Modded Fluval EVO 13.5- Tank Crashing?

[2006fuzz]

Hi there! I'm relatively new to reefing, I've only had the tank running since September and I feel like I've managed to hit every possible snag along the way.

I run a drilled Fluval EVO 13.5 with a 20 long sump, Bubble Magus Curve 5 skimmer, Eheim Jager 100W heater, with a Jebao DC2000 return and a Duetto ATO. I use a Nicrew 50W HyperReef at 5% white and 80% blue on an 9 hour timer for lighting.

The tank houses 2 occelaris clowns, a yellow watchman goby with a pistol shrimp, a skuunk cleaner shrimp, a red fire shrimp, a tuxedo urchin, 1 blue-legged hermit and 1 turban snail.

I use a standard refractometer for salinity, the LR Phosphate Hanna Checker (HI713) and Red Sea for all other tests.

SG 1.026
Temp 78F
Ammonia 0
Nitrites 0.2ppm
Nitrates 50ppm
Calcium 425 ppm
Magnesium 1280 ppm
kH/Alk 8.1 dkH
Phosphates 0ppm

In the past week everything has been going badly. My nitrites have returned after having been gone since October when the tank finally cycled. I've lost a new porcelain crab addition within 48 hours of him being added to the tank. I've lost a ricordea mushroom and a discosoma, but just reduced to mush. My frogspawns are no longer extending, one of my zoa colonies is bleaching, and half my acans have decided they just wont be opening today.

I started dosing vibrant at the beginning of the week, it's not the first time I've tried using it in my fight on algae but it's the first time everything decided they were going to die. I currently have tons of bryopsis covering just about every inch of rock. The sea lettuce has returned, albeit better then the last time. The GHA is gone from the DT but the fuge is essentially just a GHA chamber at this point with the chaeto banished to live in the baffle.

I suppose my question is, does anything stand out as a direct cause of why this is all suddenly happening, or have any ideas how I can bring the tank back to health?

It's been suggested that at this point, starting over may just be less of a heartache then watching everything die when I can't identify a reason for what exactly is going on.

 

[Jekyl]

Your nitrates are really high. I would start with a 20 gallon water change. From there I would do 5 to 10 gallons a week until parameters are in order. While doing to changes use your siphon and a toothbrush to get what algae you can. With nitrates that high plus algae consuming them I'm guessing you're probably feeding too much also.

 

[Jekyl]

Also I would add more snails. Get 3or so of every kind your LFS sells. Less or more depending on size of snail.

 

[2006fuzz]

Your nitrates are really high. I would start with a 20 gallon water change. From there I would do 5 to 10 gallons a week until parameters are in order. While doing to changes use your siphon and a toothbrush to get what algae you can. With nitrates that high plus algae consuming them I'm guessing you're probably feeding too much also.

I was previously told I wasn't feeding enough, in an attempt to control the algae I was feeding the fish every 2-3 days based on their behavior and don't directly feed the coral. I feed Vitalis soft pellets. As for the toothbrush, I tried it yesterday and the bryopsis just refuses to come off. Scrubbing it in tank as best I could resulted in virtually no algae removal.

Months ago in my war against the sea lettuce, I had taken all the rock out and scrubbed it to high waters. But that doesn't seem like a viable option anymore.

 

[2006fuzz]

Also I would add more snails. Get 3or so of every kind your LFS sells. Less or more depending on size of snail.

I was under the impression nothing eats bryopsis?

 

[Jekyl]

Once a day feeding is enough and just what they can eat in a minute or so. Best bet is to remove all the algae you can by hand during water changes. Skim wet and get your chaeto running opposite of your display lights.

 

[2006fuzz]

Once a day feeding is enough and just what they can eat in a minute or so. Best bet is to remove all the algae you can by hand during water changes. Skim wet and get your chaeto running opposite of your display lights.

Hmm okay. I currently have the chaeto lights on 24/7. The fish get fed once a day, what they can eat in about 2 minutes to make sure everyone gets their fill including the goby on the bottom.

Should I put the chaeto lights on a timer, and feed half what I currently do? Paired with a very large WC ofc?

 

[Jekyl]

Somehow a lot of nutrients are getting into your system. Are you using RoDi? With that much algae plus chaeto plus high nitrates it has to be coming from somewhere. Chaeto I would keep on opposite lighting from the DT. Is it growing?

 

[Jekyl]

I was under the impression nothing eats bryopsis?

Even if they're not eating the bryopsis they will consume what it's eating.

 

[2006fuzz]

Somehow a lot of nutrients are getting into your system. Are you using RoDi? With that much algae plus chaeto plus high nitrates it has to be coming from somewhere. Chaeto I would keep on opposite lighting from the DT. Is it growing?

Chaeto isn't growing at all. It's alive and a good green but its just... there. Yup I use 0 TDS RODI for all my water and my top off, I have a 4-stage 50 gpd RO Buddie system.

I'll also look into more snails. LFS is very limited atm on what they have, and their collection isn't overly massive. Any particular ones I should look for based on tank size?

 

[Jekyl]

As diverse as you can get. You sure your light for chaeto is good enough?

 

[2006fuzz]

As diverse as you can get. You sure your light for chaeto is good enough?

I doubt it is. I was told any "freshwater" light was good enough, but I've been seeing recently that lights heavy on the red spectrum are preferable for an efficient fuge.

 

[Jekyl]

I'd ask in the lighting forum. I saw a post for one that was only 30$ that was all red and meant for it.

 

[2006fuzz]

I'd ask in the lighting forum. I saw a post for one that was only 30$ that was all red and meant for it.

Perfect, I'll go ask around there! Thanks for the help, I'm hoping this might help turn things around.