How to Reduce DI Resin Consumtion?

[zipperbaum]

also a booster pump made a big difference from the get go.

 

[ihavecrabs]

pH of 7.6 right out of the tap. I'll update with the reading in 24ish hours.

pH of 8.6 now. Thoughts?

 

[22bfan]

Seems like a bit of CO2 off gassing. Aerating before the DI stage may help extend its life. CO2 kills the resin pretty quickly even if there isn't much TDS.

 

[ihavecrabs]

pH of 8.6 now. Thoughts?

@Randy Holmes-Farley thoughts on this pH test result?

Tap water went from 7.6 to 8.6 pH in 24 hours.

 

[lacrosseboss18]

You guys have this right before the DI section? Is this instead of the RO membrane flush valve?

What I do to save DI is to divert the first five minutes of start-up to waste. When you start a DI system, you get break-through TDS that will accelerate DI consumption if not sent to waste. BRS sells a three way that I use to do this.

I do this also. Helps quite a bit

Exactly what I do and what I have.

 

[redfishbluefish]

You guys have this right before the DI section? Is this instead of the RO membrane flush valve?

Yes, this diverter valve goes between the membrane and DI canister. I also have a membrane flush kit, but the jury is out on whether or not a membrane flush does anything. I still do it....and by the way, I still have my initial membrane from 2007.

 

[jnvd3b]

@Randy homles-Farley thoughts on this pH test result?

Tap water went from 7.6 to 8.6 pH in 24 hours.

I think you meant
@Randy Holmes-Farley

 

[lacrosseboss18]

Yes, this diverter valve goes between the membrane and DI canister. I also have a membrane flush kit, but the jury is out on whether or not a membrane flush does anything. I still do it....and by the way, I still have my initial membrane from 2007.

Thanks

 

[AquaFX-PB]

Some great answers and info in here for sure -
1) Make your water in large batches (easy)
2) I see you have 80 PSI (great) - (Pressure is a GREAT factor for keeping DI going, less TDS out of the membrane = longer lasting DI)
3) Use a TDS meter to assess your DI as exhausted or not. ( you may chew thru the color change and still be at zero for a few hundred gallons more)
4) Chloramines??? - If you have Chloramines in your water, and you're not treating for it via carbon. You're going to be burning up that DI much faster than you want to. Find out -
5) Eliminate TDS creep (sure this is great, but is pretty darn negligible if you adhere to #1 and make large batches of water) - of course, sometimes you dont need large batches, so then the valve makes more sense to use.
(we use a simple 1/4 QC 'T' with a 1/4 QC Ball valve.. but anything will work.).. but whatever you do try to make sure you system is NOT turning on and off constantly.

DI works on "Ion Exchange" - the less ions you give it the longer it will last. period.
Its imperative to know the TDS out of the RO membrane to give an expectancy to the DI's life. I know that at 5ppm no chloramines (no dissolved gases) - a color change DI filter 'should' typically last about 1000 Gallons.. if you give him 20 ppm, the life will be cut in 1/4 (250 gallons) - so "What you're feeding the DI" is the ultimate determinate to DI life. Hope this helps a little? :)