Discussion in 'New to Saltwater & Reef Aquariums? Post Here' started by Noahp, Nov 6, 2011.
You have all that livestock in a 50g tank?
Like a boss for a year now. When my eel grows up he will balance it out lol
I have developed an algae problem due to the fact that I was having a lighting issue. Well now that I have the lighting issue where I think it needs to be I want to get rid of the algae that developed during my lighting learning experience. I've heard very good things about dosing with H2O2.
My question is will the proper dosing harm my two beautiful birdsnest corals or either of my two anemones? I also have a couple chalices, mushrooms, zoas, torch corals, hammer corals, ploys, and a Duncan. Should the H2O2 be safe for these? Thanks in advance. Allen
In the large peroxide threads it is shown that no anemones have been lost but they get mad and close up when it's dosed many times. They dislike it
Birds nest corals are shown tolerant in the threads to a dose of one mil per ten gallons volume. Some can take more, thats just a working safe dose where many targets happen to also comply. All the other corals listed are tolerant of the dose.
Those big threads also show that if you truly want the algae gone and are willing to do work, don't dump peroxide into the water. That mode is for avoiding work
To win, take out one bad test rock from up top that was easy to remove, even if it has corals on it we are working outside the tank. In the air, use a steak knife to score off the algae, all of it, delicately working around the base of the corals like a dentist. Damage some of the attachment surfaces, scrape hard. Make the test rock free of algae this way and be rinsing it off well using saltwater in the sink. When the test rock is 100% free of algae, go back over the cleaned areas with peroxide to burn off leftovers, let it soak a few mins in the air. Rinse and put rock back in tank and you'll see how well the algae stays gone if the lighting is blue and not too white to regrow it.
Dosing the tank stresses everything but we know the tolerable amounts via repetition from the big dosing threads. Working like a doctor outside the tank is immediate algae compliance, no peroxide touching nontargets, and it's the ideal method in 2017 for peroxide dosing a tank. Post pics if you can lets see details
Here's one of the big threads, with birds nest feedback and pics before you dose yours
First time I saw Hydrogen Peroxide connected to aquaria was in the earlier 80: thies. At a large aquarium exhibition a magical thing named söchting oxydator was displayed. We laugh – because how could a ceramic pot and some chemicals oxygenate an aquarium – and also fight bacteria, parasites and algae. But I was wrong – the thing actually works. And it is one of the most genius solution of dosing I ever has seen. In a plastic container - with a tiny hole in the bottom – peroxide is stored. In the container – there is a small piece/pieces of a ceramic that catalyst the breakdown of hydrogen peroxide to oxygen atoms and water. The oxygen atoms directly form oxygen gas that rise to the top of the plastic container. The gas expand and slowly press hydrogen peroxide through the tinny hole. The plastic container is placed in a pot of the same ceramic as the catalyst. The peroxide rise between the plastic container and the ceramic pot and will be breakdown to hydrogen atoms and water. Some atoms for the gas O2 some will directly attack organic matter and oxidize this directly. To hinder the plastic container to rise when it contain more and more oxygen gas – a weight of the same ceramic is placed at the top (some of the models)
In my new aquaria – see my build thread - I use this method instead of ozone or active carbon in order to get rid of the organic yellow tint you easily get in a saltwater aquaria. It´s also an oxygen reserve if I get a power cut for a prolonged period. Normally I have it in my sump in an area with the flow of 2 500 litres/hour. At a power cut – I move it to a display tank. The dosing rate depends on how many pieces of ceramic I use in the plastic container. For the moment I dose around 175 ml 6 % non-stabilized H2O2 a month for 350 l of water. My aquaria is rather algae free (but I do not think the peroxide is the whole truth for this – there is a large clean-up crew also) and the water is crystal clear.
fully agreed, they're amazing in that oxydators have no known sensitives
not a single loss ive ever heard can be attributed to an od. the way they meter out the dose is acceptable to all, yet its strong enough for the oxidation to force out many species like cyano and spirulina and microalgae... possibly even early stage dinos before full infestation and algae bits floating about. photosynthetic organisms are trying to expel oxygen as both an irritant and a poison from a typical lighted day's running...hitting them again with doses of oxygen in my guess likely backs up free radical expulsion and combined with the bright lighting we ran in treated tanks it seems like a fair working mechanism to me for peroxide dosed straight or by meter
photosynthetic organisms showed the most impact in our threads, not the pods. certainly not any fish, we don't even have any fish listed as sensitives the dosing gamut was covered a few years across forums and TroyLee has a nice one here at R2R as well
straight peroxide kills fireworms like mad which is a cycling risk in some tanks depending on populations, and id estimate 80% of any tanks that have lysmata cleaners using any form of direct peroxide will have losses. cleaner shrimp are somehow the weakest organism we found among all the anecdotes collected. the oxydator will kill none of these and they're best used not as cleanup tools but as preventatives. install an OD before any invasions come not in reaction is my best offer.
something about the light driven chain + peroxide zaps a huge portion of oxygen producers in a given system
straight peroxide dosing threads show no widespread loss to the oxygen consumers like we do in plant systems, that was always a neat alignment that came about no matter which forum the new threads would appear on
on youtube especially in German videos the OD are used in sensitive bee shrimp tanks freshwater, crystal reds are wimps for sure and its amazing they crawl all over the od and thrive in a clean oligotrophic environment. it would also be undoubted that sludge-digesting aerobic bacteria will be boosted by oxygen injection below a toxicity threshold/I cannot think of one bad aspect of the od other than cost and space when nano keepers are considering. we deal with bigger skimmers, get a sump is a possibility.
I would never run a tank without at least one now, 2 great posts.
I used it in my tank didn't kill anything didn't her rid of hair either.
+1 Similar to Devon, struggled with hair algae for months. Finally resorted to dosing H2O2. Took about 3 weeks to eliminate with no sign of it returning after stopping the dosing. Lost no livestock and have gone a couple months with no sign of it returning. In fact only have to scrape the glass every 10 days or so.
I have one Lysmata amboinensis, one Stenopus hispidus, one Rhynchocinetes durbanensis and 3 Lysmata wurdemanni and at least 5 species of hermit crabs in my Aquarium - some of the has been in there for 10 month - no problems with the oxydator.
Edit - I forgott two Lysmata debelius
Separate names with a comma.