I tried buying this items but they do not ship to europe, I could not find Brightwell Neophos eather in Europe, I will continue searching as in Spain is not available, I will see if I can get it in Germany or the Uk.
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Did that work? I also have that isue with low phosphates and high nitrates, I would like to buy trisodium phosphate to try it but I am not sure if the one they sell in shops for agriculture will be good, can you tell me where did you bought yours? Thank you.
Binding to rock only applies when your water is high in phosphate. When water is low in phosphate, any phosphate that may have been in the rock reaches out naturally.
There is no harm continuing to dose until you get a reading. s a test, take a gallon on water out of your display tank and add it to a jug. Put your 4ml dose of PO4 additive to the jug and shake the bottle. Next test your jug of water using a hannah ULR tester. You should Have a very strong PO4 result. Then add that gallon of water back to your display tank. If for some reason you still get a zero reading, you will know it’s the additive.
I'm trying to raise my phosphate from zero, it has always been undetectable. It sounds like it is just binding to my reef saver rock. I mixed up a TSP solution and 4mL should have raised it to 0.01ppm. I added 4mL over an hour and then tested 30 minutes after. It was still zero. So I did it again (should now be at 0.02ppm) and still zero. Before I started I did a test with a gallon of tank water and few drops of my mixture and it went from zero to 0.04ppm, so my test seems fine. Is there any harm in continuing this until I reach a detectable level? Obviously not adding it really fast or a bunch at once, but faster than 4mL per day and then it might take a month to reach equilibrium. It seems that if I'm adding it and it almost immediately binds then there wouldn't be any harm in adding more. Maybe cap a daily dose at 20mL (should be 0.05ppm), but test after each 4mL dose.
That is in agreement with what I said.Actually, phosphate will bind to calcium carbonate surfaces at nearly any phosphate concentration, it just binds more and more as the concentration rises.
That is in agreement with what I said.
Currently a Red Sea Pro kit. Not the most accurate, but I haven't seen anything terrible about it. It has never had a hint of color, but my test with a few drops of TSP (1.88g/L) solution in a gallon registered about what I would expect at 0.04ppm. I do have a Hannah ULR on order, so I'm going to wait until I get that before going further. Hopefully it reads zero and this could be why corals are not doing well for me, because everything else tests normal and is stable.How are you measuring the 0.01 ppm? It may not be accurate.
this was an excellent read! i am currentlh in same situation. all sps rtn, even zoas. i have been trying ti run triton method but cant get off runway.
i recently added an auto feeder and feeding small amt 4x's per day. also 1-2 cubes of mysid. historically i couldnt get nutrients no matter what. i ran tank with no skimmer and no fuge for 3-4 mos. turned all back on then back chaeto took off. (i had a big prib getting it to grow). before auto feed instill couldnt get no3/po4. i checked this am. po4-0, no3 ->25ppm!!!!!!! chaeto is going crazy with h380. doing a 30% water change today. going to clean out sump was letting all build up inhopes of nutrients. let simmer for 24hrs and see where i end up at. I have neophos on hand if i add at evening then it will be gone by noon bc of big fuge hopefully lowering no3 in the process. wish there was a food to feed tyat was more balanced po4 and no3