By chance could you show me a photo of which roller your talking about? I have the newer version so I have nothing to compare it to the way way it used to be before they changed the location. Are you talking about the first or second roller guide? Would love to see the modification.
Very smart idea. I will give it a try in a few days. Appreciate it. One of the things I did with mine is I glued the plate gasket in place because I notice that it moves a little out of place with water flow and allowed water to seep thru.So here you go Steve.
Please be aware that this is for a DI-4 and I'm not sure if the spacing/tolerance between the roller guide and assembly wall will be the same for a DI-7 so tubing variance should be considered.
I used 1/2" OD / 3/8" ID silicone tubing cut to fit the inside of the top hinged frame assembly width that is parallel to the roller guide.
So this is the tubing stuffed between the 2nd roller guide and the front opening of the top frame. The solid corner layout keeps the tubing in place. I further utilized an old ceramic impeller shaft that happened to fit between the roller guide holder and hinged part of the lid. This did 2 thing s for me, it kept the top assembly from opening on it's hinges which I hate because then you have to make sure the fleece is not pinched when placing back into the sock hole (I have enough clearance to pull my unit out without having to hinge it 90º) and it also gave me an avenue to adjust how much tension was applied. If I move the impeller shaft up it would have more tension on the fleece and down it would have less. I don't know if you need this since it might not be easy to find something like that lying around and have the length required for a DI-7. The silicone tubing might just do it but at least you know what you would need to create more tension if required.
You had inquired about the older or original design vs the present design, I just happen to have an extra original cage to show you the difference in the roller guide height. As I had mentioned earlier, the original design kept the fleece more taut in the cage area because of the radical 90º turn IMO but also most likely attributed to tearing/snagging also.
Hope this helps :)
So, because the Klir-7 is a little different besides size than the Klir-4, I was unable to copy your modification using rubber tubing but based upon your modification it gave me an idea to make another roller that will allow the fleece to lay flat. I checked the tension and by feel there is no difference, so the motor should not struggle. I will put it in the sump tomorrow and test it out but it should work fine.So here you go Steve.
Please be aware that this is for a DI-4 and I'm not sure if the spacing/tolerance between the roller guide and assembly wall will be the same for a DI-7 so tubing variance should be considered.
I used 1/2" OD / 3/8" ID silicone tubing cut to fit the inside of the top hinged frame assembly width that is parallel to the roller guide.
So this is the tubing stuffed between the 2nd roller guide and the front opening of the top frame. The solid corner layout keeps the tubing in place. I further utilized an old ceramic impeller shaft that happened to fit between the roller guide holder and hinged part of the lid. This did 2 thing s for me, it kept the top assembly from opening on it's hinges which I hate because then you have to make sure the fleece is not pinched when placing back into the sock hole (I have enough clearance to pull my unit out without having to hinge it 90º) and it also gave me an avenue to adjust how much tension was applied. If I move the impeller shaft up it would have more tension on the fleece and down it would have less. I don't know if you need this since it might not be easy to find something like that lying around and have the length required for a DI-7. The silicone tubing might just do it but at least you know what you would need to create more tension if required.
You had inquired about the older or original design vs the present design, I just happen to have an extra original cage to show you the difference in the roller guide height. As I had mentioned earlier, the original design kept the fleece more taut in the cage area because of the radical 90º turn IMO but also most likely attributed to tearing/snagging also.
Hope this helps :)
Water level is 1/2" from the base plate so that was not the issue. I could physically see the water passing by on the backside of the fleece especially during return pump restarts after feed modes. Don't quote me on this but the older units used to have the roller further back not allowing water to bypass but due to complaints of fleece tearing supposedly due to friction they moved the 2nd roller more forward at least from what I have heard and the photos and videos I have seen.
This is threaded with the original roller and as you can see it is physically impossible for water not to enter the back side of the fleece due to the gaps where water can flow. Just saying.
I see what you getting at, but what your showing is with no tension on the fleece from the water. I am not trying to argue, just relating my 2 years of experience with it. I have not had any of the issues you are having so I was just trying to help.
I agree that some of the issues people have are self inflicted especially when it comes to the the sensor. Splash is not the fault of the Klir lol. I understand what you are saying about no tension on the fleece from water but water tension will not help the issue in my view. If the fleece is not lying flat, the detritus will collect on the backside of the fleece and over time when the fleece advances it is now under water and because the water is being pushed outward it washes that detritus that was on the outside of the fleece into the sump. It's just like turning a filter sock inside out and running water thru it.
All based on your idea. I am also thinking about adding some thin Lexan that I have on hand too the opening to also reduce the amount of detritus that could get to the outside of the fleece. Will make threading a new roll a challenge but it can be done. Also still thinking about modifying the other side to make the fleece lay more flat.
No modifications to mine other than sanding any sharp edges on the fleece guides.
Looks like I have the newer design. The older design does look interesting. I just don't have an issue with a bunch of stuff getting past the roller. Below is a picture of my unit and the chamber below it. This is about 6 weeks or so of accumulation.
