Maxima clam maybe gaping?

[Marine Betta]

Question for the phyto as I’ve never used this type of product before, would it better to broadcast feed the tank or target the clam specifically?

I suppose same for AB+ or aquavitro, I’m guessing I use one or the other for this one and not both? It seems that the aquavitro is not available locally for me but I can get AB+. Should this be target fed as well?

I would broadcast feed all of these products. I have never target fed any of my clams. Healthy clams will normally close if you get too close to them anyways. They are filter feeders. I only target feed my LPS and anemones.

 

[Marine Betta]

Question for the phyto as I’ve never used this type of product before, would it better to broadcast feed the tank or target the clam specifically?

I suppose same for AB+ or aquavitro, I’m guessing I use one or the other for this one and not both? It seems that the aquavitro is not available locally for me but I can get AB+. Should this be target fed as well?

If you had to get one before the other which would you prioritize ?


Also wanted to add I would love to get more fish but I had a rookie mistake with thinking my damsel…. I believe it’s territorial and is hyper aggressive to other fish so I am avoiding new fish…

I tried posting earlier, but I’m not sure if it worked. Sorry if this is a duplicate.

I would broadcast feed. I am not sure if there is any benefit to target feeding clams as they are filter feeders and would typically close if disturbed when they are healthy. In this situation, I would start with phyto and try to get an amino acid supplement too.

I would remove the damsel via trap or by any means necessary, so you can add some fish. If you’re attached to him, put him in his own tank or the refugium if you have one.

 

[eleongsit]

Question for the phyto as I’ve never used this type of product before, would it better to broadcast feed the tank or target the clam specifically?

I suppose same for AB+ or aquavitro, I’m guessing I use one or the other for this one and not both? It seems that the aquavitro is not available locally for me but I can get AB+. Should this be target fed as well?

If you had to get one before the other which would you prioritize ?


Also wanted to add I would love to get more fish but I had a rookie mistake with thinking my damsel…. I believe it’s territorial and is hyper aggressive to other fish so I am avoiding new fish…

I tried posting earlier, but I’m not sure if it worked. Sorry if this is a duplicate.

I would broadcast feed. I am not sure if there is any benefit to target feeding clams as they are filter feeders and would typically close if disturbed when they are healthy. In this situation, I would start with phyto and try to get an amino acid supplement too.

I would remove the damsel via trap or by any means necessary, so you can add some fish. If you’re attached to him, put him in his own tank or the refugium if you have one.

Thank you!

Would you recommend the phyto feast live or dead? ( preserved I guess )

I have been toying with the idea of moving the damsel to my sump but I won’t do that until I have something else lined up. My sump does have some rock in it as well so he should be fairly happy down there, lots of pods too.

 

[Marine Betta]

Question for the phyto as I’ve never used this type of product before, would it better to broadcast feed the tank or target the clam specifically?

I suppose same for AB+ or aquavitro, I’m guessing I use one or the other for this one and not both? It seems that the aquavitro is not available locally for me but I can get AB+. Should this be target fed as well?

If you had to get one before the other which would you prioritize ?


Also wanted to add I would love to get more fish but I had a rookie mistake with thinking my damsel…. I believe it’s territorial and is hyper aggressive to other fish so I am avoiding new fish…

I tried posting earlier, but I’m not sure if it worked. Sorry if this is a duplicate.

I would broadcast feed. I am not sure if there is any benefit to target feeding clams as they are filter feeders and would typically close if disturbed when they are healthy. In this situation, I would start with phyto and try to get an amino acid supplement too.

I would remove the damsel via trap or by any means necessary, so you can add some fish. If you’re attached to him, put him in his own tank or the refugium if you have one.

Thank you!

Would you recommend the phyto feast live or dead? ( preserved I guess )

I have been toying with the idea of moving the damsel to my sump but I won’t do that until I have something else lined up. My sump does have some rock in it as well so he should be fairly happy down there, lots of pods too.

I prefer phyto feast live. I would make plans to move him as soon as possible, and get some new fish lined up. You will enjoy your tank more with more fish, and they will be probably be more welcoming of new tank mates.

 

[Schlafrig]

In my opinion your nutrient issues are being caused by too much filtration for your bioload. Have you tried adjusting the lighting schedule for the chaeto (assuming youre using lights) or have you turned off your skimmer for a few days? I had a similar issue with my 25 gallon that had a skimmer and small refugium, ultimately I removed both because it was stripping the water too much.

 

[minus9]

Based on the two pics (not that clear), it doesn't look like it's growing at all. Can you post a full tank shot with a more daylight spectrum so we can see the details? Your second pic doesn't look like there's any new growth and based on the zoas next to it, you're not giving it enough light. XR15's are not that powerful of lights despite what people may say, in fact, for what you get, they're pretty weak. Also, based on your parameters, like others have mentioned, you're starving the clam from nitrogen (but mostly light), so it's not looking good unless you can change some things. Too many new hobbyists are afraid of nutrients, as they fear it will cause algae problems, but wind up starving the system of much needed nitrogen and phosphorus. High alk and low nutrients isn't a good combo.

 

[eleongsit]

Thank you for the feedback.

As for the refugium it’s running on about a 4hr light schedule opposite my day lighting schedule.

I had been toying with turning off the skimmer to see if that helps with the nutrients I was thinking it was not doing much since it does not pull out a ton of crap, cup needs emptying maybe once a month.

I will work on lowering my salinity a bit more, continue monitoring and dosing both nitrate and phosphate and start feeding phyto and AB+ once obtained.

As for the lighting I have been considering upgrading as of late but also considering just saving up for a larger tank in general with new lighting. If it comes down to it I will trade in the clam to my LFS to save its life, but I will give balancing out nutrients a shot first.



Full tank shot as requested. Running on its 4th year now.

 

[minus9]

Thanks, the pic helps. Do you only have one fish? If so, then it’s definitely not going to contribute much nitrogen to the clam or corals and you’re always going to be nutrient limited. You’re simply not running the light strong enough, given the appearance of the zoas (fluted and elongated). Also, if you’re just running the blue spectrum, it’s not going to cut it with a clam, they need a “fuller” daylight spectrum, with a lot of intensity, especially a maxima. Your skimmer is small, the reason it’s not pulling anything Is because there’s nothing for it to remove. I would keep it going, but feed your fish more throughout the day and also consider feeding coral foods and particulates to increase the nitrogen content.
If you haven’t done so already, I would buy James Fatherree’s book on clams. You can find it through this link here.

 

[eleongsit]

Thanks, the pic helps. Do you only have one fish? If so, then it’s definitely not going to contribute much nitrogen to the clam or corals and you’re always going to be nutrient limited. You’re simply not running the light strong enough, given the appearance of the zoas (fluted and elongated). Also, if you’re just running the blue spectrum, it’s not going to cut it with a clam, they need a “fuller” daylight spectrum, with a lot of intensity, especially a maxima. Your skimmer is small, the reason it’s not pulling anything Is because there’s nothing for it to remove. I would keep it going, but feed your fish more throughout the day and also consider feeding coral foods and particulates to increase the nitrogen content.
If you haven’t done so already, I would buy James Fatherree’s book on clams. You can find it through this link here.

Thank you so much for the feed back.

Yeah I only have the one fish, I've been feeding frozen mysis or Brine shrimp every day. I do also supplement the nitrate and phosphate with manual dosing as it dropping to zero has been a constant issue. The lighting is not just blue, it is running as follows:

100% UV
100% Violet
100% Royal
100% Blue
20% Green
20% Red
21% Warm White
21% Cool White
during its peak hours its on custom program that I found in a thread somewhere on this forum a while ago.

I've got it at 52% intensity so i do have room to strengthen but I worry about adjusting too much all at once. Would you suggest I increase it slowly over a few days? If so to what intensity would you suggest is it safe to run at 100% if I ramp it up?

 

[minus9]

I think you can bump it up to 100%, but start by raising it to 60% now, then 5% every week or unless the corals seem to react in a negative way, then hold for another week, then keep going until you reach 100%. Adding nitrate and phosphate will help, but finding a direct nitrogen source may be a better route. Ammonium bicarbonate can help, as it's easier for corals and clams to uptake.

 

[Science/G]

That Maxima clam needs at least 300 par through some of your light cycle. I would say it would handle a little less light if your nitrates and phosphates were higher. Once a clam reaches about 3 inches they rely mostly on their zooxanthellae for energy. Spectrum may also be an issue. For the most part, these clams live in really shallow water.

 

[minus9]

That Maxima clam needs at least 300 par through some of your light cycle. I would say it would handle a little less light if your nitrates and phosphates were higher. Once a clam reaches about 3 inches they rely mostly on their zooxanthellae for energy. Spectrum may also be an issue. For the most part, these clams live in really shallow water.

You’re correct that it needs at least 300 micromoles for at least 8hrs, but the 3” feeding myth has been long busted. After clams first settle, they acquire all the zoox they need to survive and we’re talking about the size of your fingernail, if not smaller. They always need a source of nitrogen, but they acquire over 100% of their nutritional requirements through photosynthesis alone. This has been well documented by several scientific studies.

 

[obimace]

Hi,

I got a Red Sea maxima clam about a month ago, it is attached to a piece of rock and I’ve got it in the highest point in my tank I can get it while being stable.

Wanted a second opinion on if this is gaping I should be worried about. The clam does react to shadows and movement by closing slightly or more if I poke its shell with a turkey baster.

Current parameters posted below as well.

Thank you!

The zoas next to it could be ticking it off

 

[eleongsit]

Currently what I’ve done so far is lower my salinity a little bit, still working on this one, dose some phosphate and started dosing phytofeast. I had to go with the preserved version as they were out of the live.

Additionally I’ve also increased light intensity to 60% and will monitor at least a week before increasing more.

What I’ve noticed today is that the gaping seems to be less so hopefully this is a positive improvement.

l
Sorry for the blue pic…

 

[Science/G]

You’re correct that it needs at least 300 micromoles for at least 8hrs, but the 3” feeding myth has been long busted. After clams first settle, they acquire all the zoox they need to survive and we’re talking about the size of your fingernail, if not smaller. They always need a source of nitrogen, but they acquire over 100% of their nutritional requirements through photosynthesis alone. This has been well documented by several scientific studies.

I'm a science teacher so first of all...source. Now, I agree with you that a fingernail size Tridacna Clam has some zooxanthallee that will provide for most of its needs, however, in an aquarium setting, most often times with inadequate par and or incomplete spectrum, the zooxanthallae are not getting what they need to provide enough. A small clam will rely on its filter feeding abilities, and even absorb a nitrogen source to provide for all the nutrition it needs.

 

[minus9]

I'm a science teacher so first of all...source. Now, I agree with you that a fingernail size Tridacna Clam has some zooxanthallee that will provide for most of its needs, however, in an aquarium setting, most often times with inadequate par and or incomplete spectrum, the zooxanthallae are not getting what they need to provide enough. A small clam will rely on its filter feeding abilities, and even absorb a nitrogen source to provide for all the nutrition it needs.

You’re partially correct, first, the size doesn’t matter, especially clams that enter the hobby. They gain all the necessary equipment (zoox) within the first few weeks of their lives (post larval stage). A 1” crocea could be the same age as a 3” derasa or a 5” gigas, so the 3” (or small size) myth is completely bogus. And no matter what food you feed clams, that energy can’t make up for the lack of light, ever. It most certainly can help a sick or unhealthy clam, but it will never match the energy produced from photosynthesis. At most it will make up roughly 30% of the required energy, which isn’t enough. Also, clams (or the zoox) can uptake nutrients directly from the water and that water can be completely devoid/ filtered of particulates. If there isn’t enough light, the zoox dies or bleaches, which creates white marks/scars on the mantle, this has been well documented and observed by the science community and hobbyists.
https://www.int-res.com/articles/meps/115/m115p103.pdfBut if you search for papers from Klumpp, Griffiths, Lucas and Mingoa, you’ll find data on various sizes in regards to CZAR.
James Fatherree’s 2006 book sites most of these studies and outlines the data relating to nutritional needs/requirements.
You simply need proper lighting and available nutrients (and good parameters) for clams to thrive. To drive my point home even more, you can have offspring from the same parents that are the same age and see vastly different sizes between them. A lot of the time it’s simply genetics and not nutrition at all. The age difference of a 1” clam among the different species can be years, with some like crocea, actually being adults at that size, with the ability to produce sperm. We really need to stop pushing the idea of feeding clams as a care requirement and advocate for proper lighting and having available nutrients, with proper water chemistry.
Hopefully there’s enough info here to help others understand about clam health? One simply needs to read a couple books to gain this information, no degree required.

 

[Science/G]

So the addition of dissolved organic matter in the form of amino acids may actually help a smaller clam or one that isn't getting enough light.

 

[minus9]

So the addition of dissolved organic matter in the form of amino acids may actually help a smaller clam or one that isn't getting enough light.

The older studies suggested that organic matter constituted a large portion of their nutritional requirements, as noted in Daniel Knop’s ‘96 book, but I think newer research suggested otherwise. Either way, having available nutrients via the water is a must, but actual particulates may not be necessary, but helpful. There’s also no guarantee that what they consume is actually digested and in most cases, simply passed through their system and expelled.
These studies also varied between species and locations as different environments provided vastly different conditions in the way of available nutrients and particulates.
Having “food” available can benefit clams, especially ill or unhealthy clams, but it can only provide so much and never substitute adequate lighting.

 

[minus9]

The reason why I push back against the advice of needing to feed clams so much, is it sends or gives new hobbyists the wrong idea of their care requirements and creates this false belief that feeding them is more important or necessary than the light and water conditions in which they actually require to thrive. Proper lighting is more important to clams of all sizes and age than what goes into the system/tank. One simply needs to feed their fish enough to produce urea/waste in order to provide enough nitrogen and phosphorus to uptake. Having measurable nutrients should be enough in most cases. Adding phyto should be seen as “feeding” the whole system/tank and adding to the benthic succession process.
I will admit that I’m pretty passionate when it comes to clams and sometimes I come off as being harsh or crass, but I’m simply trying to help others understand their care and needs, because they are such unique animals that can be kept by most with a little effort (and reading). Cheers!

 

[Science/G]

The reason why I push back against the advice of needing to feed clams so much, is it sends or gives new hobbyists the wrong idea of their care requirements and creates this false belief that feeding them is more important or necessary than the light and water conditions in which they actually require to thrive. Proper lighting is more important to clams of all sizes and age than what goes into the system/tank. One simply needs to feed their fish enough to produce urea/waste in order to provide enough nitrogen and phosphorus to uptake. Having measurable nutrients should be enough in most cases. Adding phyto should be seen as “feeding” the whole system/tank and adding to the benthic succession process.
I will admit that I’m pretty passionate when it comes to clams and sometimes I come off as being harsh or crass, but I’m simply trying to help others understand their care and needs, because they are such unique animals that can be kept by most with a little effort (and reading). Cheers!

Nice! So the moral of the story for our young Padawan is..."Buy or rent a par meter and crank up your light!"