Let's talk about frag tanks!!

[Supreme Reefs]

My frag tank is connected to my display (btw frag tank is 5g bigger than my display...) both have 250 phoenix 14k but display has actinic suppliments. Frags/colonies in both tanks seem to be doing the same. Sometimes i think my frag tank does better than the display...

 

[WWC]

Victor, I was at your shop the other day and saw like 20-30 powerbrights in the main display canopy, unless this is replicated in your other tanks you cannot get the same color outta them.

I'm not trying to replicate just trying to see why at times they loos color or even die, How about my Elos tank without powerbrites ??:tongue: how are powerbrites have to do with coloration on frags? they just make the corals pop more that's about it, if someone can talk about powerbrites it will be me, I have been using them for over 2 years now and can asure you that I can get the same colors without it :wink:, I'm just trying to get other peoples feedback that have frag tanks.

 

[aharrow]

I have a frag tank plumbed into my display. running MH 250 on both. Same 20k coloration but different bulbs. On the frag tank I am running coralvue 20k and cheap XM 20k on the display.

Frag and corals in the frag tank do much better than the display. I have more flow in the frag tank as well. I actually moved three monti colonies into my frag tank as they were losing color in the display. colored right up in two weeks.

this tells me that my bulbs need to be changed in the display and I need another powerhead for increased flow in the display. But I am too broke to buy what I want for the display with is Radiums and vortech mp40's cause I spent all my money at WWC:tongue:

 

[WWC]

I've heard that the white egg crate can be a problem but not the back, I was under the impression that black egg crate is better and won't leach out.

I have heard of issues with ceramic frags plugs and black egg crate leaching stuff into the tank. Not sure how much is hype or not, but I have seen some frag tanks loaded with ceramic frag plugs and stuff looking like crap that looked amazing when it came in.

Anyone else heard of this?

 

[JNye]

i have not encountered this issue with my frag tank. I do however get algea growth in the frag tank that does not occur in the display. i don't get it.

 

[WWC]

That's why I'm asking people to post their problems, if is not one thing it usually is the other :cry:

i have not encountered this issue with my frag tank. I do however get algea growth in the frag tank that does not occur in the display. i don't get it.

 

[JNye]

so true, my issue could have to do with the tangs/rabbitfish i have in the display and not in the frag tank, i also use less flow in the frag tank currently. I think some thought really has to go into what exactly are you using this tank for. Basically mine is for all my higher end stuff becuase they come in as frags, so its a growout tank/my urchin can't steal it tank.
I would guess yours is more of a healing up tank before they ship? I would consider using less PAR and more blue and slightly less flow.

 

[143gadgets]

I am no scientist, but I have been running all different types of frag tanks and there are several issues with frag tanks. If you can correct all of these issues, you will have corals that look better than ur display. I do. :D

1. Flow is usually lower and less random than display. (Create decent random flow with a wavemaker or vortechs. But be careful since they are usually closer to the powerheads than the corals in your display it's much easier to give them too much flow.)

2. Usually have few or no fish (Fish poop and poop is coral food. Add fish. Even a school of chromis or damsels works great)

3. Usually too much light since frag tanks tend to be shallower than our displays (proper acclimation and coral placement is key. Most corals like more light than we think, but the change should be gradual)

4. Usually have no live rock for immediate bio filtration (add a few pieces of LR to the frag tank under ur eggcrate. It will keep the corals and fish happy)

5. Usually have just a MH and no actinic supplementation (Make ur lighting as close if not identical to the display)

6. Plugs and egg crate release phosphate, because they are the closest things to the coral the phosphate exposure is much higher than in the display. (Cure egg crate, plugs, and disks before using them. It makes a world of difference in coloration and algae growth.)

7. Not enough turnover to the sump, because of this the water isn't skimmed as good as the display, leaving more nutrients in the frag tank. (increase turnover to remove excess nutrients)

 

[CoralBandit]

Victor you have more experience than I do but here are my experiences.

Although they are in same water if you move a coral from one part of your display to the other typically the coral will go through some changes. I.E. You frag the mother and put the frag else where but still in same tank.

It has to re adjust to its new surroundings as well as heal from being mutilated ( a little extreme I know :)) The adjustments are IMO because it is getting different PAR unless you measure it perfectly and then it may even be getting a slightly different spectrum. IMO it would be BEST but not IDEAL for you to Cut colonies and leave frags at least in display till healed (would be even better to leave them in the same spot). Then move to different tank, Every time I frag and move it into a different tank it is like a 50:50 shot the coral will die or be shocked so bad it looks like garbage (useless to you if your trying to sell). Sometimes nothing at all happens. Even with a big LPS like a brain I have had one color up completely then I moved it a foot over and it goes into brown mode and colors up again a few weeks later. Any Change over short period of time will cause them to shift IMO. I hope I helped. BTW the Detox WM frag is doing awesome and so are my Saphires :) thanks again!

 

[CoralBandit]

What Chris said up there too ^^^ especially #1 and #3

 

[MitchReef]

Great thread and outstanding timing. I am setting up a frag tank just now and want to try to do everything as well as possible. Unfortunately (or fortunately, depending upon how you look at it) it will not be connected to my main display, but I have done everything I can think about to match the conditions.

 

[CoralBandit]

BTW you can get black egg crate from an acrylic shop somewhere in orlando I forget the name but I know its on ACME road i think (like the old cartoons....) Just search for acrylic shops and its pretty cheap

 

[Who Dah?]

6. Plugs and egg crate release phosphate, because they are the closest things to the coral the phosphate exposure is much higher than in the display. (Cure egg crate, plugs, and disks before using them. It makes a world of difference in coloration and algae growth.)

Can we talk you into sharing your curing technique?
:D

 

[Supreme Reefs]

Can we talk you into sharing your curing technique?
:D

Yes please share with us! :)

 

[J&O'sdad]

I have noticed that if I take my egg crate and pressure was it or hit it really good with a garden hose it doesn't grow algae on it.

 

[Azurel]

If it's a Ceramic fired Frag Plug plug it is inert and shouldn't leach anything.....When fired at 2000 degrees everything in the clay gets burned off and shouldn't have to be cured at all. So phosphate shouldn't be a worry with ceramic frag plugs.


Egg crate the last time used it I cleaned it with vinegar to wash it off and let it soak for a bit. It never grew algea after that either.

 

[Who Dah?]

It'd be nice to know something scientific. I mean, the anecdotal information is very much appreciated, don't get me wrong. (Thanks!) But it'd be nice to quantify a problem/solution. Ya know?

 

[saltysupply]

you have pretty good points vic, when I frag them and keep them in the same "Tank" they never even loose color. However switching tanks is another thing. Lack of food and different conditions from what it was thriving in would be my guess.