Is carbon necessary for longevity with Triton?

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BigJohnny

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@Tim@Triton

I am running a modified triton method where I use kalk and 3 part to supplement calcium/alkalinity/magnesium and dose potassium/strontium/iodine supplements weekly based on my tanks consumption. I do a triton test every 2 months to monitor those items on top of regular hobby grade testing to make sure everything else stays in check. I will dose other items if necessary based on those recommendations. I have a strong skimmer and a strong fuge and I don't do water changes. I also don't use gfo or carbon, and this is what my question is about.

I personally don't like using carbon on reef tanks because I have experienced issues using too much or too strong of carbon in the past. I sometimes clarify my water with kz coral snow but that's about it. My question is, since I am not doing water changes, do you think carbon is much more important due to potential build up of toxins/pollutants? How likely would it be for these to accumulate but not show up on tests? Have you guys ever tried not running carbon? Also, what type of carbon do you recommended and at what amount?

Thanks
 

nicsound

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Good question. I'm just getting going with the full triton method but have been wondering the same. I haven't found much more of an answer to this than to use triton's carbon "as required by your tank" which I understand but at the same time would like to understand the significance of running carbon in a no-water-change system, the recommended method (ie. constant/intermittent/occasional/passive/reactor) and now that you mention it, what type and why?
 

FlyinBryan

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I don’t Triton however i think carbon through a reactor would be actually very good for the system. There’s really good videos on how carbon can really help clean up the water preventing that discoloration.
Having nice clean water also helps light penetrate through the water helping to keep PAR values up. Especially if you’re no longer doing water changes.
 
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I don’t Triton however i think carbon through a reactor would be actually very good for the system. There’s really good videos on how carbon can really help clean up the water preventing that discoloration.
Having nice clean water also helps light penetrate through the water helping to keep PAR values up. Especially if you’re no longer doing water changes.

Yea but there are other ways to remove water discoloration, and what you are talking about is a positive but not necessary. I definitely wouldn't run it in a reactor personally because I've had problems even running it in a bag before. I just don't like carbon for a variety of reasons but I've always done water changes, so this is new territory.
 

FlyinBryan

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Yea but there are other ways to remove water discoloration, and what you are talking about is a positive but not necessary. I definitely wouldn't run it in a reactor personally because I've had problems even running it in a bag before. I just don't like carbon for a variety of reasons but I've always done water changes, so this is new territory.

I will say I was big time problems with my tank until I brought gfo/carbon on line. I never run a tank now without it. I think passive is really limited but it has to depend on size of system. I’ve run reactor for years with no issues and great results.

To each their own.
 
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I will say I was big time problems with my tank until I brought gfo/carbon on line. I never run a tank now without it. I think passive is really limited but it has to depend on size of system. I’ve run reactor for years with no issues and great results.

To each their own.

Gfo is a whole other discussion my friend. Glad they are both working for you. Of course many reefers have success with one or both, but thats not exactly what this thread is about. Thanks
 

Mark Gray

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@Tim@Triton

I am running a modified triton method where I use kalk and 3 part to supplement calcium/alkalinity/magnesium and dose potassium/strontium/iodine supplements weekly based on my tanks consumption. I do a triton test every 2 months to monitor those items on top of regular hobby grade testing to make sure everything else stays in check. I will dose other items if necessary based on those recommendations. I have a strong skimmer and a strong fuge and I don't do water changes. I also don't use gfo or carbon, and this is what my question is about.

I personally don't like using carbon on reef tanks because I have experienced issues using too much or too strong of carbon in the past. I sometimes clarify my water with kz coral snow but that's about it. My question is, since I am not doing water changes, do you think carbon is much more important due to potential build up of toxins/pollutants? How likely would it be for these to accumulate but not show up on tests? Have you guys ever tried not running carbon? Also, what type of carbon do you recommended and at what amount?

Thanks
Very good question I run carbon sometimes but not all the time, with my new build I am going to run full triton so I guess I need to run it all the time With my tank now I am not really running triton I have a fuge but just does what I need not triton
 
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Very good question I run carbon sometimes but not all the time, with my new build I am going to run full triton so I guess I need to run it all the time With my tank now I am not really running triton I have a fuge but just does what I need not triton
I don't think they necessarily recommend running it constantly but I know they do recommend it's use. My guess is continuing to use it periodically as you do now would be fine. Kind of like doing weekly/bi weekly/monthly water changes vs automatic daily. What type/brand do you use and how much/gallon? Passive or reactor?

It's certainly not essential in reef tanks as I'm sure you are aware, but I do think it may be a good insurance policy when not doing water changes. I just don't know how much/which of those aren't already reduced/removed via skimming/refugium/other biological means including natural degradation. I know I could implement it somehow and likely not harm my tank, but I've had a few bad experiences so I'm gun shy.

Having said all that, I run an sps dominant tank with a few euphyllia, not a full blown mixed reef with leathers or other corals that can release some pretty harmful stuff. Chemical warfare exists between all corals but some are definitely worse and I think carbon helps with that as well.

My other question is do they also recommend carbon to reduce things released by refugiums that aren't trimmed frequently (or at all)? They release good stuff for the corals but I'm sure some bad stuff as well.
 

Gareth elliott

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I would think need occasionally to run to remove gelbstoff. Not sure if would be exported otherwise.
 
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I would think need occasionally to run to remove gelbstoff. Not sure if would be exported otherwise.
I don't think gelbstoff on its own is harmful (don't know) besides yellowing the water/reducing light penetration and you can remove it by other means. I use kz coral snow and it gets pulled out through my protein skimmer. I wouldn't be surprised if refugiums pulled some out as well.
 

Gareth elliott

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So made the mistake of looking up to studies on this.
Skimmer efficiency

http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2009/1/aafeature2

Gac efficiency
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2008/2/aafeature1

For skimmer one i would scroll down to results section. There are quite a few pages just on the method of testing and why BSA was used.

Seems like a test could do on your own though. Do triton for x time no gac. Do a 5 gallon water change, compare the color to new salt water see if there are pigments.
Only harm from gelbstoff would the decrease in par i think too.
 
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So made the mistake of looking up to studies on this.
Skimmer efficiency

http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2009/1/aafeature2

Gac efficiency
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2008/2/aafeature1

For skimmer one i would scroll down to results section. There are quite a few pages just on the method of testing and why BSA was used.

Seems like a test could do on your own though. Do triton for x time no gac. Do a 5 gallon water change, compare the color to new salt water see if there are pigments.
Only harm from gelbstoff would the decrease in par i think too.

Yea i could test it on my own but I hate doing water changes lol, thats why I'm doing modified triton. However without even looking at that or doing a test I would estimate gac is wayyyy more efficient. I incorporate kz coral snow though.. I can clarify my water very well in about 2 hours after application. I dose it about once every month or two, more when I'm cleaning the tank a lot/removing algae or detritus. Its a pretty amazing product IMO, and most people think its basically just chalk! funny enough.

Im more worried about toxins/pollutants than the selbstlader.
 

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I haven't done water changes in about a year (although I run a fuge) and I noticed my corals were not really growing. Added on some gac and within a week water was super clear and sps started to take off again. I think the chemical warfare and toxins between corals is definitely something to be concerned about if you're not doing water changes. Yellowing water and PAR reduction is more a secondary benefit to remove.
 
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BigJohnny

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I haven't done water changes in about a year (although I run a fuge) and I noticed my corals were not really growing. Added on some gac and within a week water was super clear and sps started to take off again. I think the chemical warfare and toxins between corals is definitely something to be concerned about if you're not doing water changes. Yellowing water and PAR reduction is more a secondary benefit to remove.

Could have just been the increase in par though, can't prove either way. What corals do you have in the tank? Could have also been an unknown contaminant unrelated to corals or water changes. It's definitely something to consider though, thanks for your anecdote.
 

landlubber

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another question, what exactly are carbons limitations? we all get that it removes toxins, restores clarity and is known to remove medication post treatment. but it seems far fetched to think that carbon is completely discriminate to reefing nasties and somehow is tailored perfectly to not remove essential elements as well.
 

Joe Batt

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Carbon removes 'bad stuff' I wonder what 'good stuff' it also removes?
 

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