This document by @taricha should help you ID them. Make sure to read the text descriptions too:
Attachments
Last edited:
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
Prepare by starting with a water change and blow this stuff loose with a turkey baster and siphon up loose particles.I have been struggling with dinos since about December and feel like I have tried everything.
Dino x
Dirty'ing the tank
3 day black out (while dosing dino x)
Running uv(I've always ran uv) as well as re plumbing it to hang off of the display.
Tried raising the temp. To +/-84⁰ F
I've been dosing beneficial bacteria, phyto and copepods regularly
And short of holding an exorcism just about every other method I have found online with no real headway.
I think I have narrowed it down to Ostreopsis dinos based off of the stringy, bubbly nature of them and looking at them under a microscope. Photos attached.
Anyone have any other ideas? I'm starting to see why people give up on the hobby after dealing with them...
Parameters are as follows..
Nitrates - 5-10ppm
Phosphate - .75 to 1
Calc - 420
Alk - 11
Mag 1400ish
Ammonia 0
Nitrite 0
Ph hovers between 8.2-8.3 daily
Red sea for everything but phosphate. For it I use API. And cross check mag alk and Calc with the apex trident.Prepare by starting with a water change and blow this stuff loose with a turkey baster and siphon up loose particles.
Turn lights off (at least white and run blue at 10-15% IF you have light dependant corals) for 5 days and at night dose 1ml of 3% hydrogen peroxide per 10 gallons for all 5 nights. If you dont have light dependent coral- turn all lights off.
During the day dose 1ml of liquid bacteria (such as bacter 7 or XLM) per 10 gallons.
Clean filters daily and DO NOT FEED CORAL FOODS OR ADD NOPOX as it is food for dinos.
Day 5,, you can start with blue lights - ramping up and work your white lights up slowly
What test kits are you using ?
See if you can get a second phos test with a NON-Api kit from a trusted LFSRed sea for everything but phosphate. For it I use API. And cross check mag alk and Calc with the apex trident.
Yikes! just changed all of the cannisters and am reading 8ppm.. buying a 5th stage tonight
Thinking ostreopsis now based off newer scope shots.They seem to be moving and more oval shaped
See my earlier comments about UV. I personally would try a 55 jebao as a temporary (6 months or so) solution. Unless you want to go permanent UV with a more expensive brand.18w on a 149g redsea 525. Putting through about 400 gallons per hour.
I am half tempted to go nuclear, I've lost a good deal of high dollar pieces. If it wasn't so in convenient I would consider a break down and start fresh. I'm just attached to what is left and I don't have any room for another tank.
For me the Jebao 55W on my 200G system worked wonders.18w on a 149g redsea 525. Putting through about 400 gallons per hour.
I am half tempted to go nuclear, I've lost a good deal of high dollar pieces. If it wasn't so in convenient I would consider a break down and start fresh. I'm just attached to what is left and I don't have any room for another tank.
wouldn't dinos poison them? they poisoned mine...Ring cowries may help to make a dent - but you'll probably need 20 or so. They typically like sticking to the rockwork, so they may not do a lot with the substrate. Do you have any conches or anything else that cleans your sand bed?
Barring that, there's always the fish exorcism...
One other thing ive noticed. The tank is adjacent to a window which is defeating the blackout. UV from sun will penetrate blinds/shades/curtains. Place Black construction paper from Walmart on the end of tank facing window- will reduce light drasticallyAppreciate all of the responses and guidance from everyone. I've always been more of a spectator on this forum since I started in the hobby for the irrational fear of being ridiculed for asking a dumb question lol...
I think after reading through the response I am going to try vetteguy's method. On top of running two 18w UV's(until the jebao 55w comes in the mail)
I am also going to "borrow"some live rock from a local friend who is also in the hobby to stick in the sump. Can't hurt right?
Let you all know how it goes!
Have you tried filtering them? They are about 20-50 microns. You could try filtering at 5-10 microns.I have been struggling with dinos since about December and feel like I have tried everything.
Dino x
Dirty'ing the tank
3 day black out (while dosing dino x)
Running uv(I've always ran uv) as well as re plumbing it to hang off of the display.
Tried raising the temp. To +/-84⁰ F
I've been dosing beneficial bacteria, phyto and copepods regularly
And short of holding an exorcism just about every other method I have found online with no real headway.
I think I have narrowed it down to Ostreopsis dinos based off of the stringy, bubbly nature of them and looking at them under a microscope. Photos attached.
Anyone have any other ideas? I'm starting to see why people give up on the hobby after dealing with them...
Parameters are as follows..
Nitrates - 5-10ppm
Phosphate - .75 to 1
Calc - 420
Alk - 11
Mag 1400ish
Ammonia 0
Nitrite 0
Ph hovers between 8.2-8.3 daily