ICP test RO

[MiZuboov]

Hi!
Is there a table that indicates what values should be in reverse osmosis water? Maybe, is there an osmosis MPC for a marine aquarium? It is clear that there should be 0 in all elements, but this is impossible, I want to understand what the boundary values are.
Thank you a lot!

 

[CasperOe]

Hi!
Is there a table that indicates what values should be in reverse osmosis water? Maybe, is there an osmosis MPC for a marine aquarium? It is clear that there should be 0 in all elements, but this is impossible, I want to understand what the boundary values are.
Thank you a lot!

I may have read this the wrong way.

If you are based in Europe, then the Reef Factory ICP tests both your source water (RO) and your tank water. You send in two samples and get two separate reports/results back.

Reef Zlements does the same thing at a similar price.

 

[MiZuboov]

I may have read this the wrong way.

If you are based in Europe, then the Reef Factory ICP tests both your source water (RO) and your tank water. You send in two samples and get two separate reports/results back.

Reef Zlements does the same thing at a similar price.

I would like to understand what standard to compare my osmosis water with.
For example I have 0.00083 ppm Manganese. I don't know, It's normal? Where can I take comparison table..?))

 

[CasperOe]

I would like to understand what standard to compare my osmosis water with.
For example I have 0.00083 ppm Manganese. I don't know, It's normal? Where can I take comparison table..?))

Arh, now I understand.

I don't do ICP of my source water, living in Scotland I trust that the water is more than good enough after my 4-stage RO unit I'll leave it up to someone else to share their RO ICP results with you.

Q: Do you have reason to believe that you have an issue with your water?

Your manganese level is not dangerously high, but I would have a think about where it's coming from. My ICP provider recommends levels 0 - 3 µg/l. I would not chase any numbers though unless you have some cause for concern.

 

[MiZuboov]

Arh, now I understand.

I don't do ICP of my source water, living in Scotland I trust that the water is more than good enough after my 4-stage RO unit I'll leave it up to someone else to share their RO ICP results with you.

Q: Do you have reason to believe that you have an issue with your water?

Your manganese level is not dangerously high, but I would have a think about where it's coming from. My ICP provider recommends levels 0 - 3 µg/l. I would not chase any numbers though unless you have some cause for concern.

How much TDS do you have? Probably 0?)) I have 7 TDS after my RO filter and that's why I'm confusing..)
Maybe your provider has full elements table?))

 

[CasperOe]

How much TDS do you have? Probably 0?)) I have 7 TDS after my RO filter and that's why I'm confusing..)

Yeah I have 0. I generally change my filters when I get to 5 TDS.

 

[MiZuboov]

Yeah I have 0. I generally change my filters when I get to 5 TDS.

I have an overproductive osmosis, but it has 1 minus, it does not filter the water too well. But very quickly )
200L/2 hours.

 

[Fish Fan]

How much TDS do you have? Probably 0?)) I have 7 TDS after my RO filter and that's why I'm confusing..)
Maybe your provider has full elements table?))

Hello and welcome to R2R!

You may want to repost your questions under the General Filtration forum, I think you will get more replies and help there.

I just want to point out, that if you have only a Reverse Osmosis (RO) filter, this will only get you to approximately single digits on your TDS meter. So having a TDS reading of around 7 ppm after your RO filter is totally normal.

To get to nearly pure freshwater water with a TDS of basically 0 ppm, you would have to filter your water with an RO filter first, and then a Deionization (DI) filter. The DI filter is what gets you down to 0 TDS.

I don't know how many people lab test their source water, I'm sure some do. But in my opinion, if you have a good quality RO and DI filter system, and you are seeing basically 0 TDS after your DI filter, you should be good to go, unless you're planning on keeping the most delicate or sensitive animals. I think probably 99% of all of us here use a good RODI system, and don't give it much thought after that.

I hope that helps! Good luck!

 

[Fish Fan]

I have an overproductive osmosis, but it has 1 minus, it does not filter the water too well. But very quickly )
200L/2 hours.

What RO system do you have? 100L/hour would be 2400L/day, where most RO filters that I'm familiar with are going to be closer to about 500L/day. My RODI system from Bulk Reef Supply can produce (in theory) 150 gallons/day, which is about 567 L/day.

Again, I would post your questions over in the Filtration forum, you'll get people a lot smarter than me trying to help you ;-)

 

[MiZuboov]

What RO system do you have? 100L/hour would be 2400L/day, where most RO filters that I'm familiar with are going to be closer to about 500L/day. My RODI system from Bulk Reef Supply can produce (in theory) 150 gallons/day, which is about 567 L/day.

Again, I would post your questions over in the Filtration forum, you'll get people a lot smarter than me trying to help you ;-)

This is an industrial osmosis for restaurants.

 

[Fish Fan]

This is an industrial osmosis for restaurants.

Oh gotcha! Well an RO filter intended for drinking water will not get you down to 0 TDS. Near pure, 0 TDS water is not healthy to drink, and doesn't taste good. Typically, reefers install a DI filter after the RO filter, and it's the DI that gets you from 7 TDS to 0 TDS. I don't know if there's an industrial DI option to add to your RO filter.

May I ask, how much water do you need? Do you need an industrial system, or could you get by with a typical home RO/DI filter? My system produces over 100 gallons/day (378 L) of 0 TDS water. There are options to setup shut off valves, so you don't have to "babysit" your water making all day. Again, I'm not an expert, I'm not knowledgeable about industrial RO filters, and I don't know what size and kind of tank you have. But maybe a good hobby-level RO/DI filter is all you need, and would be very reliable and easy to install.

 

[jda]

RO should get you to the tap minus the rejection rate of the membrane. If you have a 90% membrane and 300 tds at the tap, then 30 tds should be left, or so. There is no way to predict what it will be - an ICP from one batch could be different than the next depending on what got through. ICP won't really be able to detect small levels of most things anyway, so don't read too much into the test.

In any case RO is better than tap in all cases.

 

[DCR]

It is rather complex and there is no simple answer. It obviously would depend on the quality of the incoming raw water. Also depends on the pressures. To further complicate matters, RO membranes do not reject all ions at the same level. In general, bivalent ions like calcium and sulfate are removed to a greater extent than monovalent ions like sodium and chloride. Silica is one of the most difficult. The overall 98% or 99% rejection ratings are based on some assumed set of inlet conditions and pressures. There is industrial software out there that does the predictions of rejection of individual ions, but it is not free or cheap.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

FWIW, I’ve rarely seen the analysis of 0 ppm tds ro/di water reveal anything useful.