounds of torque before clutch slip… I like to start around 5-7lbs on the clutch, and bump up to 10-12lbs max as the cut continues! (This clutch system is designed to make the drill head stop spinning, even if the motor is spinning… the clutch slips at your preset torque if you bind up the hole saw inside the glass, preventing you from breaking said glass!)

— this will likely take at least 10mins per-hole, you’re mechanically grinding through glass in a circle; like a fancy piece of sandpaper spinning very fast! I know I spent over 45 mins on my first hole in 1/2” glass… be patient, and don’t get cocky after you complete the first hole successfully!

— set up a bin or a bucket of water directly underneath your target hole location; when you finish your glass hole and the hole saw finally pierces through the inner glass face, a round “slug” of glass will fall out of the center of the hole saw! The container of water is there to catch this glass slug before it breaks your tank!

Sorry, bad wording on my part. I meant like is there anything that says I should put the returns closer to the middle (like at 34 n 40, or something of the like) or is it better to put the return pipes closer to the drains/ the corners?
Ah! There’s no reason you can’t do that, as long as you do keep the holes around 6” apart! (Synergy reef certainly pulls it off with the ~2.5” pair of holes for the shadow overflow!)

Return placement is personal preference! Wherever they go, I recommend investing in quality bulkheads!

— you’re stuck with the hole diameters you have in the bottom pane, but you can make the return holes any size…

— I’m very partial to Hayward BFAS series bulkheads, personally! They require a larger hole diameter than standard bulkheads for equivalently plumbing size, but are substantially better made than any other option I’ve used so-far! (Get them in 3/4” NPT [threaded], as cemented socket bulkheads are one-time use!)
 
Can anyone comment on how to do a roller mat while using a dual herbie setup?
 
@UncommonSense , do you have any tips for instaling the new overflow?
It is something similiar to this.
I know you suggested making one out of glass sheets and Plexiglass overtop, but this just seems simpler/easier, they're 40 each.

Should I just bead silicone along the edge on the outside and inside? or is there another procedure to make sure its sealed, especially since acrylic + glass + silicone isnt always the best...

Thanks!
 

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@UncommonSense , do you have any tips for instaling the new overflow?
It is something similiar to this.
I know you suggested making one out of glass sheets and Plexiglass overtop, but this just seems simpler/easier, they're 40 each.

Should I just bead silicone along the edge on the outside and inside? or is there another procedure to make sure its sealed, especially since acrylic + glass + silicone isnt always the best...

Thanks!
Ah! These might be a bit difficult to fit into corners… maybe if you cut one short side off each?

Typically, acrylic overflow boxes are silicones in, just like glass… silicone is typically applied to the edges of the overflow box which contact the tank wall/bottom, then the overflow is carefully placed in the tank!
 
Ah! These might be a bit difficult to fit into corners… maybe if you cut one short side off each?
Maybe a bit hard to tell but all three are different.... one is a left corner the other is a not corner and the last is a right corner 🙃
Typically, acrylic overflow boxes are silicones in, just like glass… silicone is typically applied to the edges of the overflow box which contact the tank wall/bottom, then the overflow is carefully placed in the tank!
Thanks!
Should I put the silicone onto the overflow prior to putting into tank?
or would be better to hold it up in place and run the bead
 
Maybe a bit hard to tell but all three are different.... one is a left corner the other is a not corner and the last is a right corner 🙃
Ah! I see that now… Sorry, still waking up over here!


Thanks!
Should I put the silicone onto the overflow prior to putting into tank?
or would be better to hold it up in place and run the bead
Put it on the overflow’s edges then place the overflow; you want the edge of the material to be bonded to the tank wall, vs. just laying beads on the exterior of those joints!
 

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