Light control for hair algae control

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trudi

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Hi all! I have been battling hair algae for a while (6 months +). I have attempted sea hairs- they don’t eat it. Crabs, urchins x2, lawn mower blenny (didn’t eat it), foxface(nope), Sailfin tang , peroxide on the rock (stressed corals and they are dying), changed all Ro/FI filters, lowered my lights from 12 hrs to 10hrs, less feeding, rinsing frozen food, shut lights off for 3 days, GMO, added peroxide to the tank water, have CUC’s, picked it off, ummm I think that’s all so far. My nutrients say 0 on ammonia, nitrites and phosphate and 5 on nitrates. I have a clam so I’m wanting to be careful with not making too much of an adjustment on lighting. All blue lights are at 60%, white at 20% and no red or green. I have the photon lights on a 120 gallon tank. Any other suggestions?
 
Try Red Sea Algae Management No3:PO4-X it comes with a measuring cup ONLY dose the small side once a week in the sump it takes a bit but it will all disappear. I have a 120 as well I use it now a maintenance once a month I dose the tank.
 
Hi all! I have been battling hair algae for a while (6 months +). I have attempted sea hairs- they don’t eat it. Crabs, urchins x2, lawn mower blenny (didn’t eat it), foxface(nope), Sailfin tang , peroxide on the rock (stressed corals and they are dying), changed all Ro/FI filters, lowered my lights from 12 hrs to 10hrs, less feeding, rinsing frozen food, shut lights off for 3 days, GMO, added peroxide to the tank water, have CUC’s, picked it off, ummm I think that’s all so far. My nutrients say 0 on ammonia, nitrites and phosphate and 5 on nitrates. I have a clam so I’m wanting to be careful with not making too much of an adjustment on lighting. All blue lights are at 60%, white at 20% and no red or green. I have the photon lights on a 120 gallon tank. Any other suggestions?
60% blue and 20% whites is about the max for most tanks- you can back that down a bit to say 40/15. However to tackle the root of the algae, you will need to increase your nutrient export. It's common for nitrates/ites to read 0 when you have algae- that's because the algae is absorbing those organic nutrients from the water column. Increased skimming, larger water changes, and growing chaeto in a refugium can all help export those nutrients before nuisance algae has a chance to soak them up. Algae uses the same light corals do- and then some. The key to eliminating algae is to eliminate the nutrients that they use to thrive.
 
Santa Montica algae scrubbers is your answer. I have the Surf 2xx for my 130g and just got in a HOG 1x for my 40g.
 
Personally I would say there is no need to play with the lights to eradicate algae.

Control the nutrients, skim aggressively, change the filter sock daily, feed less food but more often. Rotting food is the main fuel source for algae, so don't let it rot in the tank. More frequent water changes and scrub the rocks with a toothbrush every water change.

It takes elbow grease and persistence to get rid of algae, easy fixes like turning down the lights or feeding less will never ever work.
 

IF YOU HAD TO OPERATE EVERYTHING ELSE MANUALLY, WHICH AUTOMATED SYSTEM WOULD YOU KEEP?

  • Auto top-off

    Votes: 38 58.5%
  • Automated dosing

    Votes: 4 6.2%
  • Mechanical filtration / roller filter

    Votes: 4 6.2%
  • Automated water testing

    Votes: 3 4.6%
  • Automatic feeding

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Lighting schedule

    Votes: 9 13.8%
  • Controller and remote monitoring

    Votes: 3 4.6%
  • Leak detection and emergency shutoff

    Votes: 1 1.5%
  • Automatic water changes

    Votes: 2 3.1%
  • None. I prefer to operate everything manually

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Something else (explain in the comments)

    Votes: 1 1.5%
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