ID on Dinos under microsope
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@ScottB might be able to help
Nice camera work.
Looks to be large cell amphidinium to me, although that little circle in the middle of it is throwing me off a little. Almost prorocentrum. But the swim pattern and the hooked beak smell like amphids.
Take a good look at the linked pictures and videos from @taricha in his ID thread.
www.reef2reef.com
Looks to be large cell amphidinium to me, although that little circle in the middle of it is throwing me off a little. Almost prorocentrum. But the swim pattern and the hooked beak smell like amphids.
Take a good look at the linked pictures and videos from @taricha in his ID thread.
Dinoflagellate Identification Guide
I've had this laying around for a while. Had some recent interest, so I tweaked it a bit and am posting it. Not really about cures just ID pictures, videos, and a few short facts. Hope it can be helpful.
www.reef2reef.com
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ReefDude716
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I was thinking that it was amphidinium. Especially because it stays lower in tank on top of sand and at night it leaves the top of sandNice camera work.
Looks to be large cell amphidinium to me, although that little circle in the middle of it is throwing me off a little. Almost prorocentrum. But the swim pattern and the hooked beak smell like amphids.
Take a good look at the linked pictures and videos from @taricha in his ID thread.
Dinoflagellate Identification Guide
I've had this laying around for a while. Had some recent interest, so I tweaked it a bit and am posting it. Not really about cures just ID pictures, videos, and a few short facts. Hope it can be helpful.
Unless @taricha comes along with a correction, it might be time to choose your choice of methods from this thread:
Amphidinium Dinoflagellate Treatment Methods
This thread is a spin-off from the @mcarroll very successful Dino thread The purpose is to discuss methods for removal and fighting against a particular strain of dinoflagellate - Large Cell Amphidinium. It seems to make up about a third of the cases of dinos. The reason this strain gets its...
www.reef2reef.com
It contains a fairly wide array of opinions. Treatment for this species is not nearly as clear cut as the protocol for the other four common species. The most common theme is dosing Sponge Excel (silicates) to ramp up diatoms as competitors on/in the sand bed.
On the bright side, they are not as toxic as the others.
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agreed here. This is an amphidinium. It's really close though.
3 things push me gently off the fence:
One, that there is a very slight left/right asymmetry near the front.
Two, these very detailed videos (imaging of the flagella wiggling out the front in the second video at the beginning and at 0:25) show no sign at all of theca (armor) which you could get hints of at this level of detail on prorocentrum.
Three, the imagery at 0:15-0:20 in the first video is enough suggestion of a beak or nose at the front for me to lean amphidinium.
3 things push me gently off the fence:
One, that there is a very slight left/right asymmetry near the front.
Two, these very detailed videos (imaging of the flagella wiggling out the front in the second video at the beginning and at 0:25) show no sign at all of theca (armor) which you could get hints of at this level of detail on prorocentrum.
Three, the imagery at 0:15-0:20 in the first video is enough suggestion of a beak or nose at the front for me to lean amphidinium.
I'm all proud of myself now.
But still learning from the Master.
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ReefDude716
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Just wanted to give an update. it seems my dino problem is slightly getting better. So about a month ago i had a small bottle of brightwell aquatics microbacteria 7. it helped alot but i ran out before the dinos were all gone.
To give you a sense of my tank , its 30 gallons long with an eshops sump which I estimated has an actual volume of 7 gallons to 10 gallons of actual water at moment so in total I have around 30 gallons of actual water after mitigating all the rock coral and equipment. Anyways it orginally was an AIO tank but i added external overflow. So the two internal overflows to back chamber the one side that dinos stay around have a drop in uv sterilizer and the other has a basket with chaeto. all other equipment is in sump. Right before I feed the fish at noon i test my phosphates daily. Always around .06 to .09 I do dose nopox and have not stopped because I don't want my nutrients to spike. My nitrates are around .5 to .7 on average i test once a week for that. So right after I finish phosphate test i turn off my return pump and powerheads, the UV sterilizer and my Protein Skimmer I give fish their food and then I add my nopox . I turn the powerheads on at this point and add microbacteria 7 and now add some oceanMagik phytoplankton. I turn back on the return pump and the powerheads but leave the UV sterilizer and Protein skimmer off for about 30 min. I would keep it off for 4hours but if i leave it off that long. Reason being is that when protein skimmer the water level is raised in the sump and therefor my ATO does not get kicked on. And if i turned it on 4 hours later it would be adding to much RO at one time. Anyways I hope it continues to work at getting rid of the dinos. Some corals suffered but a majority seem ok. Seemed like mostly the dinos that did get on corals mainly affected my montis and my duncan. Lol most the average person would say most my corals look good . i can say that they don't look as healthy and colorful as they were before the dinos
. Also i do about a 4gallon water change once a week. Should i continue with this routine.
Ca MG and ALK monitored with my trident always stable. I test potassium weekly. I just ordered the low range silica checker from hannah. I'm conisdering dosing some silica to get some dinos as last resort if my current routine doesn't work.
If the dinos are trending down then I would keep going as you are. What are you using to test nitrate? That is the only value that feels a little too close to zero for me. If you were feeding several times a day it wouldn't bother me too much.Just wanted to give an update. it seems my dino problem is slightly getting better. So about a month ago i had a small bottle of brightwell aquatics microbacteria 7. it helped alot but i ran out before the dinos were all gone.
To give you a sense of my tank , its 30 gallons long with an eshops sump which I estimated has an actual volume of 7 gallons to 10 gallons of actual water at moment so in total I have around 30 gallons of actual water after mitigating all the rock coral and equipment. Anyways it orginally was an AIO tank but i added external overflow. So the two internal overflows to back chamber the one side that dinos stay around have a drop in uv sterilizer and the other has a basket with chaeto. all other equipment is in sump. Right before I feed the fish at noon i test my phosphates daily. Always around .06 to .09 I do dose nopox and have not stopped because I don't want my nutrients to spike. My nitrates are around .5 to .7 on average i test once a week for that. So right after I finish phosphate test i turn off my return pump and powerheads, the UV sterilizer and my Protein Skimmer I give fish their food and then I add my nopox . I turn the powerheads on at this point and add microbacteria 7 and now add some oceanMagik phytoplankton. I turn back on the return pump and the powerheads but leave the UV sterilizer and Protein skimmer off for about 30 min. I would keep it off for 4hours but if i leave it off that long. Reason being is that when protein skimmer the water level is raised in the sump and therefor my ATO does not get kicked on. And if i turned it on 4 hours later it would be adding to much RO at one time. Anyways I hope it continues to work at getting rid of the dinos. Some corals suffered but a majority seem ok. Seemed like mostly the dinos that did get on corals mainly affected my montis and my duncan. Lol most the average person would say most my corals look good . i can say that they don't look as healthy and colorful as they were before the dinos
Should i continue with this routine.
Ca MG and ALK monitored with my trident always stable. I test potassium weekly. I just ordered the low range silica checker from hannah. I'm conisdering dosing some silica to get some dinos as last resort if my current routine doesn't work.
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ReefDude716
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I feed twice a day. It has never been below .5 nitrates. I use the new Hannah checker for nitrates
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