Membrane gets contaminated with chlorine/chloramine water

[Richi888]

Hi,

my Dupont membranes allow < 0,1 PPM chlorine / chloramine.

What if the water has 0,4 or so, will it directly get destroyed, or will it just stop working one year earlier than planned, so instead of 4 years maybe 3 years or so..?

Kind regards

 

[KStatefan]

Use a carbon filter prior to the membrane to protect it.

 

[Gumbies R Us]

The carbon filter helps get rid of the rest of the “waste” that is in water, I agree that the carbon filter needs to go first

 

[Buckeye Hydro]

Contrary to popular belief, Filmtec membranes can withstand some exposure to chlorine.

Filmtec says: "FilmTec™ Membranes can withstand short-term exposure to free chlorine (hypochlorite); however, resistance is limited. The membranes can be used successfully in installations where system upsets result in temporary exposure to free chlorine. Eventual degradation may occur after approximately 200 – 1,000 hours of exposure to 1 ppm concentrations of free chlorine."

Damage to the membrane will be visible as degraded rejection.

Russ

 

[Malcontent]

The other issue is that chloramine (if you have it) can pass through the membrane and wreak havoc downstream.

 

[Richi888]

Use a carbon filter prior to the membrane to protect it.

I know but is 0,2-0,4 already a problem? Whats your experience here?

 

[KStatefan]

I know but is 0,2-0,4 already a problem? Whats your experience here?

No. I always run a carbon filter and replace at less then capacity and have never measured chlorine after.

Here is the FilmTec manual it might have the info you are looking for.

 

[Buckeye Hydro]

I know but is 0,2-0,4 already a problem? Whats your experience here?

As a standard practice you'll want to remove that chlorine before it reaches the membrane.

 

[Richi888]

As a standard practice you'll want to remove that chlorine before it reaches the membrane.

My pump (which comes after the carbon block then) needs 30 PSI inlet pressure. So when I run the water through a carbon block, isn't it that the pressure goes to zero so that the pump wont bring the capacity?

 

[Buckeye Hydro]

My pump (which comes after the carbon block then) needs 30 PSI inlet pressure. So when I run the water through a carbon block, isn't it that the pressure goes to zero so that the pump wont bring the capacity?

Putting your pump after your clear prefilter housings is a good move/configuration.

I'm not understanding why the feedwater pressure would go to 0 psi after your prefilters.

 

[Richi888]

Putting your pump after your clear prefilter housings is a good move/configuration.

I'm not understanding why the feedwater pressure would go to 0 psi after your prefilters.

I thought because the carbon block just slows down water so much that pressure heavily falls. But I dont know Im not an expert..

 

[KStatefan]

I thought because the carbon block just slows down water so much that pressure heavily falls. But I dont know Im not an expert..

That depends on the filters. The specs on a standard chlorgard is a 5 psi drop across the filter at 1 gpm flow rate.

 

[Brett7397]

Put your pump after your sediment filter and before the carbon filter. Some people run 2 carbon filters. I just run one but I treat my water just in case or let it mix for 24 hours to let the chlorine gas off.

 

[Buckeye Hydro]

Put your pump after your sediment filter and before the carbon filter. Some people run 2 carbon filters. I just run one but I treat my water just in case or let it mix for 24 hours to let the chlorine gas off.

We don't recommend this configuration. Put the pump after all prefilters. Carbon blocks should not significantly reduce water pressure or water flow.

 

[Brett7397]

Just an idea to try and see if it helped. I agree it would be better for the pump.

 

[Richi888]

That depends on the filters. The specs on a standard chlorgard is a 5 psi drop across the filter at 1 gpm flow rate.

You are using the Matrikx ChloraGuard, right?

 

[KStatefan]

You are using the Matrikx ChloraGuard, right?

Not right now but when I run out of what I have hand I am switching to that plus a Chlorine Grabber from @Buckeye Hydro that is the most cost effective setup for me. I used that for an example since the spec pdf was on my desktop.

 

[Richi888]

Not right now but when I run out of what I have hand I am switching to that plus a Chlorine Grabber from @Buckeye Hydro that is the most cost effective setup for me. I used that for an example since the spec pdf was on my desktop.

Okay, is dual still necessary if you use the ChloraGuard, or also the ChlorPlus from Pentair? ChlorPlus seems to eliminate Chloramine very good.

 

[KStatefan]

Okay, is dual still necessary if you use the ChloraGuard, or also the ChlorPlus from Pentair? ChlorPlus seems to eliminate Chloramine very good.

No. That is just how I set my system up.

 

[Buckeye Hydro]

Just an idea to try and see if it helped. I agree it would be better for the pump.

It's a better configuration... for the housings. The clear housings are the weakest component in these systems in terms of ability to withstand elevated pressure.