Jason Fox Dipped a Monti Nudi in Bayer for 24hours and it didn't die

[NeverlosT]

My primary questions were about the lighting mentioned above and then I also wanted to ask about his barebottom tanks and wrasses, does he keep sandboxes for the wrasses to sleep in?

His systems seem relatively simple which is a great lesson, and I imagine extremely stable due to the water volume.

Thanks BigJohnny

 

[A4goulet]

Multiple hydrogen peroxide dips on my montis rid my system of monti nudis. Up to a 50/50 solution for 10 mins never killed my monti coral. Future coral addition will include multi stage dips. Bayer/h202/coral rx.

 

[Cment]

Funny this was brought up. We just found some zoa eating nudis on my daughters zoas in her new tank. We actually sucked several out. The kicker is we did a strong Revive dip before they went in the tank. Gonna do a flatwrom exit dip and watch them for more hatching out. Probably do several dips over the next few weeks. She didn't want to kill them so I had to wash them down the drain! I was happy to do so!

Revh, I had Zoa eating nudis once and the only thing that worked for them was flatworm exit. Dipped the zoa plugs outside the tank and literally watched the nudis melt into pieces.

 

[Cment]

I wonder what does he mean by blue actinic T5. Does he mean Blue Plus, or actual Actinic T5 bulbs? I wonder if the reefbrite strips are all royal blue or some UV?

I think he means blue actinic only. I know a coral farmer and he ran blue actinic leds for 10hrs/day with whites on for 2 hours of that 10 hr photoperiod and had AMAZING growth and coloration. Helps that he had almost 1000g total system as well...

 

[N4sty T4te]

Bayer doesn't kill anything that you want to rid your corals of.

5 ML per cup for 10 mins will smoke AEFW and red bugs. So not sure what your talking about.

 

[Brad Bessett]

Really have you killed aefw or nudis or zoa spiders? I've had 2 of the 3 major pests and it didn't do anything to them. All that I have killed with bayer is sps frags. To each their own, I've learned my lesson and will never use bayer again!!

There is something you aren't doing right then. I've never had a loss with Bayer other than pests.

 

[rck329]

I've watched this video like 4 times since a couple of weeks ago. I think there's a lot to take from it.

Simple methods. And you cannot argue his success.

Best part: "ph meter... I chucked it"

 

[Scorpius]

Funny how people freak out about Bayer. Most important tool to use when working with chemicals it the brain God gave you. I have yet to kill any coral with Bayer.

 

[BigJohnny]

My primary questions were about the lighting mentioned above and then I also wanted to ask about his barebottom tanks and wrasses, does he keep sandboxes for the wrasses to sleep in?

His systems seem relatively simple which is a great lesson, and I imagine extremely stable due to the water volume.

Thanks BigJohnny

I'd be interested about that as well, I love me some wrasses, but I have a sand bed. Hes making me consider barebottom and calcium reactor again as well...... No problem bud.

 

[BigJohnny]

Multiple hydrogen peroxide dips on my montis rid my system of monti nudis. Up to a 50/50 solution for 10 mins never killed my monti coral. Future coral addition will include multi stage dips. Bayer/h202/coral rx.

I once read an article by Justin Credible from Reef Gen on h202 dips and I think that's all he uses on zoas will no ill effects in varying concentrations. I think he even used 100%. I've used it to remove bryopsis or other "nuisance" algae from frag plugs but never as a dip. Guess I was doing 2 for 1 [emoji106]

Glad you got rid of dem nudis!

 

[BigJohnny]

I think he means blue actinic only. I know a coral farmer and he ran blue actinic leds for 10hrs/day with whites on for 2 hours of that 10 hr photoperiod and had AMAZING growth and coloration. Helps that he had almost 1000g total system as well...

Do you know of a blue actinic t5 bulb though? Only one I've seen is blue plus which is basically a juiced actinic with additional spectrum. The true actinic bulbs are usually purple ime.

 

[Mark Gray]

An this is news. Monti nudi's are really tough and not easy to kill found this out 25 years ago.

I hear you I found it out like 25 years ago too, Love todays dry rock lol

 

[GatorScott]

Really cool vid. It's amazing to hear people like Jason Fox speak about their tanks

 

[PSXerholic]

Well, Monti nudis are pretty robust.
I killed them with Coral RX Pro and was making sure under the microscope they are dead.
Here a thread from our local club I have published a while ago about that subject ;-)

Help, all my Montipora eating Nudibranches disappeared ;-o
Lol, guys this is a post from quite a while ago when I started my 210G in the first year, which I have never posted, but I find it very useful to know about this issue !!! Just found it back while doing a clean up on my computer ;-)


"So I got this Coral order placed and when my Monti arrived I was lucky as hell.
I had finally a few of these very exotic hard to keep critters on my livestock……yeahhhhhh

The underside of the coral had some matured Nudibranches on it. They looked crystal white like lil sandcorns. They appeared like the last Unicorns to me ;-) Could see even nests of eggs.
I was so exited. Anyways, the coral hosted these critters very well. But it was time to do then a coral dip, to make sure no unwanted pests are entering my system and QT tank.

So I dipped the Montipora in a dip of CoralRX PRO, exactly as recommended.
After the dip, I place the coral into the QT tank.
A few days later, what a surprise, all the other Montipora in the QT system were already hosted by these unicorn critters as well. Wow, how amazing.
Nevertheless, part of a good QT phase is considering multiple dipping phases.

So I took these now 3 Montis with the Nudibranches for another dip.
This time I wanted to make sure that no more pests will remain on the coral except the Nudibranches, which like to live in symbiotic relationship to the Monti species. So this time I dipped with 2x times the dose and took a microscope to make sure the nudis are all still alive. And they were pretty awesome moving under the scope on the first coral.
So I took the next coral and dipped it in 3x times the recommended dose and additionally for twice as long since I know now, that these nudis are really strong against that coral dip.
Well, after that dip, which might have been too much for the Nudis, I took a Nudi off the dip container and placed it in fresh saltwater over night.
It unfortunately died which I could confirm the next morning under the microscope.

So I placed the Montis back into the QT tank, and waited another 3 days, which allowed the Monti to attract all other lost Nudis in the QT back to the coral.
Only 2-3 Nudis were attracted, and I unfortunately forgot to reduce the concentration of the dip back to the normal recommendations, so they all died.

Even hoping their might some more in the tank, the 3 colonies did not attract anymore any Montipora eating nudibranchs after that.

So they were all gone ;-(
Not sure what I did wrong, but be careful with these terrible dips, they kill Nudis if 3x used as much as supposed to be, and corals being dipped for 2x the time that is recommended. The Coral looked fine afterwards, but not the Nudis !!!"

Happy Reefing,
-Andre

 

[N4sty T4te]

There is something you aren't doing right then. I've never had a loss with Bayer other than pests.

I've never had a single issue with Bayer as well. Based on my experience it's far less harsh than Coral RX. Most of my acros even keep their polyps out until they get hit with flow.

 

[TL Reefs]

Do you know of a blue actinic t5 bulb though? Only one I've seen is blue plus which is basically a juiced actinic with additional spectrum. The true actinic bulbs are usually purple ime.

ATI makes an actinic bulb, it's called "true actinic". However, you are correct and it is not blue. It peaks in the 421nm range, and royal blue is usually 455-460nm. The ATI Blue Plus peaks at 460. So the confusion comes with saying actinic blue. Describing colors can be pretty difficult though. That's why I like referring to the wavelength of the color when describing lighting. Or even better, just say the exact bulb that is being used.

 

[BigJohnny]

ATI makes an actinic bulb, it's called "true actinic". However, you are correct and it is not blue. It peaks in the 421nm range, and royal blue is usually 455-460nm. The ATI Blue Plus peaks at 460. So the confusion comes with saying actinic blue. Describing colors can be pretty difficult though. That's why I like referring to the wavelength of the color when describing lighting. Or even better, just say the exact bulb that is being used.

Exactly. I personally use 4 Blue Plus, 2 True Actinic, and 2 Kessil A350w so I am very familiar with both bulbs. I did find that Giesemann makes an Actinic Blue t5 called "PowerChrome Actinic Blue", so its possible that is what he uses, however it peaks at 420nm. It does say it has a range of 400-510 though and based on the spectral graph on bulk reef supply, the 460nm peak is pretty close to the 420nm. It looks very similar to the blue plus with possibly more actinic at 420nm.

 

[jkopfishman]

I put zoa eating nudis in Bayer, in coral rx, and seachem reef dip as an experiment. 48 hours later the ones in the Bayer and the ones in coral rx were still alive and the ones in the seachem reef dip died within 15 minutes. Just my little experiment. My 2 cents.

 

[PSXerholic]

I put zoa eating nudis in Bayer, in coral rx, and seachem reef dip as an experiment. 48 hours later the ones in the Bayer and the ones in coral rx were still alive and the ones in the seachem reef dip died within 15 minutes. Just my little experiment. My 2 cents.

THX for the feedback !

 

[justin.k.nelson]

Well, Monti nudis are pretty robust.
I killed them with Coral RX Pro and was making sure under the microscope they are dead.
Here a thread from our local club I have published a while ago about that subject ;-)

Help, all my Montipora eating Nudibranches disappeared ;-o
Lol, guys this is a post from quite a while ago when I started my 210G in the first year, which I have never posted, but I find it very useful to know about this issue !!! Just found it back while doing a clean up on my computer ;-)


"So I got this Coral order placed and when my Monti arrived I was lucky as hell.
I had finally a few of these very exotic hard to keep critters on my livestock……yeahhhhhh

The underside of the coral had some matured Nudibranches on it. They looked crystal white like lil sandcorns. They appeared like the last Unicorns to me ;-) Could see even nests of eggs.
I was so exited. Anyways, the coral hosted these critters very well. But it was time to do then a coral dip, to make sure no unwanted pests are entering my system and QT tank.

So I dipped the Montipora in a dip of CoralRX PRO, exactly as recommended.
After the dip, I place the coral into the QT tank.
A few days later, what a surprise, all the other Montipora in the QT system were already hosted by these unicorn critters as well. Wow, how amazing.
Nevertheless, part of a good QT phase is considering multiple dipping phases.

So I took these now 3 Montis with the Nudibranches for another dip.
This time I wanted to make sure that no more pests will remain on the coral except the Nudibranches, which like to live in symbiotic relationship to the Monti species. So this time I dipped with 2x times the dose and took a microscope to make sure the nudis are all still alive. And they were pretty awesome moving under the scope on the first coral.
So I took the next coral and dipped it in 3x times the recommended dose and additionally for twice as long since I know now, that these nudis are really strong against that coral dip.
Well, after that dip, which might have been too much for the Nudis, I took a Nudi off the dip container and placed it in fresh saltwater over night.
It unfortunately died which I could confirm the next morning under the microscope.

So I placed the Montis back into the QT tank, and waited another 3 days, which allowed the Monti to attract all other lost Nudis in the QT back to the coral.
Only 2-3 Nudis were attracted, and I unfortunately forgot to reduce the concentration of the dip back to the normal recommendations, so they all died.

Even hoping their might some more in the tank, the 3 colonies did not attract anymore any Montipora eating nudibranchs after that.

So they were all gone ;-(
Not sure what I did wrong, but be careful with these terrible dips, they kill Nudis if 3x used as much as supposed to be, and corals being dipped for 2x the time that is recommended. The Coral looked fine afterwards, but not the Nudis !!!"

Happy Reefing,
-Andre

For months I was struggling to rid myself of these pests. I am a huge supporter of using Bayer but I just couldn't get the right dosage to truly kill Nudis. When I read your dosage on Rx Pro, I thought what else do I have to lose at this point. So I went out and bought some Coral Rx Pro and followed the dosage of 3x the amount and 2x the dip time. Sure enough, I saw Nudi's floating like crazy and appeared to be lifeless. I took it one step further and caught some floating nudis and put them in a fresh tupperware cup of SW and monitored the remains for any movement. After an hr or so, there was still no movement. I waited about 3 days before dosing again and I couldn't find any remains of any nudis in my tank. I just waited another 5 days and did my 3rd dip and still nothing. I'm going to wait another 5-7 days and do my last dip before observation for 2 weeks before I break QT. So far this dosage is extremely promising. I will say that my corals due get agitated but I think this is compounded by their already weakened state by the nudis.