Ick or velvet ?

bahamasmls

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Hi just wonder if this is velvet or ick? Looks worse when lights are on of course. Thanks for any info

5F18D6E6-E169-4C38-9314-B7544B8C19AD.png
 

Sharkbait19

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Is the fish breathing heavily or swimming into flow?
Either way, all fish should be treated with copper in a quarantine tank and tank should be fishless for at least 45 days.
 

Jay Hemdal

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Hi just wonder if this is velvet or ick? Looks worse when lights are on of course. Thanks for any info

5F18D6E6-E169-4C38-9314-B7544B8C19AD.png

That for sure isn't velvet. It could be ich, or it could be mucus plugs, or more likely, a mixture of both. If the smaller spots come and go and change location over 72 hours, that confirms ich. The larger spots look more like mucus.

Coppersafe for 30 days is my preferred treatment, but hyposalinity at 1.009 for 35 days (or 30 days beyond the last spot seen) also can work.

Jay
 

Cool tangs

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The trouble now is if you go down the QT path you have to QT everything including corals clean up crew ETC otherwise your just wasting your time. It takes a special some one with attention to detail and a lot of patience.

I did the QT approach and QT my coral and cuc one day I got a little impatient and thought bugger it I'll add a couple of little frags without QT and boom reintroduced ich into my tank and wasted all my time and energy.

Ich can be managed but not every fish can survive and sadly you may lose some of those new fish. Velvet is what you don't want though and feel lucky I only reintroduced ich. I'm a little annoyed at myself but learning that realistically this isn't the easiest option for everyone and now feed mostly pallets my fish are super fat and healthy and they generally don't get ich anymore as they have built up an immunity. I generally still QT for Velvet but don't bother about ich anymore so some times when I add a new fish I might get a small out break but the fish are healthy enough to fight it. So far changing from frozen to a high quality pallet I have noticed the difference in there health and how fat/wider my fish are.

This is my personal experience and am still learning by a long shot, I wouldn't panic at this point and feed a really high quality pallet food and ride it out for some time been personally. I'm in the ball park of both and definitely pro QT but as I said it takes a very special some one to make sure you never deviate from your stick protocol as it won't take much or long to undo all your hard work.

Good luck if there's one thing I've found in this hobby is to sit back, stop stressing and don't always act as acting too quickly and spiral into an even worse situation. Some times it's better to cut your loss of a fish or a coral vs doing something and losing all your fish or coral.

Personally this is my opinion good luck with whatever option you choose
 

vetteguy53081

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I’m seeing mucus plugs from previous outbreak and follow the two recommendations from @Jay Hemdal which will prove effective
You don’t have to qt corals however you want to leave the tank fishless (fallow) for 45-60 days to assure all cysts and tromonts are through their life cycle with no host and have died off.
 

Jay Hemdal

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Newer tank so no corals and inverts have been removed.
If you go that route, here is some info about hypo:


Jay
 
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bahamasmls

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Hey guys just an update. I went hypo because my qt is now full with other sick fish. What do you think of pictures. Looked like velvet the other day but no loses. Skin is very irritated.
 

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Jay Hemdal

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Hey guys just an update. I went hypo because my qt is now full with other sick fish. What do you think of pictures. Looked like velvet the other day but no loses. Skin is very irritated.
Velvet will always cause rapid breathing. If you aren’t seeing that, this is probably “stale ich” - when fish have had ich long term, bacteria can start to infect them.
What salinity are you at and how long have you been there?
Jay
 
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bahamasmls

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1.01 for about 4 days now. Breathing looks normal but they are not as active.
 

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