If you're on a regular water change schedule, do you test your parameters before or after WC or both?

[Clo]

Was just curious.

If you're checking before, it must be because there's some kind of issue. And then if you check after, it's to see if things need to be replenished.
But if you're on a regular WC, you change on a set day so I guess most people do after? Even though theoretically, changing the water should replenish your water with minerals?
I've ONLY been checking after, but I'm wondering if I benefit from checking before and after?

Someone educated my uneducated self, thank you.

 

[ScottJ]

I'm in the 'uneducated camp' myself. But I usually do water changes on the weekend, so I do weekly tests Wednesdays or so.

 

[Clo]

I'm in the 'uneducated camp' myself. But I usually do water changes on the weekend, so I do weekly tests Wednesdays or so.

Oh! So you don't do it immediately after but a few days after? That's not bad, it puts you in the midway point. : o

 

[PeterC99]

Test one day before weekly water change. Testing after water change gives you skewed results (you have removed PO4 & NO3).

Now it’s important to test water change water itself periodically to ensure that the correct parameters are being added to you aquarium.

 

[Clo]

Test one day before weekly water change. Testing after water change gives you skewed results (you have removed PO4 & NO3).

Now it’s important to test water change water itself periodically to ensure that the correct parameters are being added to you aquarium.

If I'm mixing my water before I do my WC, I still need to check it? I always check salinity but I never check other parameters for my new water

 

[vetteguy53081]

Generally, checking before determines need for water change and checking after determines effectiveness of water change BUT you want to wait 12-24 hrs after water change to test again as there will be suspended matter giving false results. Water changes are a method to remove nutrients and replenish elements. In the beginning stages of your aquarium, it may be the only way elements are replaced.
If your tank is looking a bit dirty, or your corals are not as perky as usual, these are indications that a water change is needed. If you are having algae issues or test results are showing high nitrate, or phosphate, then you need to increase the volume and frequency of the water change.
When doing a water change, we have to consider the inhabitants of our tank. Make sure the temperature of the water you are adding, is the same as the tanks current temperature. The ideal temperature is anywhere between 75 – 80°F (23.5 – 26.5°C) .
Test the salinity of your new water so it matches your tank water. If you find your tank water has high salinity you may want to consider adding an auto top off unit to your tank. Make sure to match the salinity while aiming for 35ppt or 1.025 sg.

 

[PeterC99]

If I'm mixing my water before I do my WC, I still need to check it? I always check salinity but I never check other parameters for my new water

Yes - Test new batches of your water change when you open a new box of salt and near the end of the box. Know people that had large parameter swings and major problems because of bad salt batches. Dont have to test everything, but Alk, Calc, and phosphates.

The more invested and established your aquarium the more important to check. Just a good practice.

 

[Clo]

Yes - Test new batches of your water change when you open a new box of salt and near the end of the box. Know people that had large parameter swings and major problems because of bad salt batches. Dont have to test everything, but Alk, Calc, and phosphates.

The more invested and established your aquarium the more important to check. Just a good practice.

Ok thank you! I will keep that in mind, I never knew people experienced swings due to bad batches.

Generally, checking before determines need for water change and checking after determines effectiveness of water change BUT you want to wait 12-24 hrs after water change to test again as there will be suspended matter giving false results. Water changes are a method to remove nutrients and replenish elements. In the beginning stages of your aquarium, it may be the only way elements are replaced.
If your tank is looking a bit dirty, or your corals are not as perky as usual, these are indications that a water change is needed. If you are having algae issues or test results are showing high nitrate, or phosphate, then you need to increase the volume and frequency of the water change.
When doing a water change, we have to consider the inhabitants of our tank. Make sure the temperature of the water you are adding, is the same as the tanks current temperature. The ideal temperature is anywhere between 75 – 80°F (23.5 – 26.5°C) .
Test the salinity of your new water so it matches your tank water. If you find your tank water has high salinity you may want to consider adding an auto top off unit to your tank. Make sure to match the salinity while aiming for 35ppt or 1.025 sg.

Thank you! I know monitoring coral and fish behavior can signal some imbalances, but I never knew that immediately testing will give false results. And, I know they're important for new tanks, but not the finer details of why.

This is all great information on modifying my testing schedule and methods. Thank you everyone!

 

[josephxsxn]

I test before the water change, sometimes 24h before sometimes 1h before just depends on how much time I'll have the next day to take care of the tank. I know I do about a 15% WC so I can estimate the impact of the WC.

I don't test my 40 gal frag tank ever, been over 3 years.. but do weekly 50% water changes to it. Sometimes I feel it does better then my display which is tested..

 

[mike550]

Not going to repeat everyone’s explanations which are pretty much same views as me. If my water change is on Saturday then I test on Sunday and Thursday. Having two data points helps me make sure my dosing is keeping things consistent between changes

 

[Poof No Eyebrows]

Every week and neither. No testing.

 

[Nick Steele]

I test before my water change it just see how the tank is acting (alk phos nitrate and salinity). But I can usually tell by corals if something is up. I also check my new saltwater for salinity and alk. I’ve had some batches at 1.025 but alk is was at 9 instead of usual 8.3. I usually will just do a smaller change as to not swing alk to much.

I only test calc two times a month right now and magnesium when ever I remember.

 

[Clo]

Ok here's another question about testing, when I test, I test for:

pH, salinity, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, Alk, mag, ca

Do I need to test for phos in a newer tank? And, am I missing anything else important to test for?

 

[Nick Steele]

Ok here's another question about testing, when I test, I test for:

pH, salinity, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, Alk, mag, ca

Do I need to test for phos in a newer tank? And, am I missing anything else important to test for?

How new is new? I haven’t tested for ammo or nitrite since I cycled my tank only tested for maybe 2 weeks.

I would keep an eye on phos just so it’s not at 0 along with nitrates because that can cause issues.

 

[PeterC99]

Ok here's another question about testing, when I test, I test for:

pH, salinity, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, Alk, mag, ca

Do I need to test for phos in a newer tank? And, am I missing anything else important to test for?

Once tank established you no longer need to test for ammonia and nitrites.

Sounds like you might be getting ready for a Neptune Apex?

 

[Clo]

How new is new? I haven’t tested for ammo or nitrite since I cycled my tank only tested for maybe 2 weeks.

I would keep an eye on phos just so it’s not at 0 along with nitrates because that can cause issues.

Hitting 45 days, but I always get paranoid that snails are dying in the rock or something. I've had a few get caught on the outside of the rock already due to their shell size lol...........

 

[Clo]

Once tank established you no longer need to test for ammonia and nitrites.

Sounds like you might be getting ready for a Neptune Apex?

I definitely want a controller eventually, but I feel like I need to do some more manual testing and understand my tank more before I automate. I feel like getting a controller so soon will set me up for some bad times because I'll def take a back seat approach

 

[Nick Steele]

45 days you’re good to spot testing ammo and nitrite in my opinion. I have snails die every once in awhile and haven’t noticed any effects from it. I have on that died and then my rock nem grabbed the shell and didn’t eat it and won’t let it go. I could see the decaying snail in the shell so the nem didn’t eat it. Nothing happened from what I can tell and shell is still there after a month although dead snail has been eaten by my hermits.

 

[BoxKing]

No testing before or after. I do a water change every 3rd week, sometimes biweekly. I do test ALK from my mix and adjust if need be prior to adding to the tank to ensure its within range.

 

[melonheadorion]

i usually check my parameters the day before or the day of the WC date. if there is a parameter that i am concerned of, i might check it through the week, but usually not within the week. once i do a water change, i will check them usually the day after to allow things to get to a normal state within the filtration process, and to let things settle down.
on the other hand, since i am new to corals, i check my coral specific params 2 times a week usually