LPS dying need advice.

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Here is what I did today after reading the arrival here on Dino’s. My wife has microscopes at her work and will take some algae and see if she can get a picture of what it looks like.
For now I will keep blowing the stuff off and hope it all goes through 57w uv. I am running a m1 pump to it on lowest setting. I have no idea the GPH on each setting but lowest seems like a lot.
 
Mine is 8 Stages, on its first phase.

It's not an original products. Basically, I just buy random products and DIY it.

1, Descaler (Treat Tap Water)
2, PP Carton (Dirt remover at 1 micron)
3, Dirt Membrane (Dirt remover at 0.1um)
3, GAC (Carbon Pre-filter)
4, Carbon Block (Carbon Post-filter)
5, Carbon Block (Carbon Post-filter)
6, RO Membrane 600gpd
7, DI Resin (Recycle System)
8, DI Resin (One-time throw away)

Then it would be 0 TDS and saved in Plastic Reservoir with circulating pump 24/7 and now added a UV system to it.

Then it would go through another 3 stage of DI Recirculating System when releasing into mixer reservoir, although this last 3 stage is not needed, I think. But since I have it, so I just let its work.

But I think it's the UV, that kills whatever filter couldn't removed.
I’m not saying this wouldn’t help or be a good idea. I just have never had my RODI be an issue. If I can find a good deal on another UV I would defiantly consider adding it to my mixing station.
 
Off topic - I hate the tunze Osmolater 3
It is so sensitive that any slight movement with the water in sump causes it to over top off. Every time I use the M1 it causes that thing to over fill my sump. Which is why my UV was off. So I move it to display thinking that will solve it. Somehow no matter what power heads do the tunze isn’t effected but when I use the M1 it can’t handle it.
 
IMG_7860.jpeg

Here is what I did today after reading the arrival here on Dino’s. My wife has microscopes at her work and will take some algae and see if she can get a picture of what it looks like.
For now I will keep blowing the stuff off and hope it all goes through 57w uv. I am running a m1 pump to it on lowest setting. I have no idea the GPH on each setting but lowest seems like a lot.
If she can, also get a short 10~15 second video.
 
Do you carbon dose? (Did not read all thread) . That is key IME.
I have the Osmolator on a digital timer working 5 min twice a day 08:00 and 20:00. That also help prolong the rodi system
 
Do you carbon dose? (Did not read all thread) . That is key IME.
I have the Osmolator on a digital timer working 5 min twice a day 08:00 and 20:00. That also help prolong the rodi system
No I don’t carbon dose. Just water changes and skimmer for nutrient export.
 
Do you carbon dose? (Did not read all thread) . That is key IME.
I have the Osmolator on a digital timer working 5 min twice a day 08:00 and 20:00. That also help prolong the rodi system
Here is this stupid thing
 
No I don’t carbon dose. Just water changes and skimmer for nutrient export.
Nutrient export is not an accurate term concerning carbon dosing as it is a means to feed the microbiome of your tank. My take is that this is your problem.
I use ALL export means as well as heavy carbon dosing:
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Nutrient export is not an accurate term concerning carbon dosing as it is a means to feed the microbiome of your tank. My take is that this is your problem.
I use ALL export means as well as heavy
What do you recommend for carbon dosing? And you believe this will allow microbiome to out compete the issues I am having? Years ago I tried vodka dosing, never seen much of change at that time.
 
In your case, it's NP Bacto-balance, and I would consider their amino acid product which feeds the corals and at the same time adds nitrogen at the same time. I have been using them for over 2 years. Also, FWIW, I do not do water changes.
How do you test for salinity?
 
In your case, it's NP Bacto-balance, and I would consider their amino acid product which feeds the corals and at the same time adds nitrogen at the same time. I have been using them for over 2 years. Also, FWIW, I do not do water changes.
How do you test for salinity?
I’ll take a look at that. My goal has been automated water changes, but I’m tired of wasting money on pumps that are un able to do them well and accurately. One day I’ll get it figured out. I use the Hannah pen style and so far it holds calibration better then my refractometer. Also had my water tested yesterday and they use aqua spin
 
If it is dinos which I'm pretty sure it is. Get microbe lift special blend. It's a purple non sulphur bacteria. It cheaper than all the other PNS brands and you can get it local at most box pet stores. It's also photosynthetic so no black out needed. Get two big bottles, turn your skimmer off dump half the bottle in wait 3-4 days dump the second half wait 3-4 days and the start skimmer back up and use the other bottle as directed. I do this about once a year and it works great for me.
 
If it is dinos which I'm pretty sure it is. Get microbe lift special blend. It's a purple non sulphur bacteria. It cheaper than all the other PNS brands and you can get it local at most box pet stores. It's also photosynthetic so no black out needed. Get two big bottles, turn your skimmer off dump half the bottle in wait 3-4 days dump the second half wait 3-4 days and the start skimmer back up and use the other bottle as directed. I do this about once a year and it works great for me.
I’ll check it out. Since moving UV to display, it appears that their speed has slowed. When I woke up today my rocks were not covered like before. I continue to blow off the rocks so UV can suck them up.
 
Update: wife’s microscope is not strong enough to identify. So I may just have to buy a microscope. Will update when I know more.
 
Update: .11 phos and 0 on nitrate.
Microscope will be here tomorrow.
When I got home from work everything was covered again. Turned up flow on uv and blew everything off. Flow is 20% of what ever a vectra M1 can do.
Going to see what will raise nitrate only, if that is an option.
 

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