Is 0.8ppm ammonia waterchange worthy ATM?

[Munkiful]

Can we have a full pic of the tank and a pic of the sump if it’s got one. Looking on the bright side, at 0.8, it ain’t going up. Can you make a glass with 50% new salt water and 50% tank water, then test that see if you get 0.4 ish (just to evidence it’s a real reading and not a dodgy test kit, method).

Super interesting, it looks to be the same. I used 50% RODI water, with a pinch of red sea blue bucket salt.

 

[Munkiful]

Super interesting, it looks to be the same. I used 50% RODI water, with a pinch of red sea blue bucket salt.

This is a picture with flash, I think it demonstrates the color better.

 

[Garf]

Super interesting, it looks to be the same. I used 50% RODI water, with a pinch of red sea blue bucket salt.

Ok but it should be saltwater I think. The colour cards are normally different for freshwater and salt, I assume this is somewhere in between.

 

[Uncle99]

Maybe your test is wrong?
Maybe you are zero, but the test kit can’t see it?
Based on what you wrote, you should be well cycled.

Found this problem with many hobby grade kits.

Sent me on a wild goose chase many times.

 

[Garf]

Maybe your test is wrong?
Maybe you are zero, but the test kit can’t see it?
Based on what you wrote, you should be well cycled.

Found this problem with many hobby grade kits.

Sent me on a wild goose chase many times.

And more confusion is added when new salt mixes often have a detectable ammonia concentration.

 

[brandon429]

This reef is cycled

Change .8 nh4 into nh3 and re report the level, see how it's actually safe zone and that is why all your animals are fine each day, exhibiting no symptoms

You don't need to assist ammonia here, no water change is needed

Nh4 is for freshwater, we only care about nh3 so your actual level is about thirteen times lower than stated. Source: guys from the chemistry forum

It's not that the tests misread, it's that we're remarking over the wrong conversion level

 

[brandon429]

At no time does this tank need future ammonia testing, not ever

That's enough live rock for the surface area, you wouldn't have made 48 hours if it wasn't.

 

[brandon429]

The specific reasons we don't test for ammonia in any post- cycle reef:

Ammonia rising can't precede a fish kill in a display, a fish kill always comes before ammonia rising. There isn't a time or cause found in a post-cycle display that free ammonia nh3 won't be compliant, so testing for a known compliant variable is a waste of time. If fish die, remove them, then ammonia can't be spiked


If this was a low surface area quarantine, I'd recommend using a seachem common alert badge to signal maximum nh3 before a water change.

 

[Munkiful]

Ok but it should be saltwater I think. The colour cards are normally different for freshwater and salt, I assume this is somewhere in between.

It is, I intended to say I made a small amount of saltwater, so I only used a small amount of salt.

This reef is cycled

Change .8 nh4 into nh3 and re report the level, see how it's actually safe zone and that is why all your animals are fine each day, exhibiting no symptoms

You don't need to assist ammonia here, no water change is needed

Nh4 is for freshwater, we only care about nh3 so your actual level is about thirteen times lower than stated. Source: guys from the chemistry forum

It's not that the tests misread, it's that we're remarking over the wrong conversion level

Ok thank you, I'm relatively new to it all. If you have a second could you link, or point me in the direction of something to read in regards to this? I'd like to be able to really understand what you're saying lol. If not, I'm sure I can find it eventually.

 

[brandon429]

See if the directions in the ammonia test have a little chart where you estimate the right conversion from the color sample, it should be in the directions and .8= ~.05