How would you plumb this?

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I bought a custom waterbox 2nd hand that didn't include the plumbing. How would you guys go about plumbing this? It's a 130g display
20250511_223327.jpg
 
Assuming 3-4ft of head loss on a 1,200GPH pump; most submersible style pumps will have lost 25-33% of their claimed flow rate when measured; this means you can still barely squeak by with 3/4” hard plumbing for the pump return side, then reduce to 2X 1/2” bulkheads for the loc-line returns!
This is true!
I guess as long as it is adjustable then fine, but you'll need to adjust down accordingly. You dont want all your sump pumped into the tank. You also dont want or need that kind of flow through the sump.
 
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This is true!
I guess as long as it is adjustable then fine, but you'll need to adjust down accordingly. You dont want all your sump pumped into the tank. You also dont want or need that kind of flow through the sump.
It depends on the size of the system, really! I’m pushing around 1,200GPH (measured) through the 75g sump on my 180g FW display; thinking about upgrading to closer to 1,500-1,800GPH, with four return nozzles, instead of two! (Peninsula style overflow)
 
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It depends on the size of the system, really! I’m pushing around 1,200GPH (measured) through the 75g sump on my 180g FW display; thinking about upgrading to closer to 1,500-1,800GPH, with four return nozzles, instead of two! (Peninsula style overflow)
I just said 1200gph because it's slightly less than the typical rule of thumb of 10x turnover for my 130g tank.
 
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I just said 1200gph because it's slightly less than the typical rule of thumb of 10x turnover for my 130g tank.
1,200 gph is acceptable for a tank that size given that there are multiple return nozzles! (You can also add a Y fitting to loc-line to double the nozzle count; thus halving less water velocity out of each nozzle if desired!)

Consider looking into eductor nozzles, and modified eductors called “random flow generators” (RFGs)!
 
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1,200 gph is acceptable for a tank that size given that there are multiple return nozzles! (You can also add a Y fitting to loc-line to double the nozzle count; thus halving less water velocity out of each nozzle if desired!)

Consider looking into eductor nozzles, and modified eductors called “random flow generators” (RFGs)!
I'll look into those once I figure out my main plumbing. Lol
 
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I just said 1200gph because it's slightly less than the typical rule of thumb of 10x turnover for my 130g tank.
That tank is 130g!!! yeah ok itll be fine. I just assumed it was much smaller with the design on the overflow and hole sizes. 10x is in the realm of fine not needed but fine. I will still stick to 4-5x for the sump and rest through internal pumps depending on what corals you keep 40-100x or more.
 
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It depends on the size of the system, really! I’m pushing around 1,200GPH (measured) through the 75g sump on my 180g FW display; thinking about upgrading to closer to 1,500-1,800GPH, with four return nozzles, instead of two! (Peninsula style overflow)
Yeah the 180g I am setting up will run a Jebao 10000 or 15000 cant remember which it was but adjustable. Sump is 90g full but it wont be full.
 
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Ya, I've got a 6500
I run a few of the jebaos. I have 2 6500 running my 125g stacked tanks. I think my reef is a 6000. 18000 on my 300g pond. That 10000/15000 ran the pond for a short time until I upgraded which is why I dont remember. These pumps work for the money and are pretty powerful. I dont even have the 125s on full and its overhead sumps on a "shelf" 8' off the floor. One 125 is 6" off the floor and the other sits above it about 4' off the floor.
 
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I bought a custom waterbox 2nd hand that didn't include the plumbing. How would you guys go about plumbing this? It's a 130g display
20250511_223327.jpg
ThIs is a tough one because if this is a waterbox tank, than those hole sizes may no match up with standard plumbing bulkhead sizes, since they use metric plumbing


Assuming your dimensions are the size of the holes, then I think @UncommonSense is correct, in terms of the size bulkheads you can use.

Looks like you’re set up to have two return plumbing bulkheads through the overflow box, into tank… these would typically have ~6” of loc line going into the tank, and a nozzle off each.

The holes in the bottom of the box are for a Herbie drain system, plus return!

Your return plumbing bulkheads through the 1..25” hole in the bottom of the tank, tees to both 1.25” bulkheads through overflow into tank.

Your two drains bulkhead through the two 1.5” holes in the bottom of the tank

Looks like you can only get 1/2” return, and a 3/4” drain (X2) into those holes, if you use BRS brand ABS bulkheads…

IMG_6563.png
IMG_6564.png


Form there I would suggest some Random Flow Generator Nozzles on the return lines.


For the bulkheads on the back glass, going into the the tank, I would suggest you go with Slip-fit bulkheads. That way you can use our Multidapter fittings that will allow you to attach 1/2in Loc-Line directly to the bulkhead or upsize it to 3/4ih Loc-Line

the 2025-Series Multidapter will fit 1/2in Bulkheads

1747075747781.png
1747075767495.png


The 2025-050 is available separately or in our 1/2in RFG Pre-Configure Flow kit
https://vividcreativeaquatics.com/shop/1-2in-random-flow-generator-flow-kit-1-2-flex-series-rfg/

the 2025-075 Multidapter which can upsize a 1/2in bulkhead to 3/4in loc-line, is available separately
https://vividcreativeaquatics.com/shop/multidapter-2025-075-20-25mm-pipe-to-3-4in-loc-line-adapter/
It can be paired with your 3/4in RFG Flow kit,
https://vividcreativeaquatics.com/shop/3-4in-random-flow-generator-flow-kit-3-4-flex-series-rfg/
or any of our flow kits that start out as 3/4in Loc-Line
https://vividcreativeaquatics.com/shop/ultimate-return-line-upgrade-kit-dual-1-2-flex-series-rfg/https://vividcreativeaquatics.com/shop/ultimate-xl-return-line-upgrade-kit-dual-3-4-flex-series-rfg/
 
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This all has me feeling like throwing in the towel. I know 3/4 drains and a 1/2 return is way too small for this tank. But I can't find an alternative.
 
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This all has me feeling like throwing in the towel. I know 3/4 drains and a 1/2 return is way too small for this tank. But I can't find an alternative.
Oh just look up metric bulkheads, or research some of the nylon/etc bulkhead fittings used primarily in boats!

Edit: BRS brand ABS bulkheads are also listed as being at least slightly thicker than competitors… there is almost certainly an off the shelf bulkhead option you can find elsewhere to fix that problem!
 
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This all has me feeling like throwing in the towel. I know 3/4 drains and a 1/2 return is way too small for this tank. But I can't find an alternative.
Smaller than I would like, yes. Still functional and usable though. In fact like I stated above "we" typically put too much flow through the sump making a lot of our equipment and algae filters less than what they should be. As long as in tank flow is adequate and keeps detritus suspended until its sent into the "filter" or grabbed by corals it doesnt matter what the flow through the sump is. Somewhere in the 4x is a very good number. Now finding bulkheads may not be the easiest but should still be doable. High flow through the sump does 1 thing and thats related to particulates, it keeps them from being in the tank in view. Sure it can make your tank look clear but honestly if those particulates are suspended in the tank they become coral food. Whether its leftover food or fish poop its coral chow. You can run a particulate filter in tank if you desire or use coral snow to help clear up some of the small particulate if you can not look at a tank with natural floating food sources. I dont run any mechanical filter, well a skimmer but no socks or floss or roller mat that stuff is gold why take it away. I allow it to circulate through the system to feed the inhabitants. That stuff caught in a sock or floss just rots adding ammonia, phosphate and nitrate to the system unless you are like a roller mat and remove it from the water but lets be honest who does that? Better the particles are used by someone on the reef be it coral or other invert.
 
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