I’m just pushing each button, removing wire then pushing wire back in.
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You know it! How many times have I said, 'these guys certainly didn't have an electrician involved in the process!!!'There’s a reason us electricians cuss light designers.
Do you remember which sockets were controlling group 2? I probably could have suggested marking them before opening. Whoops. I would check all connections methodical regardless.How do I know which ballasts control group 2?
This some kind of curing machine?You don’t want to hear this. I’d put money on sockets. Why do I say this? It’s part of what I do. This tunnel:
And these ballasts:
Are all for 106 T5’s. Sockets are the most common failure point when flickering or failure to ignite is happening.
On first fire they’ll do that. They’ll also look dimmer in the middle for a moment. After a few minutes they should be uniform with no flickering.Lights are on. Very slight flickering in some bulbs. Very slight. Almost like a twitching. Is some flickering normal?
Anyway, this doesn’t mean anything. The fans aren’t spinning (wire obstruction) and…I don’t know. Sign. I need a break.
Some new lamps have a swirl flicker effect which will go away with burn in.Lights are on. Very slight flickering in some bulbs. Very slight. Almost like a twitching. Is some flickering normal?
Anyway, this doesn’t mean anything. The fans aren’t spinning (wire obstruction) and…I don’t know. Sign. I need a break.
If they’re contactors, that could be the culprit. If that flickers everything downstream will flicker.They look like contactors to me. The tiny display probably cant handle a load so it just controls the open/close function on the contactors. I think the module above is probably for 0-10v dimming?