I was curious about the Giesemann bulbs but saw one tank with them and it looked way to purple for me, must have been their 22k bulb or whatnot. Also thought their par ratings were low but haven’t seen any of their other bulbs in person.
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Yes, not sure why people think Radiums are blue. Its absolutely bizarre to be honest, must be the supplements???
I got mine on eBay 2x $135 delivered.32 in stock at BRS right now. 250 watt single end.
Yes, not sure why people think Radiums are blue. Its absolutely bizarre to be honest, must be the supplements???
yowza. 400 watt 14k bulbs at that distance from the water will be pushing 600 par on the sandbed.This is 20k Hamilton 250 watt SE on electronic ballast with 2-actinic, 2-blue+ T-5's. I like it, but may go to 14k next bulb change, may go up to 400 watts too
I agree, really was thinking about only doing the middle bulb. I have to keep that fixture low or I get a lot of light spillage, I could have gone with the 48" fixture I guess.yowza. 400 watt 14k bulbs at that distance from the water will be pushing 600 par on the sandbed.
Main difference between magnetic and electronic ballasts is efficiency. Magnetic ballasts generate a LOT of heat, which translates to wasted energy. I have run magnetic and electronic ballasts on my 10,000K bulbs and the only difference I notice is the heat generation. The bulbs didn't look any different, that I noticed. Since halide bulbs generate enough heat by themselves, and unless you want more heat under your tank, I'd go with electronic ballasts.What effect does a magnetic (M80) ballast have versus electronic? I know it can change the way a bulb looks, but I'm not sure how much, or if there are any other effects. I was really leaning toward a LuXcore select-a-watt 250/400 ballast, but it's electronic.
Main difference between magnetic and electronic ballasts is efficiency. Magnetic ballasts generate a LOT of heat, which translates to wasted energy. I have run magnetic and electronic ballasts on my 10,000K bulbs and the only difference I notice is the heat generation. The bulbs didn't look any different, that I noticed. Since halide bulbs generate enough heat by themselves, and unless you want more heat under your tank, I'd go with electronic ballasts.
I would get the Ushio14K 400W on your electronic ballasts. 4 bulbs would be the best on a 96X30X30 tank. Maybe some Blue Plus T5s to make it nice. What fixtures do you have? Get some Acros in that system!!! Enjoy!!!You guys who are running MH what bulbs (brand, wattage, color temp) do you use. My tank is 96x30x30. I had originally planned on running Giesemann MegaChrome Crystal 17500K. I had based my decision to run these lights on several reviews and pictures stating they were a crystal white light with slight blue tint. I recently saw these in person over a tank and found them to be a bit to blue for my taste (don’t know what ballast was running them). I am looking to keep a mixed reef but a little heavier on the SPS side.
I have the Lumen Bright large retrofit reflectors. I am building an aluminum frame for them to sit in. Hood will then be built around that.I would get the Ushio14K 400W on your electronic ballasts. 4 bulbs would be the best on a 96X30X30 tank. Maybe some Blue Plus T5s to make it nice. What fixtures do you have? Get some Acros in that system!!! Enjoy!!!
That's perfect. Lucky boy!I have the Lumen Bright large retrofit reflectors. I am building an aluminum frame for them to sit in. Hood will then be built around that.
Which ANSI PFO or SLS ballast are you referring to? The Pulse Start, which is the same, or the HQI which is different. The HQI 400W ballast tends to reduce the life of Radium 400W bulbs.I have a question regarding the Hamilton 250 watt ballast. After researching and reading a lot, I have found that the the Hamilton 400 watt M135 pulse start ballast is not the same as the ballast (will not power the bulb to spec) that was use as in the older Sunlight Supply BW or the PFO ballast. Is this the same with the 250 watt M80 ballast that Hamilton sells?