Hyposalinity

Saaqib_Ansari

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If I do hyposalinity in my main tank which only had fish live rock and sand in it. Is this an issue? Won’t the pods bristle worms etc die? And cause ammonia issues?
 

Timfish

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Some species might survive but most will die and you are correct, will cause ammonia or excess nitrogen issues. Most fish will do fine with hyposalinity, providing SG is greater than .007. Why are you wanting to do this?
 
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Some species might survive but most will die and you are correct, will cause ammonia or excess nitrogen issues. Most fish will do fine with hyposalinity, providing SG is greater than .007. Why are you wanting to do this?
For ich, I was thinking of dropping to 1.008 and keep it there for 4 weeks
 

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You are right. Most (all?) inverts will die. Fish will be fine, and ich will probably be eradicated.

Watch ammonia, as a precaution, but I've done this without causing any issues with bacteria in a display.
 

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For ich, I was thinking of dropping to 1.008 and keep it there for 4 weeks

Bear in mind that there are some strains of ich that are resistant to hyposalinity.

Do you have an ATO? If not doing, hyposalinity can be problematic. If evaporation causes salinity to rise above 1.009 for even a very short time the clock has to start over....and if not recognized will cause a significant chance of the treatment being ineffective.

If you have an average biofilter for your size tank, I doubt any ammonia problems from pods/brittle stars, etc. However if you have a large amount of CUC (snails, shrimp, other inverts) there could be a problem. I would remove all of those you can remove before starting hypo.
 
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Bear in mind that there are some strains of ich that are resistant to hyposalinity.

Do you have an ATO? If not doing, hyposalinity can be problematic. If evaporation causes salinity to rise above 1.009 for even a very short time the clock has to start over....and if not recognized will cause a significant chance of the treatment being ineffective.

If you have an average biofilter for your size tank, I doubt any ammonia problems from pods/brittle stars, etc. However if you have a large amount of CUC (snails, shrimp, other inverts) there could be a problem. I would remove all of those you can remove before starting hypo.
Yeah removed all inverts and CUC just the bristle worms and pods left in the rock work etc have started the treatment today dropped the salinity from 1.025 to 1.015
 
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Guys I’ve put 75L of water RODI into a 55p tank with a 150 sump. My DT tank is still 1.026 and my sump is 1.020 ... how long does it take to mix and how much water am I going to need ??
 
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It’s been around 10 minutes now the tank is 1.025 sump and DT... I did not expect it to take this much fresh RODI what the heck
 

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Guys I’ve put 75L of water RODI into a 55p tank with a 150 sump. My DT tank is still 1.026 and my sump is 1.020 ... how long does it take to mix and how much water am I going to need ??

Your numbers are a bit confusing to me. You've added 75 liters of fresh? What is the volume of your total system?
 

SaltISlife

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Ive done hypo in my main tank 3 times now its a 135 gallon 6ft tank. Took my corals out and shived em into a 60g hexagon (somehow lol) and did hypo for 40-50 days each time and it does work.. fish stop getting ich after day 7 and i never see anymore after that.

But unfortunatly hypo has its negatives. Only some species can handle it. And the ones that do handle it will develope complications over time such as hlle where there heads and skin starts to erode around the head. The fish ard also highely suseptical to lymphocystis in hypo. For some reason lymphocystis loves hypo salinity and ive lost dozens of green chromis to this virus when in hypo and i had tangs get it too. Once taken out of hypo it goes away and the holes in the head heal


So ive never been able to do hypo for more thsn 40-50 days. And EVERYTIME i finish hypo and i have to stop due to lylmphocystis or whatever. And raise salinity. Ich comes back after 3-4 months.

I see a fish have 1 spot. Then over time and time it builds back up in the tank.

This is no different than copper. Copper can only be used for 4 weeks tops. Then you gatta stop and because ich cysts in the sand can survive hypo and copper and they dont hatch for up to 2-3 months then copper and hypo become pointless tmit only kills free swimmers.

The only real way to eliminate ich is to do opper or hypo for 2-4 weeks. In a SEPERATE tank. Then move the fish to another seperate tank and watch them. And leave your main tank empty for at least 76 days.


Due to this whole BS process.. and me spending nearly 1 year ( no joke) of doing hypo for 2-3 months and then copper then blah blah. I finally gave up and decided to just manage ich. Keep aggression down. Keep fish that dont get it badly.. like the hippo tangs or any of the powder brown or blue or related species. I had 5 tangs in my tank. Still have 4 and thr one i got rid of was my powder brown tang. As soon as i got rid of that super spreader ich went away to where i rarely ever see it anymore. Fish like powder browns and so forth get it 24.7 non stop and get it horribly and they can be the fish that just breeds ich to exlopsive puportions

I use a very large 60w uv sterilizer with low flow. And i also use 50 and 20 micron filter pads. Since ich is about 25-100 microns in size.

Its actually proven that diatom filters can filter ich out. So i figured why couldnt 20 micron pads in ny main filters.

I know i wont eliminate ich. I still see it sometimes.. but im frankly done moving 80 corals. Going fallow. Doing copper. Doing hypo and spending 70% of my time reef keeping.. not eveb reefing and instead trying to get rid of a parasite that youll honestly never get rid of.

But hypo is extremely viable if you have a horrible uncontrollable infestation. You can eliminate all free swimmers. And most of the cysts that hatch in 4-6 weeks and save fish that are near death. And then find your cause of the infestation and get rid of it.
 
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Ive done hypo in my main tank 3 times now its a 135 gallon 6ft tank. Took my corals out and shived em into a 60g hexagon (somehow lol) and did hypo for 40-50 days each time and it does work.. fish stop getting ich after day 7 and i never see anymore after that.

But unfortunatly hypo has its negatives. Only some species can handle it. And the ones that do handle it will develope complications over time such as hlle where there heads and skin starts to erode around the head. The fish ard also highely suseptical to lymphocystis in hypo. For some reason lymphocystis loves hypo salinity and ive lost dozens of green chromis to this virus when in hypo and i had tangs get it too. Once taken out of hypo it goes away and the holes in the head heal


So ive never been able to do hypo for more thsn 40-50 days. And EVERYTIME i finish hypo and i have to stop due to lylmphocystis or whatever. And raise salinity. Ich comes back after 3-4 months.

I see a fish have 1 spot. Then over time and time it builds back up in the tank.

This is no different than copper. Copper can only be used for 4 weeks tops. Then you gatta stop and because ich cysts in the sand can survive hypo and copper and they dont hatch for up to 2-3 months then copper and hypo become pointless tmit only kills free swimmers.

The only real way to eliminate ich is to do opper or hypo for 2-4 weeks. In a SEPERATE tank. Then move the fish to another seperate tank and watch them. And leave your main tank empty for at least 76 days.


Due to this whole crap process.. and me spending nearly 1 year ( no joke) of doing hypo for 2-3 months and then copper then blah blah. I finally gave up and decided to just manage ich. Keep aggression down. Keep fish that dont get it badly.. like the hippo tangs or any of the powder brown or blue or related species. I had 5 tangs in my tank. Still have 4 and thr one i got rid of was my powder brown tang. As soon as i got rid of that super spreader ich went away to where i rarely ever see it anymore. Fish like powder browns and so forth get it 24.7 non stop and get it horribly and they can be the fish that just breeds ich to exlopsive puportions

I use a very large 60w uv sterilizer with low flow. And i also use 50 and 20 micron filter pads. Since ich is about 25-100 microns in size.

Its actually proven that diatom filters can filter ich out. So i figured why couldnt 20 micron pads in ny main filters.

I know i wont eliminate ich. I still see it sometimes.. but im frankly done moving 80 corals. Going fallow. Doing copper. Doing hypo and spending 70% of my time reef keeping.. not eveb reefing and instead trying to get rid of a parasite that youll honestly never get rid of.

But hypo is extremely viable if you have a horrible uncontrollable infestation. You can eliminate all free swimmers. And most of the cysts that hatch in 4-6 weeks and save fish that are near death. And then find your cause of the infestation and get rid of it.
Bro I’m in the same boat I’ve been fallow twice copper TTM I’ve done everything but some how my blue tang always gets ich. This time I went for hypo. I’ve never done it before and frankly there’s no way I can be bothered to catch these fish in that tank again. Here’s to hoping the hypo for 4 weeks works
 

Timfish

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If it's only your Blue Tang, Paracanthurus hepatus (aka Regal Tang, aka Hippo Tang, aka . . . :rolleyes: ) are you sure it's ick? They are a unique fish being in a monotypic genus because (as I understand it) of a unique scale structure. I've seen what might initially look like ick on some of mine over the years but it either doesn't stay on ht efish long enough or it stays in the same spot for way longer than it should if it was ick.

Here's a paper by Florida University describing control methods including hyposalinity. And I would reiterate some of the cautions above about watching nutrients.
 
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