I have dino in my tank

[waleedreef]

I facing dino in my tank but i don't know what type of dino since i don't have the required tool.
i tried cover tank for 3 days and dose DR.TIMS aquatics waste away and rerfresh but he told me u will never win since you have 0 N and 0 P.
I am started dosing N in my tank and redo the treatment again but no success
I used another method H2O2 with 3 days blackout for one week but i see no improvements. I will continue dosing for one month.

Tank is 1.3 year old
Theiling aquraium with Roller mat filter
Theiling skimmer
Theiling UV

Im using RED SEA dosing

this is my Triton test results and also attached: https://www.triton-lab.de/en/showroom/aquarium/auswertung-b/icp-oes/89877/

 

[Bret Brinkmann]

It looks like they are on the sand and rocks. This is usually indicative of having two types. However nutrient dosing is key to over coming all dinos. Remember that you need to dose BOTH nitrates and phosphates. Otherwise they will always return. I recommend that you stop skimming. You want to raise nutrients not reduce them, which is what a skimmer does. Reducing your photo period and intensity through this will help too. Once they have subsided then bacteria dosing will be more effective on the ones in the sand. If your livestock is suffering, then run smaller amounts of GAC and change weekly to help with toxins.

 

[waleedreef]

3 weeks of dosing H2O2 and spot dosing Sand.

week 2 shows a lot of improvements in life rocks. I can see Dino became very skinny like a powder on life rocks.

But Dino in sand still exists. So I continue dosing but this time spot dosing sand.

I found that dosing underneath sand where I have Dino is very useful. I started to dose under sand and Dino fly up to overflow. It’s like I burned it from bottom.

I found Dosing underneath sand works so efficient.

Now I will work hard to adjust P and N to not face this issue again

Thank you guys for your support.

 

[waleedreef]

Dear All;

I receive new bigger tank 800 L while the old tank is 450 L but it's saturated with H202 where I was treat the Dino.

What should I do??

Should i put the same sand and life rocks or buy new sand and put dry rocks where I have it stock in my house? just to avoid Dino might transfer to bigger tank.

Also note that old tank is clear of dino but im worry for the bigger tank.

please advise

 

[brandon429]

what you should do is move the rocks only to the new tank and watch it for regrowth. if you can see no dinos after several weeks, then add sand that has been sterilized. the bacteria on the rocks are enough to transfer into the new system you dont need the sandbed bacteria. leaving the sandbed out makes it easier to beat them if they come back.

 

[waleedreef]

what you should do is move the rocks only to the new tank and watch it for regrowth. if you can see no dinos after several weeks, then add sand that has been sterilized. the bacteria on the rocks are enough to transfer into the new system you dont need the sandbed bacteria. leaving the sandbed out makes it easier to beat them if they come back.

what about the water? should I start new water ? please advise

 

[brandon429]

Yes I would. You are trying to reduce transfer of offending cells into the new tank, and only the bacteria on the rocks are required to continue filtration in the new tank. You can change 100% of the water and transfer no sand if you use a decent amount of live rock

post pics of your tank if possible.

Below I want to link a very long example thread so that you can see the disassembly, transfer, and reassembly of large tanks without loss. we rinse these sandbeds 100% clean during transfer, which is the same net effect as removing them altogether so this is handy to see as a pattern set for how people move homes and move tanks without loss

in this thread we rinse rocks in saltwater only by swishing them in buckets of saltwater, to eject detritus and in your case some dino cells. But the sand can be removed and put back later

the clean transfer technique doesn’t cure your new tank of dinos, it’s the procedural best option for starting with the fewest offending cells.

my strongest preventative advice would be to have a UV sterilizer, very oversized, a pond sterilizer for example, in place the day you transfer over the rocks and new water.
let’s see a pic of the # of rocks you are moving


here’s the work examples

Official Sand Rinse and Tank Transfer thread

If you are reading this thread to cure a tank invasion from a link I sent you, we do not need to identify your type of invasion here we do not need you to test anything at anytime regarding nitrate, phosphate etc Above all, we do not need to see a microscope slide picture of your invasion at...

www.reef2reef.com

starting your tank totally clean doesn’t stop you from ordering dosers for nitrate and phosphate, or for adding refugium pods that crawl about in the rocks and eat dino masses. Starting clean and free of detritus means you won’t get a mini cycle upon setup, and it coincidentally removes the most dino cells you can remove as the tank is disassembled for upgrade. You can begin any number of dino prevention moves on a clean tank and that’s less insulation for them to hide in, it’s more effective on a clean tank I’ll bet a dollar.