loud gurgle emanations

jcharrsn27 · Nov 27, 2010

I am new to the world of the reefers so my terminology and explanations may be a little off...please bear with me. I have a 75g drilled tank with an overflow in the back corner. I have had to replumb because of little leaks here and there, not too big a deal. The pipes extending into the overflow box from the drain make an awful gurgling sound that would easily drown out any attempt at civilized conversation in the area. I have looked at other overflow boxes and spoke at great length with the local saltwater fish tank suppliers and have come up with a design that I thought should work because it mimics the very quiet setup at the store... Mine is not quiet. I have 1" PVC coming up out of the bulkhead then a 90 degree bend then a T joint with the top arm capped off and the bottom arm open. I drilled a small hole in the cap and it gurgles and it does not help when I make the hole bigger. I have also tried to drill holes in the bottom arm of the T joint to help with flow and this does not seem to do anything. If anyone else has had success with this particular project, overcome similar obstacles, or has entertaining witty banter please feel free to respond and I am very new to this so I do not mind any extra explanations or appropriate links to comprehensive guides. I diagrammed what I did criticism is welcome. I am thinking if you click it it will open up in a new window. Let me know if I need to repost the pic differently. Thanks to all.

Troylee · Nov 27, 2010

You just need a standard durso or gurgle buster... Google either one and your set.. I would use a durso like you drew but a 90* on the top not a tee... You drill a tiny hole in the top and your good..

Sasquatch · Nov 27, 2010

it looks reversed to me? the T should be on the down pipe and the 90 at the other end, cap the T and drill a hole that will tight fit some vinyl tubing about 3/8s should be fine, whats happening is the air drawn in from your cap is mixing in the connection between T and 90, if you put the T at the back the air goes right down the pipe quietly

skinz78 · Nov 27, 2010

+1 with Sasquatch, I just did the very same thing with mine and it made all the difference in the world.

Troylee · Nov 27, 2010

This is what cha want...

jcharrsn27 · Nov 28, 2010

swapped the T and the 90 air and water mixing at the hole now...alas gurgling persists...maybe because not enough air. 3/8 seems like a big hole, but PVC fittings are cheap and the lowes plumbing guy and I are on a first name basis. wish me luck

Sasquatch · Nov 28, 2010

could you describe the sump end of the return pipe? is it below water level? if its too deep it can create back pressure, you could drill holes in the portion below water like swiss cheese

litenyaup · Nov 28, 2010

too much flow poss? is it surging?

phi delt reefer · Nov 28, 2010

possibly need a gate valve to help match the return flow to the overflow

Alot of the systems people will recommend will be quiet given that specific variables are met (ie. return pump capacity, overflow wier flow capacity, pvc diameter, etc.) What works for one person maybe incredibly loud for another.

The key to quieting a system is getting your flow to move smoothly. A gate valve will help adjust the rate of flow for you. If you have TOO much flow you may need to put a gate valve on your return pump and dial it back a bit (your overflow maybe at capacity so you are surging as mentioned by litenyaup).

Ericm1205 · Nov 29, 2010

sounds like he has too much flow from the return cause he said there is swirling at the pipe. needs to dial back the flow, or need a larger size durso pipe. adding a valve to the return is easier than re-plumbing.

KMP · Nov 29, 2010

On a whim; when setting up a new tank I figured out how high I wanted the water (no more than 1/2" below display water line), cut a pice of PVC to slip in the bulkhead, added a 45 degree fitting, and then another piece of PVC with one end cut at a 45 degree angle. This gave me an elongated opening and the overfloews in my tanks (home and office) are silent. You do need a ball valve on your return to balance things out (easy with both set ups) and may notice a little noise initially. After the pipes slime it will be dead silent.

Only takes 2 mins and a couple bucks to try.

Harry_Y · Nov 29, 2010

As others have said slow down your flow

if you need water movement use power heads

A slower flow through the sump reduces noise, and micro-bubbles
plus it allows more dwell time for heating and filtration.

beaslbob · Nov 29, 2010

At drawn you design should work.

But the water level should be in the center of the horizontal part not above as you drew it.

.............._ _
..............|..|
..............|..|
_________|..|
|~~~~~~|~|~~~~~~~~~~~(water level)
|.._______|..|
|..|..........|..|
|..|..........|_|
|..|
|..|
|..|

also take the sump end out of the sump water and see if the guggleing stops. Sometimes if the sump drain end is underwater it water build up in the drain then flushes once pressure is built up.

my .02

with a really really bad drawing :wink:

DBarsotti · Nov 29, 2010

My overflow isn't big enough for the regular design so i built this.. waiting for the glue to cure then i'lll try it out..(this one might be a little too small for the amount of flow, but we'll see..) I made a similar one for my last system that worked great.

heres the old one i used on my 40g external overflow box