Now you're thinking!
It's just my opinion having had clowns with it. I still defer to Jay and vetteguy as the disease experts here but if their top dorsal are gets very cloudy with spots that's brook commonly referred to as clownfish disease
Just posting progress to document the experience. Setup a 10G QT with freshly mixed water at the same temp, PH and salinity as DT. This allowed me to skip acclimation and lessen stress on the fish.Hey guys. I’m 99% positive my clowns have ich but asking for advice. I’ve had my clowns for a month and a half. They are the only fish in the tank. About almost 2 weeks ago I started noticing the dreading tiny white spots which now have started covering the fish. Im not sure what to do. They’re still feeding great, very active and hungry. No weird behavior. I wonder if they are hardy enough to ride it through or should I setup a QT for them? Just afraid the QT will actually stress them out to the point they succumb to the disease. Any thoughts?
Here is a video and images that clearly show their white spots as they’re swimming
youtube.com
Just posting progress to document the experience. Setup a 10G QT with freshly mixed water at the same temp, PH and salinity as DT. This allowed me to skip acclimation and lessen stress on the fish.
Added a sponge from my DT with some bacteria. Will still monitor ammonia and do frequent water changes. Started dosing cupramine, however im spreading the doses the first 4 days so it’s less hard on the fish. They’re feeding well and seem very active.
Here is a video
June 2, 2023
Oh, I don’t think I mentioned Im using any Ammonia removers. Only way I’m controlling ammonia is through water changes and existing cycled sponge from DT sump.
Lavey meant to say Formalin. There are other options people have tried but, I don't know what they were atm; I'm sure someone will give you an idea.
Ahh, yeah.. that's true about the swimming. However, if they can do a Formalin dip that should handle everything.
I’ve just heard reports that the Hanna high range is difficult to use with Cupramine because it is dosed at a lower rate, near the low limit of that device.
For the copper checker, the accuracy range is +/- 0.05ppm & +/-5% of the reading. You are correct about the reliability of the Hanna checker at 0.5ppm Cu.
Im not sure what to make of it
im told Hanna Checker is the most reliable since color tests are more difficult and bound to user errors. Wouldn’t the user error on color tests compensate for the +/- 0.05 accuracy. Cupramine has to be at 0.5 to be effective. A reading of 0.45 or 0.55 would still be within that range
Im already at the 0.5 of cupramine, feel like changing treatments at this point would cause more harm than good? But agreed, would’ve definitely used coppersafe instead If i knew from the beginning. This was such an emergency scenario
Another progress update on the treatment. Almost 7 days into QT. I’m not seeing any white specs on the fish so guessing the Cupramine treatment is working. Surprised the adult tomots fell off this quickly? I know ich has a cycle and that’s why Im doing a 30 day treatment. Fish are swimming very well and are pretty hungry, always biting my fingertips. I chose to keep copper at 0.55 for any margin of error.Just posting progress to document the experience. Setup a 10G QT with freshly mixed water at the same temp, PH and salinity as DT. This allowed me to skip acclimation and lessen stress on the fish.
Added a sponge from my DT with some bacteria. Will still monitor ammonia and do frequent water changes. Started dosing cupramine, however im spreading the doses the first 4 days so it’s less hard on the fish. They’re feeding well and seem very active.
Here is a video
June 2, 2023
Yes. They are just going through their cycle. The copper kills the free swimming stage of Cryptocaryon irritans (Marine Ich) so the fish won't get re-infected. Copper doesn't affect the Trophonts (parasitic stage).
