Is undetectable nitrates even an issue if you have detectable phosphates?

Ironic_Water

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I know that having cratered nutrients can lead to problems... some corals like a bit of phosphate, for example, and very low nutrients can lead to dinos.

For a while now, I've been struggling with very low levels of nitrates - usually undetectable. However, my phosphate levels are good, around 0.06.

I clearly have a nitrate source of course, I feed a slurry of frozen food and coral foods like Roti Feast and phyto every day.

I do have some GHA growing on my rocks, maybe that's what is taking up my nitrate?

Anyways, rambling aside, should I even bother dosing nitrates to get a detectable amount? Is there a clear benefit to having detectable nitrates if phosphate is okay, or will it make my GHA problem even worse?
 
I know that having cratered nutrients can lead to problems... some corals like a bit of phosphate, for example, and very low nutrients can lead to dinos.

For a while now, I've been struggling with very low levels of nitrates - usually undetectable. However, my phosphate levels are good, around 0.06.

I clearly have a nitrate source of course, I feed a slurry of frozen food and coral foods like Roti Feast and phyto every day.

I do have some GHA growing on my rocks, maybe that's what is taking up my nitrate?

Anyways, rambling aside, should I even bother dosing nitrates to get a detectable amount? Is there a clear benefit to having detectable nitrates if phosphate is okay, or will it make my GHA problem even worse?
AMO no. Nitrate itself is just a reflection of N load and effectiveness of nitrifications and denitrification. As long as you feed animals they will probably get what they need. And if you still are afraid of N starvation I would dose organic N source, like coral food or maybe even urea.
 
very low nutrients can lead to dinos.
Look at corals to decide if they need food not your test kits, signs are pale or lack growth. Above is just false, dinoflagellate are not more adaptable to low nutrient conditions than other “algae” maybe even less so. Diatoms, for example, grow in my pool with chlorine, Cyanobacteria use n2 when no other nutrients are available and bacteria make trips to space and back.

Remove this from your mind, 0=dinos!
 
I know that having cratered nutrients can lead to problems... some corals like a bit of phosphate, for example, and very low nutrients can lead to dinos.

For a while now, I've been struggling with very low levels of nitrates - usually undetectable. However, my phosphate levels are good, around 0.06.

I clearly have a nitrate source of course, I feed a slurry of frozen food and coral foods like Roti Feast and phyto every day.

I do have some GHA growing on my rocks, maybe that's what is taking up my nitrate?

Anyways, rambling aside, should I even bother dosing nitrates to get a detectable amount? Is there a clear benefit to having detectable nitrates if phosphate is okay, or will it make my GHA problem even worse?

It is not possible from numbers alone to know if undetectable nitrate is allowing sufficient N bioavailability from other sources such as ammonia, urea, other organics and particulates.

My recommended nitrate of 5-50 ppm ensures there is adequate nitrate, and also reduces risks from dinos.
 

WHAT KIND OF SUBSTRATE ARE YOU RUNNING ON YOUR TANK?

  • Bare bottom

    Votes: 5 29.4%
  • A shallow bed of fine sand

    Votes: 3 17.6%
  • A shallow bed of coarser sand

    Votes: 3 17.6%
  • A deep sand bed

    Votes: 2 11.8%
  • Mixed substrate or varying sand depth

    Votes: 4 23.5%
  • Some other substrate (posted in the comments)

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • I don’t have a reef tank yet

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