ID please, "rust" colored algea or bacteria?

[blackstallion]

Not sure if this is some kind of algae, bacteria, or something else? It can be siphoned up off the rock. I do have some minor Cyano in another portion of the tank that is under control.

Nitrates (0.17ppm on Hanna Low Range tester) and Phosphorus (10ppb = 0.03ppm Phosphate on Hanna Phosphorus tester) are very low, been trying to get them up by overfeeding (although I question the wisdom of overfeeding as I feel like it's just feeding whatever this is). I may consider dosing nitrates and phosphates until I can determine how to get my levels up sustainably.

Skimmer is on lowest setting.

Radions are on basically only Blues and Purple...whites, green and red down very low.

Was using Vibrant for a couple weeks in hopes it would help but I stopped because I heard it could actually make Cyano and Dino's breakout. Should I start using it again? I also have some DinoX I could use if needed.

And yes I'm aware I have Flatworms, slowly siphoning and then planning on using FWE.

 

[Amhojjat]

Looks like Red algie

 

[Amhojjat]

But it’s hard to tell

 

[vetteguy53081]

I see quite a bit of aptasia.
The slime appears to be cyano. Take a turkey baster and gently blow an area and see if it dislodges. If so, do areas at a time and siphon up loose matter. There are likely elevated concentrations of phosphate, nitrate and other organic compounds are too high.
Some of the most common causes include:
- Protein skimmer which fills water with tiny air bubbles. As bubbles form from the reaction chamber, dissolved organic compound molecules stick to them. Foam forms at the surface of the water and is then transferred to a collection cup, where it rests as skimmate. When the protein skimmer does not output the best efficiency or you do not have the suitable protein skimmer to cover the tank, the air bubbles created by the skimmer might be insufficient. And this insufficiency of air bubbles can trigger the cyano to thrive.
- Overstocking / overfeeding, your aquarium with nutrients is often the culprit of a cyano bloom
- Adding live rock that isn’t completely cured which acts like a breeding ground for red slime algae
- If you don’t change your water with enough frequency, you’ll soon have a brightly colored red slime algae bloom. Regular water changes dilute nutrients that feed cyanobacteria and keeps your tank beautifully clear
- Using a water source with nitrates or phosphates is like rolling out the welcome mat for cyano. Tap water is an example
- Inadequate water flow, or movement, is a leading cause of cyano blooms. Slow moving water combined with excess dissolved nutrients is a recipe for pervasive red slime algae development

I recommend reducing white light intensity or even turn them off for 5-7 days. Add liquid bacteria daily for a week during the day at 1.5ml per 10 gallons. Add Hydrogen peroxide at night at 1ml per 10 gallons. Add a pouch of chemipure Elite which will balance phos and nitrate and keep them in check.

After the week, add a few snails such as cerith, margarita, astrea and nassarius plus 6-8 blue leg hermits to take control.

 

[Amhojjat]

Looks like Red algie

Get a file fish for all that aptaisia too!

I heard cyno out is good.

but a prior post has the best information I think.

 

[blackstallion]

Ah yes, I also should have stated ignore the Aptasia lol!

But regarding your comment about the Skimmer being potentially inadequate, I actually turned it WAY down to min several months ago because I was battling low NO3 and PO4.

Also, I started overfeeding to introduce more nutrients.

So how do I go about balancing the need to bring up nutrients while not feeding Cyano and other nuisance algae?

Sometimes this hobby is maddening!

I see quite a bit of aptasia.
The slime appears to be cyano. Take a turkey baster and gently blow an area and see if it dislodges. If so, do areas at a time and siphon up loose matter. There are likely elevated concentrations of phosphate, nitrate and other organic compounds are too high.
Some of the most common causes include:
- Protein skimmer which fills water with tiny air bubbles. As bubbles form from the reaction chamber, dissolved organic compound molecules stick to them. Foam forms at the surface of the water and is then transferred to a collection cup, where it rests as skimmate. When the protein skimmer does not output the best efficiency or you do not have the suitable protein skimmer to cover the tank, the air bubbles created by the skimmer might be insufficient. And this insufficiency of air bubbles can trigger the cyano to thrive.
- Overstocking / overfeeding, your aquarium with nutrients is often the culprit of a cyano bloom
- Adding live rock that isn’t completely cured which acts like a breeding ground for red slime algae
- If you don’t change your water with enough frequency, you’ll soon have a brightly colored red slime algae bloom. Regular water changes dilute nutrients that feed cyanobacteria and keeps your tank beautifully clear
- Using a water source with nitrates or phosphates is like rolling out the welcome mat for cyano. Tap water is an example
- Inadequate water flow, or movement, is a leading cause of cyano blooms. Slow moving water combined with excess dissolved nutrients is a recipe for pervasive red slime algae development

I recommend reducing white light intensity or even turn them off for 5-7 days. Add liquid bacteria daily for a week during the day at 1.5ml per 10 gallons. Add Hydrogen peroxide at night at 1ml per 10 gallons. Add a pouch of chemipure Elite which will balance phos and nitrate and keep them in check.

After the week, add a few snails such as cerith, margarita, astrea and nassarius plus 6-8 blue leg hermits to take control.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Ah yes, I also should have stated ignore the Aptasia lol!

But regarding your comment about the Skimmer being potentially inadequate, I actually turned it WAY down to min several months ago because I was battling low NO3 and PO4.

Also, I started overfeeding to introduce more nutrients.

So how do I go about balancing the need to bring up nutrients while not feeding Cyano and other nuisance algae?

Sometimes this hobby is maddening!

Resume skimming, siphon this stuff up and follow other things I mentioned. You can add a pouch of ChemiPure blue or Elite to keep Phos and Nitrate in check

 

[Amhojjat]

Ah yes, I also should have stated ignore the Aptasia lol!

But regarding your comment about the Skimmer being potentially inadequate, I actually turned it WAY down to min several months ago because I was battling low NO3 and PO4.

Also, I started overfeeding to introduce more nutrients.

So how do I go about balancing the need to bring up nutrients while not feeding Cyano and other nuisance algae?

Sometimes this hobby is maddening!

i wouldn’t ignore the aptaisia!

protein=poo, poo=dirty problems and chem issues!

Do u have a phosphate or calcium reactor?

 

[Amhojjat]

Resume skimming, siphon this stuff up and follow other things I mentioned. You can add a pouch of ChemiPure blue or Elite to keep Phos and Nitrate in check

That chemipure is good stuff!

 

[blackstallion]

Resume skimming, siphon this stuff up and follow other things I mentioned. You can add a pouch of ChemiPure blue or Elite to keep Phos and Nitrate in check

I'm confused........my N03 is 0.17ppm and PO4 0.031ppm. Why am I trying to control them if they're so low?

I thought Cyano was an indication of low nutrients, and as such required upping nutrients?

I have ChemiClean I can use for the Cyano.

 

[blackstallion]

i wouldn’t ignore the aptaisia!

protein=poo, poo=dirty problems and chem issues!

Do u have a phosphate or calcium reactor?

Haha, I'm not ignoring the Aptasia. I had Berghia Nudibranches that obliterated the Aptasia about 6 months ago, but then died....I guess they didn't get all of the Aptasia though so it's back. Will need to determine if more Nudibranches are the solution.

I do not have a phosphate or calcium reactor...my PO4 is low, measured at 0.031ppm.

 

[Amhojjat]

I'm confused........my N03 is 0.17ppm and PO4 0.031ppm. Why am I trying to control them if they're so low?

I thought Cyano was an indication of low nutrients, and as such required upping nutrients?

I have ChemiClean I can use for the Cyano.

How many gallons is your tank, how many fish, what kind?

how many corals?

what is your complete set up?

I have never found a caertain tree of chemical to work well. I like to rely more on my set up and it’s mechanics.

do you have a refugium?

what is your dosing like and do u do water changes? How often? How much?

I think these are all questions that will help with the overall cure to the issue.
I would defanantly use the skimmer no though.

 

[vetteguy53081]

I'm confused........my N03 is 0.17ppm and PO4 0.031ppm. Why am I trying to control them if they're so low?

I thought Cyano was an indication of low nutrients, and as such required upping nutrients?

I have ChemiClean I can use for the Cyano.

What test kits are you using ?
Those readings ARE indeed low (if accurate) and would be indicative of dino. Elevated is Cyano
Can you post a couple more pics under white light?

 

[blackstallion]

What test kits are you using ?
Those readings ARE indeed low (if accurate) and would be indicative of dino. Elevated is Cyano
Can you post a couple more pics under white light?

Here are some more pictures. Difficult to get a good shot because it's in the back of my tank and fairly low towards the base on the left side by the overflow. I was doing a WC yesterday and the water was pretty low so this was the best shot I could get. Test results were taken with Hanna testers so I am confident in the parameters. The flow may be fairly low in that area since I don't have power heads in the back. Additional picture to show some green film algae, although it has bubbles in it as you can see, so is that indicative of Dino?

Tank is a 220g and only has one fish right now, a large YT. Pulsing Xenia, GSP, Kenya Trees, Hammer Coral, Acans, and RBTA. Was battling some pests including Red Flatworms and some algae, so have had the lights basically blue only for about the past 6 months. I have been also dosing AcroPower once a week at 40ml and Two Little Fishies Iron and Manganese supplement.

Since the nutrients were so low, I had turned the skimmer way down to the lowest setting, and started overfeeding pellet food. I'm thinking the corals enjoyed the additional nutrients, but so did the algea. I'm going to stop overfeeding the pellet, but keep the skimmer on low for now.

I have a bottle of DinoX, should I give it a go?

 

[Nate Chalk]

Maybe increasing flow to that area ? Looks to be a low flow area. Things like this usually work themselves out. I have no solution. Just thoughts.

 

[Nate Chalk]

Has it gotten worse or remained the same? Your tank looks successful

 

[vetteguy53081]

Here are some more pictures. Difficult to get a good shot because it's in the back of my tank and fairly low towards the base on the left side by the overflow. I was doing a WC yesterday and the water was pretty low so this was the best shot I could get. Test results were taken with Hanna testers so I am confident in the parameters. The flow may be fairly low in that area since I don't have power heads in the back. Additional picture to show some green film algae, although it has bubbles in it as you can see, so is that indicative of Dino?

Tank is a 220g and only has one fish right now, a large YT. Pulsing Xenia, GSP, Kenya Trees, Hammer Coral, Acans, and RBTA. Was battling some pests including Red Flatworms and some algae, so have had the lights basically blue only for about the past 6 months. I have been also dosing AcroPower once a week at 40ml and Two Little Fishies Iron and Manganese supplement.

Since the nutrients were so low, I had turned the skimmer way down to the lowest setting, and started overfeeding pellet food. I'm thinking the corals enjoyed the additional nutrients, but so did the algea. I'm going to stop overfeeding the pellet, but keep the skimmer on low for now.

I have a bottle of DinoX, should I give it a go?

Follow the plan I gave you. You'll beat this

 

[blackstallion]

Follow the plan I gave you. You'll beat this

So I didn't implement this plan yet (although my lights are blue's only basically right now), although it seems like the Cyano is no longer an issue.

However, I have a lot of green film algae now it seems.

Will your plan help to address this?

Also, what bacteria do you recommend? Does Vibrant work?

 

[vetteguy53081]

So I didn't implement this plan yet (although my lights are blue's only basically right now), although it seems like the Cyano is no longer an issue.

However, I have a lot of green film algae now it seems.

Will your plan help to address this?

Also, what bacteria do you recommend? Does Vibrant work?

No vibrant and bacteria- Microbacter 7 OR XLM

 

[HudsonReefer2.0]

Haha, I'm not ignoring the Aptasia. I had Berghia Nudibranches that obliterated the Aptasia about 6 months ago, but then died....I guess they didn't get all of the Aptasia though so it's back. Will need to determine if more Nudibranches are the solution.

I do not have a phosphate or calcium reactor...my PO4 is low, measured at 0.031ppm.

I had berghias and they wiped my tank clean but took 2-3 months to get all around the tank. Hmmmm.