Is it true that foxfaces are resistant to ich and velvet?

[lba4590]

I’ve currently quarantining a large foxface lo that is very stressed and I’m doing everything I can to keep medications to a minimum. I had a one spot foxface previously that died after 3 weeks in copper, so needless to say I really don’t want to go through that again.

I’ve had him for exactly one week and so far he looks very healthy, no spots or issues yet. But as mentioned is very stressed, rarely bright yellow and mostly hides, but is fat and eating. I do treat all of my fish with prazi prophylactically before going in the DT.

I’ve read that foxfaces are naturally resistant to ich and velvet but I’m not sure how true this is - is it necessary to treat with copper or is it safe to assume if I don’t see it after 30 days it’s not an issue?

 

[Ravsta]

If you don’t see anything after 30 days then I would say you’re safe. Not sure about then being resistant to ich though. Maybe someone more experienced with them can comment.

 

[JoshH]

@Jay Hemdal any thoughts here?

Might be worth trying TTM With hydrogen peroxide instead of using copper if he seems super stressed.

 

[Jay Hemdal]

I’ve run hundreds of foxface and rabbit fish through full strength coppersafe, for 30 days, never had an issue. TTM would be more stressful for this fish IMO. Foxface aren’t super prone to ich, but they get it often enough.
I wonder what you can do to make the fish feel more secure in the QT? Lower the lights, add more hiding, and blacking out the tank sides are all things to try. I like to paint the bottom outside of my QT as well, can’t do that now of course.
Jay

 

[tehmadreefer]

I’ve run hundreds of foxface and rabbit fish through full strength coppersafe, for 30 days, never had an issue. TTM would be more stressful for this fish IMO. Foxface aren’t super prone to ich, but they get it often enough.
I wonder what you can do to make the fish feel more secure in the QT? Lower the lights, add more hiding, and blacking out the tank sides are all things to try. I like to paint the bottom outside of my QT as well, can’t do that now of course.
Jay

Except all fish carry ich regardless of qt or ttm...

 

[Jay Hemdal]

Except all fish carry ich regardless of qt or ttm...

Well, I do have to disagree with you on that point- I have a 180,000 tropical marine system that has never had Cryptocaryon in it since it was set up six years ago. All incoming fish get 35+ days copper, 35 days hypo for Neobenedenia and 3x prazi over 3 weeks ending with a minimum of 2 weeks observation. Trouble is people don’t like to put that much effort into quarantine. I do agree that a simple TTM won’t work to eliminate Crypt.

Jay

 

[polyppal]

If the tank is already in operation, you can tape some cardboard/etc to the exterior panes to make him feel a little more secure. A PVC elbow 'cave' he can fit in will also help feel more secure

 

[lba4590]

I’ve run hundreds of foxface and rabbit fish through full strength coppersafe, for 30 days, never had an issue. TTM would be more stressful for this fish IMO. Foxface aren’t super prone to ich, but they get it often enough.
I wonder what you can do to make the fish feel more secure in the QT? Lower the lights, add more hiding, and blacking out the tank sides are all things to try. I like to paint the bottom outside of my QT as well, can’t do that now of course.
Jay

Good to know, thank you! I’ve honestly never seen such a stressed fish. Tank is a bit small (30g, 5” fish) but it’s filled with plastic decor to hide in, I keep only the “night light” on or no light at all. When I change out the seaweed holder he goes absolutely nuts flying back and forth across the tank. I will try blacking out the sides, I think that may help. I can’t imagine how he’d do with TTM.. probably have a heart attack..

I will start ramping up the copper, even though I’m a little nervous.. but I feel really confident that there is no ich in my system at all so I don’t want to risk it.

 

[shadow62672]

Velvet kills everything. I have had velvet twice. It has killed everything. Fox face, clowns, diamondback goby. It is merciless and fast. It will kill before you even notice the dusting on some.

 

[fishphukr]

Well, I do have to disagree with you on that point- I have a 180,000 tropical marine system that has never had Cryptocaryon in it since it was set up six years ago. All incoming fish get 35+ days copper, 35 days hypo for Neobenedenia and 3x prazi over 3 weeks ending with a minimum of 2 weeks observation. Trouble is people don’t like to put that much effort into quarantine. I do agree that a simple TTM won’t work to eliminate Crypt.

Jay

Do you quarantine corals too? The problem I’m having is I qt fish with copper so they don’t introduce ich in my display. But as soon as I introduce coral or rocks from another tank, my fish get ich. Im introducing fish slowly to the display so if there is an outbreak, there aren’t a ton of fish to serve as hosts. It avoids a snowball ich effect.

 

[Jay Hemdal]

Do you quarantine corals too? The problem I’m having is I qt fish with copper so they don’t introduce ich in my display. But as soon as I introduce coral or rocks from another tank, my fish get ich. Im introducing fish slowly to the display so if there is an outbreak, there aren’t a ton of fish to serve as hosts. It avoids a snowball ich effect.

Yes - we quarantine all incoming corals, CUC, fish, algae, anything wet. Fish get active quarantine, corals and CUC get a "time out" in a fishless system long enough to break the life cycle of any fish disease, and to give time for any coral pests to show up - typically 45 to 75 days.

Jay

 

[DBLA]

I’m having similar stress. I’ve been waiting on a mag fox face for over 2 years and finally have one in QT, fat healthy two rounds of praxi down, but just acts stressed out. My QT is much smaller, and am doing partial WC every 2 days but I’ve never been more anxious to get a fish into the DT.

 

[jmichaelh7]

Yes - we quarantine all incoming corals, CUC, fish, algae, anything wet. Fish get active quarantine, corals and CUC get a "time out" in a fishless system long enough to break the life cycle of any fish disease, and to give time for any coral pests to show up - typically 45 to 75 days.

Jay

Jay do you recommend quarantining corals and sps frags this long ?? What about dips

 

[Jay Hemdal]

Jay do you recommend quarantining corals and sps frags this long ?? What about dips

We have the luxury of a coral system with really good conditions to more easily keep corals isolated. What you obviously don’t want to do is quarantine corals under poor conditions and lose them due to that. Dipping is better than nothing in those cases.
Jay

 

[lagatbezan]

I’ve currently quarantining a large foxface lo that is very stressed and I’m doing everything I can to keep medications to a minimum. I had a one spot foxface previously that died after 3 weeks in copper, so needless to say I really don’t want to go through that again.

I’ve had him for exactly one week and so far he looks very healthy, no spots or issues yet. But as mentioned is very stressed, rarely bright yellow and mostly hides, but is fat and eating. I do treat all of my fish with prazi prophylactically before going in the DT.

I’ve read that foxfaces are naturally resistant to ich and velvet but I’m not sure how true this is - is it necessary to treat with copper or is it safe to assume if I don’t see it after 30 days it’s not an issue?

Foxfaces tend to really be skittish in general and stress easily specially when in a small tank and when alone by themselves. If it’s eating while In qt, I would follow through a full qt before placing into display.
the reason they are presumed to be less prone to ich is because they shed their skin coating but that doesn’t give them protection against ich/velvet.