Leak test on a 180

[cba191]

Is it as critical that the tank is level for a leak test as it is for final placement?

 

[fishguy242]

Yes

 

[UncommonSense]

Is it as critical that the tank is level for a leak test as it is for final placement?

It is only critical that the stand rests flat, even if slightly out of level, it needs to be consistently sloped that way across the entire stand… if you have any high or low corners, the stand will twist, translating that to the tank!

you’re loading it up with a LOT of water weight, and leaving it full for days!

Try checking the (ideally concrete) floor around where you’re working with a level for a spot that’s fairly flat for the leak test… barring that, get a box of shims and use them judiciously to shim the stand level!

 

[cba191]

It is only critical that the stand rests flat, even if slightly out of level, it needs to be consistently sloped that way across the entire stand… if you have any high or low corners, the stand will twist, translating that to the tank!

you’re loading it up with a LOT of water weight, and leaving it full for days!

Try checking the (ideally concrete) floor around where you’re working with a level for a spot that’s fairly flat for the leak test… barring that, get a box of shims and use them judiciously to shim the stand level!

With the shims, they support the perimeter, what do you do about the center?

 

[UncommonSense]

With the shims, they support the perimeter, what do you do about the center?

Aah, your stand has center supports then?

This becomes a pain…

If possible (depending on stand bottom design), you can lay a row of shims in the open spaces between the center supports, then set the stand in place, shim the perimeter, and slide in a flat, thin object in from the perimeter to push your row(s) of shims for the center supports in snug!

I’ve had my best luck making my own long shims out of 2x4, shaving/sanding them down to fit where needed, or just building a wood frame to sit under everything if the floor is so bad that there’s low spots in a 24” span…

That said, I’ve had the wood frame option fail on me to some extent when put into permanent service; when I restarted my 180G, I poured a new 3.5” thick concrete pad for it on top of the terrible, sloped existing concrete…

Barring a better finished section of concrete to leak test on somewhere else, this could be worth getting some self leveling floor underlayment cement, or thinset cement to float across the low spots… not only does it make the leak test easy to set up, but it leaves you with a permanent flat section of floor!

 

[cba191]

With the shims, they support the perimeter, what do you do about the center?

Aah, your stand has center supports then?

This becomes a pain…

If possible (depending on stand bottom design), you can lay a row of shims in the open spaces between the center supports, then set the stand in place, shim the perimeter, and slide in a flat, thin object in from the perimeter to push your row(s) of shims for the center supports in snug!

I’ve had my best luck making my own long shims out of 2x4, shaving/sanding them down to fit where needed, or just building a wood frame to sit under everything if the floor is so bad that there’s low spots in a 24” span…

That said, I’ve had the wood frame option fail on me to some extent when put into permanent service; when I restarted my 180G, I poured a new 3.5” thick concrete pad for it on top of the terrible, sloped existing concrete…

Barring a better finished section of concrete to leak test on somewhere else, this could be worth getting some self leveling floor underlayment cement, or thinset cement to float across the low spots… not only does it make the leak test easy to set up, but it leaves you with a permanent flat section of floor!

When uoure in a townhouse, a lot of that becomes impossible.

 

[UncommonSense]

When uoure in a townhouse, a lot of that becomes impossible.

Well… where is this tank going? If not on a concrete slab foundation, has the home’s floor framing been examined to determine if it will need reinforcement?

These things weigh around 1 ton when up and running, excluding any sump and associated water weight there…

 

[cba191]

The main beam is something like a 6x12 (or bigger) over the garage with 2x10s every 18 inches.

 

[UncommonSense]

The main beam is something like a 6x12 (or bigger) over the garage with 2x10s every 18 inches.

Hmm… so a second story install, over the garage door header?

This would ultimately come down to the methods of construction used… tanks this big above the ground floor are not common for a good reason! — I can only recommend that you hire a licensed structural engineer to determine if this plan is feasible in your specific install!

Often, you see steel screw jacks being used as pillars a floor below the tank, preventing joists from sagging!


As an aside, are there any flat areas of garage floor? Dams can be made to direct water out a garage door relatively easily; that’s how I leak tested my 180!

 

[cba191]

Its fairly new construction. 2016 build date. Would a 120 be a safer option?

 

[UncommonSense]

Its fairly new construction. 2016 build date. Would a 120 be a safer option?

It’s honestly really starts to depend on a large number of variables once you get off a ground floor with big tanks, so there isn’t one good answer!

A thread came up just last night with a 125g on a second story which was leaning away from the wall alarmingly, for example!

— your best bet here is having someone who knows exactly what they’re looking at examine the construction, and sign you off for a tank of X weight, in Y location!

(That is to say, building codes [and inspection rigor thereof] vary from state to state, so every situation is a bit unique…)

 

[n8harp]

Its fairly new construction. 2016 build date. Would a 120 be a safer option?

A 29 would be a safer option