LPS dying need advice.

[Dburr1014]

Sounds like you’re trying to give me anxiety to deal with two types… lol. No offense but I hope you’re wrong lol.

I'm sorry.

The two act differently, one is spinning in circles and the other just move around.

It's not a terrible situation, just go at them with both guns.

 

[Kershaw]

I'm sorry.

The two act differently, one is spinning in circles and the other just move around.

It's not a terrible situation, just go at them with both guns.

It’s ok. I appreciate the support.

 

[stE26wy14]

I ran uv at night. Dosed hydrogen peroxide at lights out. They went to the water column at night so both help kill them.

Wait, how do u dose hydrogen peroxide? And what is it helpful for besides killing bacteria in blooms?

 

[RevMH]

It's tough to see close enough for me to distinguish between Prorocentrum and Large Cell Amphidinium. At times I think I can see the "beak" which would suggest Amphidinium. Lacking the beak, coupled with the sluggish movement in your Dino 4 video, and their location, they could be Prorocentrum.

Unfortunately, the treatment for each of these is different. I've had great success dosing Sodium Silicate for Amphidinium. It took time, but they eventually lost.

I haven't had to face Prorocentrum, but I believe a black out can force them into the water where UV would be effective at sterilizing them. Prorocentrum is toxic and they absolutely can irritate your corals.

I watched the spinning dinos a few times and it look to me like they only spin momentarily before traveling on their way and their shape doesn't look like Ostreopsis to me. That doesn't mean I'm right.

I'd get a second opinion on your videos here:
Thread 'Dinoflagellates – Are You Tired Of Battling Altogether?' https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/dinoflagellates-–-are-you-tired-of-battling-altogether.293318/

 

[Kershaw]

It's tough to see close enough for me to distinguish between Prorocentrum and Large Cell Amphidinium. At times I think I can see the "beak" would suggests Amphidinium. Lacking the beak, coupled with the sluggish movement in your Dino 4 video, and their location, they could be Prorocentrum.

Unfortunately, the treatment for each of these is different. I've had great success dosing Sodium Silicate for Amphidinium. I haven't had to face Prorocentrum, but I believe a black out

Sponge excel will be here tomorrow and to my understanding that is silicate. Will start dosing it as soon as it arrives.

 

[RevMH]

Sponge excel will be here tomorrow and to my understanding that is silicate. Will start dosing it as soon as it arrives.

If it's Amphidinium, that's perfect. Just an FYI, Sodium Silicate can be purchased on Amazon, too.
I used the item below when fighting mine. I dosed 2 ml daily in my 200g - very much overdose in my case, but the outcome was more diatoms, almost no dinos. Your results may vary.

High Temperature Adhesive, 2000F Rated, Sodium Silicate, Water Glass, 40% Solution, 4oz Bottle, 5602 Clear https://a.co/d/e8XfE1Q

 

[Kershaw]

If it's Amphidinium, that's perfect. Just an FYI, Sodium Silicate can be purchased on Amazon, too.
I used the item below when fighting mine. I dosed 2 ml daily in my 200g - very much overdose in my case, but the outcome was more diatoms, almost no dinos. Your results may vary.

High Temperature Adhesive, 2000F Rated, Sodium Silicate, Water Glass, 40% Solution, 4oz Bottle, 5602 Clear https://a.co/

I just bought name brand stuff to get started a little easier. I’ll do more research on alternative options when I have time. Last time I tried to DIY extreme water clarity and it seemed to cause more problems then solve. It’s likely my fault but didn’t want to mess with anything while coral is dying. Even though I know allot of company’s sell snake oil as well

 

[RevMH]

I just bought name brand stuff to get started a little easier. I’ll do more research on alternative options when I have time. Last time I tried to DIY extreme water clarity and it seemed to cause more problems then solve. It’s likely my fault but didn’t want to mess with anything while coral is dying. Even though I know allot of company’s sell snake oil as well

I totally understand. The SpongeExcel will absolutely work, too. I recommended the other product based on Randy Holmes-Farley's recommendation, mostly because it's noticeably cheaper.

Disclaimer: Randy recommended the ingredient, he did not endorce the specific product I used or the amount I dosed.

It's a better decision to work within your comfort zone. I'm just a random guy on the internet. What worked for me may not work for you in your tank.

 

[Kershaw]

Not sure if this helps. But here is as clear of a photo as I can get.

 

[RevMH]

The center and small notch, but not "beak", looks like Prorocentrum to me.

I'd still get a second opinion. Prorocentrum will likely need a black out to get them into the water for the UV to sterilize.

(This information was taken from the previously linked guide which was written by @taricha. The information is not my own).

 

[taricha]

The videos are in

I'm not good at I.d.'ing, but I am pretty sure you have two types. Smaller spinning ones are different than the large ones.
I think you have ostio and amphi.

@taricha is really good identifying. Those videos are good.

I see prorocentrum. I don't see a second cell type population in those videos.

 

[Dburr1014]

Well, I said I'm not good :(

Now you have a clear direction, go get'em!

 

[RevMH]

Well, I said I'm not good :(

Now you have a clear direction, go get'em!

That spinning one absolutely moved like Ostreopsis for a bit. I had to watch the video a couple times to see it move after. It was lacking that "almond" shape.

 

[Kershaw]

So how much of a black is needed? Do I need to prevent all ambient light?

 

[Kershaw]

Neonitro and sponge excel came in. Dosed a cap full of neo nitro and will check tomorrow. Added a few drops of sponge excel. I have no test for silicate so will go easy on it.
I suppose I will use card board to do black out. With the way my UV is hooked up I will not be able to get total darkness. I am also concerned of the card board getting wet over top. Any advice on how dark it needs to be or how to cover would be appreciated.

 

[RevMH]

Neonitro and sponge excel came in. Dosed a cap full of neo nitro and will check tomorrow. Added a few drops of sponge excel. I have no test for silicate so will go easy on it.
I suppose I will use card board to do black out. With the way my UV is hooked up I will not be able to get total darkness. I am also concerned of the card board getting wet over top. Any advice on how dark it needs to be or how to cover would be appreciated.

The Silica may not help with the Prorocentrum, but dosing it should benefit other organisms, which might help with balancing overall (or it might doing nothing)!? If you dose too much, you'll probably see more diatoms, which can look a bit like dinos. They'll look drastically different than dinos under the microscope. I dose it in my tanks habitually.

I think the recommendation is total black out, but what I've done in the past, which worked for me, was simply turning the lights off for a few days, then I turn the blues on, give it a couple days, followed by the whites. I don't cover the tank, but there's no direct light, only ambient room light.

The above worked for Ostreopsis for me. I believe Prorocentrum is more stubborn, but you could try it for a couple days, see if it makes a difference. If not, try blocking all light.

I would take a turkey baster and blast the rocks and sand at night to get them in the water. I ran carbon passively during this time frame. I don't know if it helped or not, but I ran it, so I wanted to add it here.

Finally, manual removal of what you see probably wouldn't hurt, especially if you have a lot.

 

[Kershaw]

The Silica may not help with the Prorocentrum, but dosing it should benefit other organisms, which might help with balancing overall (or it might doing nothing)!? If you dose too much, you'll probably see more diatoms, which can look a bit like dinos. They'll look drastically different than dinos under the microscope. I dose it in my tanks habitually.

I think the recommendation is total black out, but what I've done in the past, which worked for me, was simply turning the lights off for a few days, then I turn the blues on, give it a couple days, followed by the whites. I don't cover the tank, but there's no direct light, only ambient room light.

The above worked for Ostreopsis for me. I believe Prorocentrum is more stubborn, but you could try it for a couple days, see if it makes a difference. If not, try blocking all light.

I would take a turkey baster and blast the rocks and sand at night to get them in the water. I ran carbon passively during this time frame. I don't know if it helped or not, but I ran it, so I wanted to add it here.

Finally, manual removal of what you see probably wouldn't hurt, especially if you have a lot.

Thank you, I turned off my lights so they won’t come on. We have recessed lighting in the room the tank is. So tomorrow I will try to use some card board to block as much as I can. I think the turkey master has been helping so I will continue to do it at night. I’ll up date here tomorrow on nitrates and phosphates.

 

[RevMH]

Thank you, I turned off my lights so they won’t come on. We have recessed lighting in the room the tank is. So tomorrow I will try to use some card board to block as much as I can. I think the turkey master has been helping so I will continue to do it at night. I’ll up date here tomorrow on nitrates and phosphates.

It's a pain, but you've got this. Looking forward to some positive updates!

 

[Kershaw]

Update: 1.3 nitrates .04 phosphate
3 black out complete. Tank looks sterile.

 

[RevMH]

Not seeing dinos everywhere?
Nutrients still look low (there fine, but zero will can come real quick), but at least they're detectable.