MH/T5 par

[KevinC]

Hi all, this is the fixture I currently run over my tank.

I measured par on this fixture a long time ago, par was about 270-290 where my acropora sits under my 40g breeder so that’s about 12 inch from my acros ( 4 inch from water surface. (Without 2 XHOS led bars added later on)

Now I only run MH 4 hours a day, however, with MH turned off, even with XHO supplement, I think the par isn’t enough except for the 4 hours

BRS did an video stating that one xho/T5 produce around 85 par at 15 inches. Won’t I be really low on par then? Should I just change to prime/radion now that I have the funds available??

I know there are many sps dominated reef keepers doing the 4 hours MH. But doesn’t it seems that 4 T5 spreaded that far apart without MH on really produce significantly less par?

 

[X-37B]

Run the MH's for 8hrs and use the T5's for dawn and dusk.
The MH's will do all the work.
I went from 8T5's to 2 250 watt 14k MH's and wont go back.
I did get a OR3 lightbar for dawn and dusk.
My 250's are 14" off the surface and I grow sps on the bottom of my 120. That puts them 40" away from the lamp.
My growth is off the chart since firing them up 3 months ago.

 

[KevinC]

Run the MH's for 8hrs and use the T5's for dawn and dusk.
The MH's will do all the work.
I went from 8T5's to 2 250 watt 14k MH's and wont go back.
I did get a OR3 lightbar for dawn and dusk.
My 250's are 14" off the surface and I grow sps on the bottom of my 120. That puts them 40" away from the lamp.
My growth is off the chart simce firing them up 3 months ago.

Yea but that electric bill
I guess my only option is running the MH long with this fixture if I want high par? I run the 20k radium with 2 blue plus 2 actinic btw

 

[X-37B]

Really your electric bill?
My MH electric bill is no different when I ran 8T5's, lol.
If you want to go the full led route look at the OR3 lighr bars before you look at radions or any other.
My friends running radions are switching to them.

Im a MH guy but would have no problem running the orphek bars.
I have retired all T5's and will run the light bars in place of them if I want the pop as they say.

1 bar is equal to 2 T5's.

Also look at the 14k phoenix if you want high par and run them on m80 ballasts.

I run a 150 MH on my 36x24x12 frag tank too.

 

[KevinC]

Really your electric bill?
My MH electric bill is no different when I ran 8T5's, lol.
If you want to go the full led route look at the OR3 lighr bars before you look at radions or any other.
My friends running radions are switching to them.

Im a MH guy but would have no problem running the orphek bars.
I have retired all T5's and will run the light bars in place of them if I want the pop as they say.

1 bar is equal to 2 T5's.

Also look at the 14k phoenix if you want high par and run them on m80 ballasts.

I run a 150 MH on my 36x24x12 frag tank too.

I like the growth and the par the MH put out, that’s why I got it in the first place haha, this fixture was dirt cheap too btw. Got it for 150

never ran full t5s before, but I know I definitely won’t. Should I even run t5s??

lol now I think maybe I should just run a M80 with 2 UV Orphek and 2 xho actinic.

anyways, do you see a need to “acclimate” the new 8hrs metal halide change or can I just jump right in lol

 

[X-37B]

I like the growth and the par the MH put out, that’s why I got it in the first place haha, this fixture was dirt cheap too btw. Got it for 150

never ran full t5s before, but I know I definitely won’t. Should I even run t5s??

lol now I think maybe I should just run a M80 with 2 UV Orphek and 2 xho actinic.

anyways, do you see a need to “acclimate” the new 8hrs metal halide change or can I just jump right in lol

I went from 8T's at 8hrs to the MH's for 8.
If your worried ramp up and hour a week and you will be fine.

Run the blue plus light bar and not the uv.
The look and pop is way better.
Get 2 if you want and you wont need the actinic.
They throw alot of light.
I will run mine 14" off the surface as soon as my t-slot hardware arrives.

I only need 1 on my 120 for the morning/night look I want.
1 hr before halides +2hrs and 2hrs before light out + 1hr after is what I plan.
Total 6hrs.

 

[A. grandis]

Hi all, this is the fixture I currently run over my tank.

I measured par on this fixture a long time ago, par was about 270-290 where my acropora sits under my 40g breeder so that’s about 12 inch from my acros ( 4 inch from water surface. (Without 2 XHOS led bars added later on)

Now I only run MH 4 hours a day, however, with MH turned off, even with XHO supplement, I think the par isn’t enough except for the 4 hours

BRS did an video stating that one xho/T5 produce around 85 par at 15 inches. Won’t I be really low on par then? Should I just change to prime/radion now that I have the funds available??

I know there are many sps dominated reef keepers doing the 4 hours MH. But doesn’t it seems that 4 T5 spreaded that far apart without MH on really produce significantly less par?

You are too worried about PAR and got caught on it's terms.
PAR is just part of the whole equation and shouldn't be the MAIN reason to determinate the use of ANY artificial or natural light over a reef system.
Questions for you: Do you see any problem running the halide for 4 hours? What is the problem?
Running your T5s for 9 -10 hours straight and the halides (250W) for 4 to 5 hours a day will be sufficient to give you the results you need with most Acros in regards to light.
Over a 40 gallon tank you could even use a 175W halide for 4 to 6+ hours a day with the T5s for 9 -10 hours a day.
You do not need the XHOs at all. Unless you like the reflection of those diodes on the corals for visual purposes, and that's fine too. Find the balance for your system!
To think about changing the system that you have now for Prime/Radion is not a solution to any problem. Besides, halides/t5s will provide better quality of light for your corals than LEDs in many ways.
Relax and enjoy your tank. Be blessed!

 

[KevinC]

You are too worried about PAR and got caught on it's terms.
PAR is just part of the whole equation and shouldn't be the MAIN reason to determinate the use of ANY artificial or natural light over a reef system.
Questions for you: Do you see any problem running the halide for 4 hours? What is the problem?
Running your T5s for 9 -10 hours straight and the halides (250W) for 4 to 5 hours a day will be sufficient to give you the results you need with most Acros in regards to light.
Over a 40 gallon tank you could even use a 175W halide for 4 to 6+ hours a day with the T5s for 9 -10 hours a day.
You do not need the XHOs at all. Unless you like the reflection of those diodes on the corals for visual purposes, and that's fine too. Find the balance for your system!
To think about changing the system that you have now for Prime/Radion is not a solution to any problem. Besides, halides/t5s will provide better quality of light for your corals than LEDs in many ways.
Relax and enjoy your tank. Be blessed!

I did notice a tad difference honestly, while putting it at a constant 300 par with reefbrites, there is noticeable growth rate that I have not been getting in the 40B tank (same water, just different light under different tank). I know for a fact that MH and T5 are better light source than LED for sure, and honestly, Im just not getting the "desirable" growth.

***dang it sounds like I know what i want to do but i really dont. I genuinely want to hear other opinions***

with just the T5s on, if i remember correctly, I was getting around 80-120 par average and that was why I added the reefbrite initially, for better par value at some spot even when the MH was off. the main concern is essentially the 10 inch+ space between the T5s in this fixture and wondering if that would obstruct the growth of acros.

And i do like the visual effect the xhos provides!! I am guilty of turning on my XHOs ONLY sometimes just to see some of that exploding florescent color haha

 

[A. grandis]

I did notice a tad difference honestly, while putting it at a constant 300 par with reefbrites, there is noticeable growth rate that I have not been getting in the 40B tank (same water, just different light under different tank). I know for a fact that MH and T5 are better light source than LED for sure, and honestly, Im just not getting the "desirable" growth.

***dang it sounds like I know what i want to do but i really dont. I genuinely want to hear other opinions***

with just the T5s on, if i remember correctly, I was getting around 80-120 par average and that was why I added the reefbrite initially, for better par value at some spot even when the MH was off. the main concern is essentially the 10 inch+ space between the T5s in this fixture and wondering if that would obstruct the growth of acros.

And i do like the visual effect the xhos provides!! I am guilty of turning on my XHOs ONLY sometimes just to see some of that exploding florescent color haha

The distance between the T5s is not a big deal because the halides should be lifting the heavy weight.
Yes, turning only the XHOs only for a long part of your photoperiod just because you like the "visual" will most likely give you different results (less growth than expected). Perhaps you should set the correct photoperiod for the biological needs of the corals and add the XHOs for your own pleasure as an addition, after the set photoperiod (?).
Another approach is to change your 20K for a 14K halide bulb, for example. Keep in mind that isn't necessary though, but an option to increase PAR, while having it ON for less hours. Be careful while adapting the system to it because sometimes, depending on the brand of the bulbs you choose, it could add way too much PAR at once even using electronic ballasts.
For your information, using any of the major 20K brand bulbs would supply more than enough for a great growth of most Acros simply by slowly increasing hours. If you like your 20K bulbs that is the way to go.
Growth isn't only related to lighting, but alkalinity, nutrients, water motion, temperature, etc...
Another thing to have in mind is that electricity consumption shouldn't be the primary reason for changing anything in your light schedule. Results will also depend on the time lights are ON. Combination of bulbs and ballasts also play a bit in this game.
Different species of corals will respond to light (spectrum, intensity) in different ways.
Make sure you understand there is a balance for any bulb combination and the time for adaptation and in each case that balance should be respected. It takes time to show results too!
One more tip for you... changing all T5s for ATI Blue Plus will help with PAR.
Again... please do not be caught only on PAR numbers.
Have you asked yourself if those corals would be able to grow that much faster? Maybe they are already reaching their top growth rate and you are wishing for the impossible?
The answer for your questions could be more simple than you may think.
Good luck!