Ich infestation in DT some help please

Alex_GT

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Hello friends, i have a couple of questions about ICH, I have a 200 gals system and the habitants are Powder Blue Tang, Yellow Tang, Imperator Angel Fish (Juvenile), Banana Wrasse, Mandarin, Auriga Butterfly fish, Damsel, two Perculas, Goby Engineer and a couple of blue throat Triggers.

My last addition was the two Triggers and the banana wrasse, they had been in quarantine for 30 days, I used Prazy Pro and after the 30 days they move to the DT, they did not have any symptoms of ICH.

After two more weeks in my DT everything was great (30 days in QT plus 15 days in the DT) suddenly I watched a white spot on my PBT!!!! He is a big fish and the boss he is 6+ years and he had Ich once in the first month to be with me (I did not QT him 6 years ago) I mange to save him with Dr G´s antiparasitic food, metronidazole in the water (every two days) and garlic on the food, at that opportunity he was the only one with white spots the infestation lasted about two weeks and I gave the medicines for another 20 days (counted from the last time a spotted an spot).

But now the things are a little bit more complicated, after I saw the first spot, he continued developing more white spots (and dropped them) like the ich life cycle has to be, I started the Dr. G´s 6 days ago and the metronidazole 2 days ago, so is early to say if the approach is working or not, he is eating like always and he is a bull he is bulling all his tanks mates like he always do, no stress color, no elaborated breathing or scratching against rocks.

The difference this time is that the Yellow Tang developed today a couple of white spots, the Auriga Butterfly had one and dropped it 3 days ago but did not have any new again, 6 years ago I had the same Yellow Tang (he is 10+ years) and he did not had any sings of ICH and that time he is acting normal too eating well, he is shy but he always be in the other hand the Auriga is young (6+ months) she developed the ich mark on the yellow area, of course he could have on the white area and I am not noticing it, she is not eating the Dr. G´s medicine since she only eat flakes, she don’t even eat mysis or nory, only ocean nutrition flakes so I feel at some point she could get really sick.

The emperor angelfish is a juvenile he is 6+ months he came with the Butterfly, they had an extended QT period with two rounds of prazy pro, he grows from something like 1 ich to around 3 o 4 inches he eats anything and he does not have any visual signs of ICH but he developed HLLE not a really bad case but is there, it started the next day he eat the Dr. G´s medicated food, so I am not sure if is related to the medicine or to the ICH (he does not have any visual sings of it but it could be there stressing him)



The other fishes (even the new ones) do not have any visual signs of ICH.

I am confident with my approach since translate them to a QT tank is out of the question, first because it will be really difficult catch the fishes without taking all the rocks out, then I am pretty sure my old fishes will be very stressed and I am unable to locate an aquarium big enough to avoid major cases of aggression since the main DT will have to be fishless for around 6 months to kill the parasite, so I know even if I kill all the parasite I could have re infestations in the future.

So what do you guys think to add paraguard from Seachem to the recipe as far as I understand from the Seachem web site this medicine does not affect the biofilter, I don’t have any corals or other invertebrates the only ones are a few Mexican turbos that I can move to my Reef temporally I am thinking in add this to combat the parasite out of the fish body but I am not sure if this work like this or only works inside the fish body, my other idea is cupramine but sadly I can buy the cupramine but I can not buy the test (ironically at my country the LFS´s only sell the cupramine and not the test), of course I can import from amazon the cuprasorb and the test its an easy task but I will take around two weeks, I know the live rock will absorb it and release it with the time but I don’t have and will not have inverts in this tank, anyway I am afraid I will kill all the microfauna and my last option is wait and see and assume the risk of re infections after my fishes end the treatment, like I told before I was in this same situation around 6 years ago and I did not have any reinfections until now.

at last question what do you think went wrong with my QT procedure?


Thanks a lot for any advice and help in advance.



Alex
 

KrisReef

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Ich in the DT isn't the end of the world. Feed the fish well with high quality food and let them naturally deal with the problem.

Check out @Paul B thread on fish health and diet
 

vtecintegra

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It doesn't sound like you did any ich treatment in QT. Prazi is for flukes. I always assume new fish can have ich in the gills and treat, instead of waiting for spots on the body to show up.
 

UnderseaOddities

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It doesn't sound like you did any ich treatment in QT. Prazi is for flukes. I always assume new fish can have ich in the gills and treat, instead of waiting for spots on the body to show up.
Right on! @Alex_GT maybe make a trip to the store buy a few sterilite totes preferred size fill with half tank water and half new saltwater. Then buy sponge filters and 150w heaters.wlhen you go to home depot or lowes buy some ball valves to make wc easier.

Now you are going to want to treat with formalin or annehyde or methylene whatever you prefer then you are going to want to treat with a copper based product, you are going to have to oxygenate the water aswell as these products may reduce do(dissolved oxygen content) this will be a 2 to 3 month process,you are going to want to let your dt tank fallow after ,you qt for a period of up to 12 weeks depending on water volume. Make sure to dip any corals before re introducing fish. Try adding 1ml of lugols every 2 weeks to dt afterwards to promote sterility.you are going to want to dose meds in qt then eventually do enough wc to reduce the amount of formaldehyde in the water column; then after the solution is diluted back to normal( 3 weeks or so) keep it that way and top off daily to maintain stable parameters. then do the same with the copper based medication(4 to 6 weeks)then dilute back to normality then let the fish sit in your plain saltwater for a week

After 2 to 4 months
Reintroduce to dt

I bet the ich flare up came from the powder blue,many times. tangs are susceptible to ich.that being said they were often shipped 4 or more times before they get to the owner. Poached from the ocean to village, village or town to airport,lax for re ox,wc, re pack) then to local airport to wholesaler, wholesaler to local airport,local airport to distributor, distributor to customer,customer to home... mind you this journey was a 10k mile journey, with swings in paremeters,epxposure to diseases from over stocking, underfeeding,shipping stress

Also some countries still use cyanide or other antistehitics that may drastically shorten the life of the fish

Saltwater fish are naturally hardy and use to the abuse. That being said they are susceptible to diseases when put in the confines of a glass or plastic box,many of which swim miles a day, do to their journey, and differing conditions from the natural reef to synthetic lab like conditions, between swings in paremeters,underfeeding to not poop the bag,and medications used along the way, it's no doubt that most fish by the time they reach the east coast they're half dead in the bag...qt is the only way to stop this aswell as quality in quality out. We should always assume the worse case scenario and qt. If u are loosing fish in qt try using half recomended dose to water volume,for more sensitive fish with smooth scales like moorish idols you should use a quinine based medication instead of cupramine and formaldehyde
 
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UnderseaOddities

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Tangs will often have flare ups of ich it's just something the proud owner of a tang gang gets to deal with mixing species, that and tail whips
 

HB AL

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I dont quarantine and haven't ever. Just to keep it simple keep your water as pristine as possible and feed them extra food than normal, quality good frozen varieties of food and they should all be fine. I would worry less about the fish you've had the longest.
 

dyno

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You are lucky you have a fish only. Just add copper to your DT and keep it there for at least a month
 

Cell

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Sounds to me like ich has always been in your system if you didn't use copper and go fallow 6 yrs ago with the PBT.
 

Cell

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You are lucky you have a fish only. Just add copper to your DT and keep it there for at least a month

No no no.
 

BiggestE22

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Tangs will often have flare ups of ich it's just something the proud owner of a tang gang gets to deal with mixing species, that and tail whips
It’s not something that happens out of the blue. Ich has to be introduced to the tank for the fish to get it.
 

Willbiker

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You are lucky you have a fish only. Just add copper to your DT and keep it there for at least a month
Bad idea. This will kill all inverts and if you ever want to introduce corals in future, copper could leach from rocks and other tank components.

I live with ich with no problem. Install a UV, Feed a good variety of foods and keep stress to a minimum.
 

Spieg

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A UV unit is among the worst things you can do to a tank in terms of maintaining biodiversity.
 

Borat

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Nice experiment! I would add a few more clownfish, a bunch of tangs and see what happens!
 

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