TFossor
New Member
I haven't gotten back into the hobby for YEARS, but saw an opportunity for a beautiful 180gallon semicircular acrylic with stand on craigslist locally, and had to get it. I'm inventorying everything, trying to figure out what the previous owner did and did incorrectly, and reading everything I can get my hands on, so I can (re)do the plumbing, and learn a thing or two along the way.
INVENTORY:
-A 180 gallon Aquariumsource semicircular tank, canopy, and stand, with 6 holes drilled at the top. 4 Drain holes, 1 7/8" diameter and 2 Return holes, 1 5/8" diameter. A couple of prominent scratches on the front. Not deep but long.
PROPOSED: I already own Novus 1,2,3 (for another hobby), so will use to buff out scratches.
Should I an orbital buffer or is the risk of damage too great, hence just use elbow grease?
What kind of material should I use to buff the Novus 3 in?
-Canopy with two Sunpaq Retrofit Lighting Kits installed, either Model #1601, 1602, 1603, 1604, 1606, 1611, 1612, 1613, 1614, or 1615. Unsure which bulbs. Will figure this out later. Way low on priority list. Just listing it here for my own personal organization.
FILTER/SUMP:
-A ProClear Model 400 Sump w/o Prefilter, 43"x13"x13" (max volume 31.4 gallons), with labelled fill line corresponding to 7" height, or 16.9 gallons, rated at up to 400 gallons, flow rates up to 1600gph.
ANALYSIS: Estimating tank (180g) plus sump (app 16g) plus lines (app 4g), gives total volume of about 200g. Running at 3-5x volume per hour through filter would mean desired flowthrough of about 1000gph (allowing for real world inefficiencies). Also, by geometry of this tank, 6.11 gallons per inch of height, the max sump capacity above normal fill line give reserve sump excess capacity of about (31.4g-16.9g=) 14.5g, which translates to 2.4" height above the drain/return lines, in case of power outage and the water flows back (actually there's more room because this doesn't take into account volume displacement due to aquarium contents/decorations, but I want a rough idea to avoid mishap). However, looking at the tank, I need at least 4" aquarium height excess capacity of water that the sump can hold in case of power outage, which translates into 6.11gallons per inch x 4"= 24.44, call it 25 gallons of excess capacity. Max sump capacity is 31.4g, so that means only about 6.5 gallons to the fill line, to maintiain reserve, which translates to only a paltry 2.7 inches allowable fill line height for the sump!
So, in order to maintain enough reserve volume in the sump to accomodate the volume of water that will flow down to it by gravity effects via the drains in the event of a power outage, while still having enough water in the show tank itself to actually conceal the water line to a viewer, one must have a sump that only has a depth of 2.7 inches... which might not be enough for the submersible pumps anyway... Hmm, is my logic flawed here?
PUMPS:
-One Rio 600 (163gph @ 1ft) (I think for the Coralife UV sterilizer, below).
-One Rio 20HF, rated at 1290gph, functional.
-One Rio 32HF, rated at 1920gph, very much dead (impeller FROZEN in. My guess is that, given the numbers and if my math is correct, the previous owner at some point had BOTH pumps hooked up, vastly exceeded the rate of the drains, got the sump low volume enough that it burned out, probably flooded the main tank, ****** the family off, and sold the tank. To me.).
ANALYSIS: For the goal of 5x circulating volume, I need 1000gph circulation. From what I've read on calculating head pressure for submersible pump in a sump: height needed is 4.67ft, divided by two for gravity effects of filter assisting on intake side=2.335ft. Return tubing ID 0.75" adds about 1' for every 90degree turn (one in this case)=3.335ft. There is no reduction along the return line in diameter, which would otherwise further boost head pressure in my case. The return is about 0.2ft beneath the waterline in the main tank, adding another 0.2ft to the running total=3.535ft, plus a 2ft safety fudge factor, leaves me with about a 5.5ft head pressure. I'm trying to get 1000gph flow between TWO return lines, hence TWO pumps, each needing 500gph (this builds in some redundancy in case one of the pumps fail). Looking at Rio's flow charts, it looks like 500gph @ 5.5ft is right in the middle of the Rio 26HF flow curve (with some excess capacity built in in case I need to drive the tank on just ONE pump due to failure. So I think I should purchase TWO Rio 26HF pumps to drive the Return in this tank to get the numbers I want (and hold onto the salvaged Rio 20HF as backup).
EXTRAS:
-One Coralife Turbo-Twist 6x 18 watt UV sterilizer, rated at 200-400gph, for up to 250gallon tanks. Never used one of these before. Have no idea how to work in into system. I think this was driven by the Rio 600.
-One Red Sea's Berlin Skimmer (I think "Classic", not "Hang-on" model), including a Red Sea Skimmer Pump, whose specs are illegible on the label. Never used one.
ANALYSIS: I have NO idea where and how to work these into my system. Never used them, and it's obvious they go with the sump. Just not sure how.
Now this is where I start needing LOTS of HELP:
-Various plumbing stuff:
(1) Bulkheads. Appears previous owner(s) used Schedule 40 bulkheads instead of Schedule 80, though the holes drilled into the acrylic tank appear to be for Schedule 80. The four DRAIN bulkheads are 1" ID. The two RETURNS are 0.75" ID. have All the lines were with clear vinyl. The four DRAIN BULKHEADS are ID 1", with both flange and base SLIP. The two RETURN BULKHEADS are ID 0.75", with both flange and base SLIP. At least I think they are all SLIP at the base, because all have SOLID PVC STUMPS STILL CEMENTED IN (sawed off at the base of the bulkhead, which apparently was necessary to break down and transport the aquarium).
ANALYSIS: Get new bulkheads that correspond to the drilled holes in the aquarium. That is, four 1" SCHEDULE 80 bulkheads for the drains (requiring 1 7/8" aquarium holes), and two 0.75" SCHEDULE 80 bulkheads for the returns (requiring 1 5/8" aquarium holes), NOT schedule 40 (though schedule 40 interfaces for the rest of the plumbing should work just fine and connect to the schedule 80 bulkheads withouth difficulty).
Also, I would strongly prefer NOT to PVC cement pipes in, in case I need to adjust, so get FLANGE AND BASE ALL THREADED ON ALL BULKHEADS. Is this a good idea, or am I inviting leaks?
When screwing PVC into threaded bulkheads, do I need to treat the threading with sealant ( http://www.laco.com/productDetail.aspx?ProductID=121 ie Plasto-Joint Stik plastic thread sealant for example)?
Does silicone aquarium sealant have any role in bulkheads (not silicone lubricant for gaskets, which seems to be controversial)?
(2) Tubing. Previous owner went with clear vinyl tubing (1"ID Drains; 0.75"ID Returns), and looked to have some serious sunlight exposure, as the tubes are coated with algae on the inside. Yuck.
ANALYSIS: Will use FLEXIBLE (OPAQUE) PVC for all flexible tubing needs.
CONTINUED NEXT POST...
INVENTORY:
-A 180 gallon Aquariumsource semicircular tank, canopy, and stand, with 6 holes drilled at the top. 4 Drain holes, 1 7/8" diameter and 2 Return holes, 1 5/8" diameter. A couple of prominent scratches on the front. Not deep but long.
PROPOSED: I already own Novus 1,2,3 (for another hobby), so will use to buff out scratches.
Should I an orbital buffer or is the risk of damage too great, hence just use elbow grease?
What kind of material should I use to buff the Novus 3 in?
-Canopy with two Sunpaq Retrofit Lighting Kits installed, either Model #1601, 1602, 1603, 1604, 1606, 1611, 1612, 1613, 1614, or 1615. Unsure which bulbs. Will figure this out later. Way low on priority list. Just listing it here for my own personal organization.
FILTER/SUMP:
-A ProClear Model 400 Sump w/o Prefilter, 43"x13"x13" (max volume 31.4 gallons), with labelled fill line corresponding to 7" height, or 16.9 gallons, rated at up to 400 gallons, flow rates up to 1600gph.
ANALYSIS: Estimating tank (180g) plus sump (app 16g) plus lines (app 4g), gives total volume of about 200g. Running at 3-5x volume per hour through filter would mean desired flowthrough of about 1000gph (allowing for real world inefficiencies). Also, by geometry of this tank, 6.11 gallons per inch of height, the max sump capacity above normal fill line give reserve sump excess capacity of about (31.4g-16.9g=) 14.5g, which translates to 2.4" height above the drain/return lines, in case of power outage and the water flows back (actually there's more room because this doesn't take into account volume displacement due to aquarium contents/decorations, but I want a rough idea to avoid mishap). However, looking at the tank, I need at least 4" aquarium height excess capacity of water that the sump can hold in case of power outage, which translates into 6.11gallons per inch x 4"= 24.44, call it 25 gallons of excess capacity. Max sump capacity is 31.4g, so that means only about 6.5 gallons to the fill line, to maintiain reserve, which translates to only a paltry 2.7 inches allowable fill line height for the sump!
So, in order to maintain enough reserve volume in the sump to accomodate the volume of water that will flow down to it by gravity effects via the drains in the event of a power outage, while still having enough water in the show tank itself to actually conceal the water line to a viewer, one must have a sump that only has a depth of 2.7 inches... which might not be enough for the submersible pumps anyway... Hmm, is my logic flawed here?
PUMPS:
-One Rio 600 (163gph @ 1ft) (I think for the Coralife UV sterilizer, below).
-One Rio 20HF, rated at 1290gph, functional.
-One Rio 32HF, rated at 1920gph, very much dead (impeller FROZEN in. My guess is that, given the numbers and if my math is correct, the previous owner at some point had BOTH pumps hooked up, vastly exceeded the rate of the drains, got the sump low volume enough that it burned out, probably flooded the main tank, ****** the family off, and sold the tank. To me.).
ANALYSIS: For the goal of 5x circulating volume, I need 1000gph circulation. From what I've read on calculating head pressure for submersible pump in a sump: height needed is 4.67ft, divided by two for gravity effects of filter assisting on intake side=2.335ft. Return tubing ID 0.75" adds about 1' for every 90degree turn (one in this case)=3.335ft. There is no reduction along the return line in diameter, which would otherwise further boost head pressure in my case. The return is about 0.2ft beneath the waterline in the main tank, adding another 0.2ft to the running total=3.535ft, plus a 2ft safety fudge factor, leaves me with about a 5.5ft head pressure. I'm trying to get 1000gph flow between TWO return lines, hence TWO pumps, each needing 500gph (this builds in some redundancy in case one of the pumps fail). Looking at Rio's flow charts, it looks like 500gph @ 5.5ft is right in the middle of the Rio 26HF flow curve (with some excess capacity built in in case I need to drive the tank on just ONE pump due to failure. So I think I should purchase TWO Rio 26HF pumps to drive the Return in this tank to get the numbers I want (and hold onto the salvaged Rio 20HF as backup).
EXTRAS:
-One Coralife Turbo-Twist 6x 18 watt UV sterilizer, rated at 200-400gph, for up to 250gallon tanks. Never used one of these before. Have no idea how to work in into system. I think this was driven by the Rio 600.
-One Red Sea's Berlin Skimmer (I think "Classic", not "Hang-on" model), including a Red Sea Skimmer Pump, whose specs are illegible on the label. Never used one.
ANALYSIS: I have NO idea where and how to work these into my system. Never used them, and it's obvious they go with the sump. Just not sure how.
Now this is where I start needing LOTS of HELP:
-Various plumbing stuff:
(1) Bulkheads. Appears previous owner(s) used Schedule 40 bulkheads instead of Schedule 80, though the holes drilled into the acrylic tank appear to be for Schedule 80. The four DRAIN bulkheads are 1" ID. The two RETURNS are 0.75" ID. have All the lines were with clear vinyl. The four DRAIN BULKHEADS are ID 1", with both flange and base SLIP. The two RETURN BULKHEADS are ID 0.75", with both flange and base SLIP. At least I think they are all SLIP at the base, because all have SOLID PVC STUMPS STILL CEMENTED IN (sawed off at the base of the bulkhead, which apparently was necessary to break down and transport the aquarium).
ANALYSIS: Get new bulkheads that correspond to the drilled holes in the aquarium. That is, four 1" SCHEDULE 80 bulkheads for the drains (requiring 1 7/8" aquarium holes), and two 0.75" SCHEDULE 80 bulkheads for the returns (requiring 1 5/8" aquarium holes), NOT schedule 40 (though schedule 40 interfaces for the rest of the plumbing should work just fine and connect to the schedule 80 bulkheads withouth difficulty).
Also, I would strongly prefer NOT to PVC cement pipes in, in case I need to adjust, so get FLANGE AND BASE ALL THREADED ON ALL BULKHEADS. Is this a good idea, or am I inviting leaks?
When screwing PVC into threaded bulkheads, do I need to treat the threading with sealant ( http://www.laco.com/productDetail.aspx?ProductID=121 ie Plasto-Joint Stik plastic thread sealant for example)?
Does silicone aquarium sealant have any role in bulkheads (not silicone lubricant for gaskets, which seems to be controversial)?
(2) Tubing. Previous owner went with clear vinyl tubing (1"ID Drains; 0.75"ID Returns), and looked to have some serious sunlight exposure, as the tubes are coated with algae on the inside. Yuck.
ANALYSIS: Will use FLEXIBLE (OPAQUE) PVC for all flexible tubing needs.
CONTINUED NEXT POST...
