Modified Carlson Surge Device (CSD) for improved health

R.Weller

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The first time I saw a surge device in practice, I knew this was something that I wanted to add to our system. My earliest plans including the device began 2 years ago, & we realized the goal last January when we upgraded our display to the 300gal. Now after 3+ months of operation, this device is my favorite feature 2nd only to the livestock that it supports.

It starts with the surge tank. We used an 17.5gal bucket from our local farm supply store. It is made of heavy plastic that is food grade.
01 - Surge Tank.JPEG


There are two holes drilled into the tank. The first is a few inches from the top of the bucket & the other is on the bottom. They are 2 1/2" & designed for Uniseals made for 1 1/2" PVC. After trying several other bulkheads designed for rain-barrels in other applications, these Uniseals are amazing.
03 - Uniseal.JPEG


After creating the design on paper (I'm a big fan of graph paper), we built a prototype. The prototype does not include several necessary elements, but it did demonstrate that the concept would work with the materials. One of the videos at the bottom of the thread show how effective the prototype was.
04 - Prototype.JPEG


After our successful prototype, it was time to install the device into our fish room in the stair-well behind the display. The tank is secured to a reinforced shelf that is 6.5 ft off the ground. The water intake pipe is 1", & is 8.5 ft above the water source. We are using a Jabeo DCP-6500 running at 60% to overcome the head pressure caused by the elevation. The stand pipe in the middle is an emergency drain should the siphon drain fail to activate for whatever reason.
06 - Internal Plumbing.JPEG

This is a 'modified CSD' as it does not include a gas break line that would otherwise be drilled into the top of the elbow on the bottom-center. I decided not to glue the fittings inside the tank, & there is a small hole drilled between the coupling & the elbow above the surface to allow a tiny amount of air to 'breath' into the siphon. There was some tuning required to find the right amount of air to enter into the pipes. To much air, & the pipes will drain preventing the siphon from starting. To little, & water will fill above the siphon pipe & overflow into the emergency pipe. This is why the gas break line is important & perhaps the most frustrating part of the project. The DC pump helped in finding the right flow rate for our design.

The install is a little busy, but this provides an idea of the elevation, reinforced shelving & the three pipes in the surge device.
09 - Installing.JPEG


The surge pipe drops 26" before making the turn & going through the wall to the display tank. Everything outside the surge tank is glued.
10 - Vertical Plumbing.JPEG


Coming through the wall, the siphon pipe then drops to 6" below the water line. It's important that this end is submerged for there to be a siphon.
11 - Through Wall.JPEG


When the surge is running, we have a tremendous amount of air being injected into the water column. This provides for a significant amount of gas exchange, which helps keep pH high. Clearly, I welcome micro-bubbles in the display.
12 - Gas Exchange.JPG


In retrospect, I must have some type of PVC addiction. This is the return chamber when the surge device is running. The pump on the left is the DCP-6500 for the surge tank, & the two on the right are DCP-8000's for the display (running at 30% & 35% respectively). The 1/2" pipe is a kalk gravity drip from the 20gal Brute pictured above. Because the surge is running from ~7am to ~10pm, an automatic top-off will not work for us. However, the evaporation rate rarely changes, so using a constant drip is equally effective & requires one less device that can / will fail.
14 - PVC Addiction.JPEG


For 23 watts, we have ~12 gallons of water surging into the display every 3:30. This is augmenting the two OW-50 wavemakers on the sides of the tank that are also running at 25%. Here are a few of the benefits from this approach:
  • Randomized flow (when used in conjunction with the wavemakers)
  • Promotes gas exchange
  • Low power consumption
  • Excellent way to broadcast phyto & zooplankton
On the down side, it can be noisy (e.g. when the herbie siphons break).

Here's few videos that hopefully show both the prototype & the device in operation.


 
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R.Weller

R.Weller

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I failed to add a remark on cost. That's important for any DIY thread.

The pump was $60 (purchased from Amazon 23-Oct-2019), & the surge tank was $19 (Tractor Supply on 03-Jan-2020). Adding the cost of PVC, the total project was less than $100 & as noted above, it uses only 23 watts of power.
 

andrewey

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I've always loved tanks that incorporate these types of surge devices. They really just pop in person. I think I'm going to have to steal a lot of the ways you set yours up for my next build. Really well done!
 
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R.Weller

R.Weller

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Here is a video of the 'inside' view of the gas exchange that occurs at the surface when the surge is flushing.

 
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R.Weller

R.Weller

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Learning note - I mentioned above that we did not include the gas break line on the surge pipe leading into the tank but instead drilled a small hole drilled directly into the line. This hole is both the cause of the microbubbles, which we enjoy, & a potential point of failure when the hole gets clogged.

After 4 months of operation, the rate at which the syphon activated slowed from 3:30 to around 5min & water will pour through the emergency drain pipe back into the sump as the bucket is full but the syphon pipe lacked sufficient back-pressure to activate. The pipe will eventually charge which then caused the syphon to occur. As those pipes are not glued, a quick disassembly & cleaning (wipe down) cleared the obstruction from the hole & it was back in business.

This remains a favorite feature of the system. It's a great way of dosing phyto.
 

Fishresponse

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Very cool! The vids aren’t working for me. Anyone else having that issue?
 

Fernthereefer

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Cool project. I have a technical question. When you factor in the sudden surge of water, how does it impact the volume in the main display and the sump so as not to cause overflow in the display and not enough water in the sump chambers?

In other words, if I would like to replicate this at a smaller scale, (55 gal+10 gal sum), what amount of volume (as a %) of the display would you recommend?
 
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R.Weller

R.Weller

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Our display is 300gal measuring 72" x 36" w x 24" h. For this tank, 1" of height is ~11gal of water. The surge tank holds 18gal, but given the plumbing, we're only flushing around 14gal with each surge or approx 5%. We have several coral colonies on the sandbed in the far corner opposite the downspout (6ft away), & you can see the impact the wave has as it passes over their tentacles. The return chamber in our sump holds about 30 gallons. The sump is a DIY project using a standard 75gal as the base. On the display, we're using dual herbie overflows & the emergency drains are 1 1/2" while the two primary drains are standard 1". The volume added to the display & overflow chambers during the surge does not exceed the height of the emergency drains. We spent a fair amount of time designing on graph paper before putting the device together.

As far as I can tell, the main benefits are derived based on the rate at which the water is surged vs. the amount of water or duration of the surge. If we used a smaller container (e.g. 10gal) & 2" pipe, it would likely result in greater aggitation within the display. If I were to do this on a smaller scale, you can absolutely do it using 2 - 3 gallons in a 5 gallon bucket. Much of our research included YouTube clips of various hobbyst using 5 gallons as the source.
 

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