I just upgraded from a 55 to 150. I am utilizing 2 Fluval 407 canisters.
Your rock is possibly too minimal to support the bio-load you have (ie fish), so you may need something supplemental, but if I were in your shoes I think I'd experiment to find out.
Using a canister filter isn't the end of the world and clever things can be done to adapt them to be a little better, but they really aren't geared toward reef use....they're geared for infrequent servicing like they'd get on a (eg) planted tank. So personally, I'd start by removing one canister (or gutting it and running it empty so it can be returned to service easily).
Monitor for ammonia. (Dip tests, drip test, ammo badge, etc. Your preference...a badge is REALLY convenient. A backup is nice tho.)
See ammonia? Don't panic, but *do* do something about it. I would switch gears from the canister to something easier to service and maintain.....usually a sump tops the list of "pleasing to work on", but more to this later....
Adding a little more live rock would be the most ideal response – I don't think it would take a whole lot.
Adding another bio-filter such as a HOB or internal filter (eg Tunze 3168) with some bio media (even live rock rubble) would be an easy win.
There are other options as well.
But if no ammonia shows up, then gut the 2nd canister and do the same observation game with the badge/testing.
If your bio-load is in-line with the tank's current rock setup, then it's conceivable that your tank's ammonia processing might be fine as-is (even without the canisters) so then you don't need to do anything more than maybe add a skimmer and a powerhead or two.
I am not comfortable with adding a sump as I’m just getting back into the hobby after 20 years and I don’t really have anyone to physically show me how to use or maintain one.
There's no need to start off with a complicated sump (even if you decide one makes sense later).
If you want to go with a sump, go with a plain aquarium. Something les tall (eg. "Breeder" tanks) is usually preferred just for ease of access, but anything can work.
The basic idea:
- Drain the water from the display.
- An add-on overflow box works great, but a drilled tank is definitely slicker, easier to live with.
- Select a great pump for your return (based on head height and desired flow...we can help with this part) to put the water back.
- Heat and filter the water in the sump how you see fit. (E.g. protein skimmer.)
- Simple!
There is absolutely no need for anything else, or anything you aren't comfortable putting down there and taking care of. The sump itself should need no care. If detritus accumulates, add a small powerhead to create flow and allow detritus to feed the corals in the display. No maintenance.
A sump (the whole system, really) should be exactly as simple and easy to care for as you want it to be. That's a core idea that sometimes gets lost in all the conventional thinking.
I am seeing in-tank protein skimmers online and wonder if this would be beneficial. It’s 150 tall
Tunze 9012 or 9012 DC.....add the holiday cup option (cup with hose outlet) if it makes sense.
, mind my corals they are still angry from the move 3 days ago. Any advice or recommendations? Thank you
They at least look good from a distance, but undoubtedly they would be perturbed from a big move.
I do recommend switching from the canisters to just a skimmer...or skimmer+filter if needed.