JoJo's IM 40L AIO - Please, step into my office

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JoJosReef

JoJosReef

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Exciting times! Getting wet this week!

I've updated the tank/stand design in the first post:
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Major changes are:
1. I tested mixing Reef Nutrition foods together and kept them undisturbed in the fridge for at least a week to see if the different components settle or stay in suspension, and I'm happy to say that the latter was observed--THUS, I will simplify refrigerated feeding to 1 bottle of Reef Nutrition cocktail with RODI flushing the tubing via a simple T barb fitting.

2. I tested AFR in the fridge overnight to see if the components precipitate, and am happy to say that they did not, so I will now dose AFR from the mini fridge, THUS allowing me to use only one Reef Factory X3 doser.

3. I switched from the AutoAqua AWC/ATO combo to only have an IM TI Hydrofill ATO (but not buying their super expensive RODI container). In the end, I chickened out of the AWC, because it was the biggest risk of overflowing onto the office carpet. I also don't particularly trust the optical sensors and like the idea of the titantium closed circuit switch instead--given, any electrical control component can fail. In the future, I plan to put the ATO on one of the AutoAqua smart level security plugs to turn it off if the system breaks and runs nonstop.

4. Added the AI Prime 16 HD in the middle of the tank so I'll have 3 lights for better coverage. Maybe eventually work on a different LED setup, but for now I think this will work nicely. And all LEDs already owned.

5. Switched form an Inkbird/Finnex titanium heating system as primary to an IM Helio heater set to 77F as primary with the inkbird as a failsafe if the Helio breaks (kicking on the Finnex at 75F) and the upper temp still working to initiate fans when temps reaches 78F. I'm still working out what to do if the heater/controller were to break and just heat nonstop.

6. Bought a 3D printed platform for the Eheim autofeeder, which gives it a nice and clean look and perfectly situates the feeder over the screen.


Next stop: cable/tube management!
 
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JoJosReef

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Upcoming DIY project: hanging macroalgae baskets!

Concept: suspend small pieces of rubble or platforms (e.g. tiles) above the sand bed/rock space with decorative red macroalgae "planted"

Rationale: allow for decorative macroalgae in display tank without urchins and snails (especially turbos) reaching the macros

Approach:
1. Affix two clear acrylic rods to the front and back of the tank laterally above the water line. For example:
==> method of keeping rods fixed in development--thinking maybe magnetic curved platforms to rest ends of 35" rods on top of, which would allow for changes when needed; just need to figure out how to do it!
2. Using fishing line, measure length needed for 4-point connection of rubble/tile to rods
3. File grooves in rod to hold/tie fishing line in place
4. Connect fishing line to 4 points in rubble/tile
5. Glue on macro
6. Watch urchin and turbos scream bloody murder

Stocking: I want one for my Botrycladia for sure, and one for regular red gracilaria. I'm not sure if the Gracilaria hayi will get eaten by a tux urchin or turbos, but I might have one for the pom pom as well.

@Projects with Sam What do you think? Feasible and easy enough for a novice DIYer?
 
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JoJosReef

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Day 2, and the Fiji Mud is not clarifying:
1680126555993.png


I switched out the floss in the right chamber for the IM sock to try and get more gunk out. Originally I wanted the gunk, but since it isn't settling, I want it out. Will likely start doing large water changes. I'm sure the good bacteria and stuff has already started taking residence in the sand bed and the rocks in any case.

Speaking of which, I added a small bottle of Fritz turbo yesterday along with the Fiji Mud, and today I am measuring ~0.2ppm ammonium, ~0.05-0.1ppm Nitrite and ~5ppm Nitrate (Red Sea). So, looks like there's some good organic decay in just the Fiji Mud! Should help with kicking off the cycle. I haven't started adding Tim's ammonium and won't for as long as I see that there is some in there. Will add my gulf rock rubble when this mud clears.

I tested out the Maxspect 2k gyre for the first time, and it certainly moves the water and the sand around at 100%. I think it will work nicely once I have the tank full of stuff and settled.

And one final note. The sand is 20 lbs Natural Bahamas Oolitic Aragonite Coarse Sand (1- 2 mm) - Pisces Aqua from SaltwaterAquarium. It has a lot of very small floating white bivalve shells in it. Closed shells that crumble if you squeeze them, but they are floating and going right into my AIO chambers. Not too happy about that. Otherwise, the sand seems to settle pretty well.
 
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JoJosReef

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FYI, I found a quick 'n dirty solution for the Noopsyche Minis not extending to the center of the display. See the separate thread:

 
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Let there be light!!

PXL_20230405_005959727.jpg

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Zip tied controllers onto pullout basket. Still need to make the wire wasp nest go away.
PXL_20230405_005806497.jpg


Added a few macros. Still a bit of ammonia and nitrites/nitrates on the rise, but that shouldn't bother the macros at all. By Friday I might be ready to transfer the 10g!
 
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Currently have 1 of 3 lights installed, dry rocks in and seeding with Fritz and gulf rock rubble, dry sand in seeded with Fiji Mud (very clouding and took 2 100% water changes to clear up), and now have Gracilaria, Codium, Halimeda and Botrycladia in the tank. Ammonia reading about 0.4ppm. Nitrites higher than Red Sea test at 1+ppm. Nitrates looking around 10-20ppm.

That said, cycling is just to get the dry rock going a bit. The current plan is to get the water at parameters equivalent to my 10g tank and transfer the entire rock stucture on Monday! This will effectively end the cycle, as the rock will cover all current bioload and then some. Wowsers, gonna be all hands on deck for this.

In the 10g, emeralds have been working hard on the bubble algae and making a good dent in it. I will be popping and removing as much as possible Thurs/Fri. Running UV. Don't know if it helps or not, but I like to imagine it is killing bubble algae gametes/spores that circulate.

The 13.5g will follow the 10g once everything looks settled. Will start by moving corals bit by bit. Then fish and inverts. Plan is to abandon the 13.5g rocks, but I will likely sift the sand for keeper worms and bring some of the sand over.
 
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New FTS. The tank transfer was a bit of a disaster yesterday. The main rock structure in the 10g broke midway between tanks, and I didn't have enough reef putty to really put it back together. It kept falling apart. The mint potato chip pavona took a hit and broke into 3 parts, which are currently lying about in the rock islands. Firefish and blenny freaked out, naturally, but the firefish ate today and the blenny looks like it is making its way out of hiding. I will leave things as is for a week while I wait for new reef putty and other do-dads. The black widow is the hardest right now. It is still in the 10g on a bubble algae-covered rock and won't get off. Been blasting it with flow for about an hour and it just moved over half an inch. Might move on to ice cubes on the foot. Need it transferred today, because I want to put the AI Prime in its spot. Slowly but surely, I guess.

1681333581678.png
 
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Well, flow-basde and ice-based methods to remove the black widow failed and only ticked off my most expensive inhabitant.

In the end, I scraped as much bubble algae and ulva off the rock as I could, sprayed it with peroxide in the areas away from the nem, and put it back in the 10g. If it is still in the same place tomorrow I will do a round 2 clean of the rock and move it over to the 40g +/- where I want the nem, see if it moves by itself.

It is a very small BTA, so I didn't try to make a mini nem cannon. Hope the bothering it took today doesn't send it in a death spiral.
 
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Some new photos. Still working on Transfer 1 of 2. Right now everything spread out all over the sand bed, so need to get some organization before bringing in the second tank!

Blenny found the frag plug hole drilled in this rock a suitable substitute for his barnacle (which is currently also in the sand bed):
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Still a bit stressed from the move (also doesn't like the camera):
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Awesome build thread! Have the 40IM except in the cube variation and will be following and comparing my equipment to yours. I like your idea of the controller basket. I mounted one on the door and kind of regret it. It want to pull the door closed on the stand and if I was to add the two for the gyre it certainly not be enough room.

- Same idea as you, I swapped out the Eheim for the IM heater. The heating element for the 200w is only like 7 inches I think so can easily fit in one of the back chambers and be less of an eyesore.

- I've learned a lot over the years but am still a complete novice on dosing mag/cal/etc levels, will follow along and maybe copy you too on that.
 
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Awesome build thread! Have the 40IM except in the cube variation and will be following and comparing my equipment to yours. I like your idea of the controller basket. I mounted one on the door and kind of regret it. It want to pull the door closed on the stand and if I was to add the two for the gyre it certainly not be enough room.

- Same idea as you, I swapped out the Eheim for the IM heater. The heating element for the 200w is only like 7 inches I think so can easily fit in one of the back chambers and be less of an eyesore.

- I've learned a lot over the years but am still a complete novice on dosing mag/cal/etc levels, will follow along and maybe copy you too on that.
Thanks! I've been dosing my 10g and 13.5g with All-For-Reef, 1) to keep it simple, 2) I'm not consistent with testing. Maybe one day when I get a machine that reliably tests all three.

This week, I am setting up the fridge and the x3 Reef Factory doser. I checked All-For-Reef and it keeps several days in the fridge without precipitating all the minerals out, so I will use one head pumping out All-For-Reef into the tank daily and two heads to pump out the liquid food/RODI flush. Will post on how it works out!

Like the IM heater. Just working on how to put in a safeguard for high temp if it goes haywire and starts heating nonstop. I have a backup Finnex on an Inkbird set to a pretty low temp if the IM heater breaks and stops heating--that's a carry-over from my 10g.
 

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Tank is looking good! I am anxious to get to your point.

How are the K7 minis treating you? I haven't messed with mine too much, but I was definitely struggling with connecting the app for a bit. Still haven't done it, but I've got time!
 
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Tank is looking good! I am anxious to get to your point.

How are the K7 minis treating you? I haven't messed with mine too much, but I was definitely struggling with connecting the app for a bit. Still haven't done it, but I've got time!
I found it easier to use the AP mode and just connect my phone directly to the light to make setting adjustments, which are infrequent! I love the lights. The AI prime is getting replaced by my second K7 mini once I get the Evo transferred over. I might put the AI in the middle to blast the center a bit more or just keep it as backup.
 

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