More info about qt

[ahiggins]

Hello!
I’m in the process of building a rsr 350 (80 gallon) and I’ve never been a fish person, always coral. That means I’ve never had more than 2 fish in the same tank lol usually bought together. Never had any deaths. Now that I have an SO that loves fish (and naming them >.<) I’m going to be putting in quite a few fish so how do I make a quarantine tank?

I’ve done a ton of research and know the basics about filtration and what not to physically have in it but how many fish can you qt at once? What additives should I have and dose? What about lighting? The hardest fish I will have in there is a wrasse, others will be pretty easy as far as experience level. It will probably be a 20long.

 

[dwest]

A 20 long is a great start.

Here’s some great reading:

Thread Links to All Things Quarantine - Fish/Inverts

The original comprehensive guide to quarantine by @Humblefish How to Quarantine Also by @Humblefish, this pretty much speaks for itself. The Do's and Dont's of Quarantine The dangers of Aerosol Transmission by @Humblefish Aerosol transmission Information on Bio-film and its impact on...

www.reef2reef.com

Specifically I do this which is also in the link above:

My Current QT Process

UPDATE, 10/9/22: For those looking for quarantine information, our current process is kept updated on the first page of this thread (post any questions at the end of the thread). https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/current-quarantine-protocol.825055/ Thanks, Jay Hemdal I am frequently...

www.reef2reef.com

 

[Niteowl]

I use a 20l for my qt. That said I try not to put more than 2 fish in it at a time. I also have a 90 gal for qt if something drastic happened to my DT. The 20 gal has a cheap hang on filter , heater, small circulation pump , small led light. I use a 4” pvc pipe for the fish to hide. Currently I have it set up. Easy to store too.

 

[AcroNem]

A proper and strict quarantine system is actually very basic. A quarantine system should not have anything that can trap or harbor parasites or that does not have constant contact with water/medication. That means no filter floss, sponges, other filter media (unless removing medication or chemicals) substrate or rocks. A 20L with one or two air stones and non porous (PVC is most common) places to hide with a simple light and heater is all that is required.

Which meds to use will vary, and the links above are a good start.

 

[ahiggins]

Thanks all! I’ll take a look at those links today

 

[Big G]

Hello!
I’m in the process of building a rsr 350 (80 gallon) and I’ve never been a fish person, always coral. That means I’ve never had more than 2 fish in the same tank lol usually bought together. Never had any deaths. Now that I have an SO that loves fish (and naming them >.<) I’m going to be putting in quite a few fish so how do I make a quarantine tank?

I’ve done a ton of research and know the basics about filtration and what not to physically have in it but how many fish can you qt at once? What additives should I have and dose? What about lighting? The hardest fish I will have in there is a wrasse, others will be pretty easy as far as experience level. It will probably be a 20long.

In a 20 long, 2-3 small fish is ideal to not create too much bio load in the tank.

I keep foam pads, ceramic media soaking in my DT's sump 24/7 to place into QT when needed: foam pad and ceramic media (in a mesh bag) for the HOB, and a foam pad for a bubble filter. With these pre soaked pads and media I seldom have to do water changes other than siphoning out fish waste/excess food on the bottom of the tank.

But you can use Seachem Prime for ammonia control with chelated coppers like Copper Power or Coppersafe, but not with Seachem's Cupramine ( I know its weird that Seachem's own products are not compatible).

Lighting. To help control lighting from the "outside" of the tank that may startle the fish, especially wrasses that can hurt themselves darting around, I paint the back wall and both ends with blue or black paint to create a cave like environment to lower stress.
For inside the tank, almost any light will work as long as it is not too bright. Leave the light off for a couple of days when introducing new fish. And then slowly ramp up the intensity.

Best of luck with your new tank

 

[ca1ore]

QT is pretty basic, though there are a few different ways to do it ....

I’m not personally a proponent of the cocktail-of-meds approach that seems popular in some quarters these days. I prefer an observational QT where frequent feedings, and treatment of symptoms if they appear, has worked well for me for 20 years. Better way to build the immune system and a thicker slime coat IME. QT is not just about disease, it also an excellent way to get a new fish eating in non competitive environment. I keep fish in QT for at least a month, sometimes longer. A 20L is my primary QT tank and is sufficient for all but the largest fish. I’ve kept four medium sized fish in there at the same time. Preparing some biomedia ahead of time means no problems with ammonia build up.

I do keep meds on hand should treatment become necessary. Proper chloroquine phosphate (via prescription) for ich, velvet and uronema. Cupramine for ich and velvet on fish that won’t tolerate CP. Cipro and nitrofuracin green powder for bacterial infections. Prime for ammonia detoxification. Prazipro for worms and flukes.

In terms of equipment, some acceptable light, a heater, hob filter and sone PVC for hiding places. I personally use a power head and cheap ATO as well, though not necessary. Adjust water to salinity of the incoming fish then raise slowly over a couple of weeks to full salinity.

 

[ahiggins]

I really like the idea of painting the 3 sides! And I’m in the same camp for treating. I’m not going to throw meds at them unless I see something wrong. It’s nice to have a list of meds though in case something pops up quickly.