MP-60 review: Does it work with a thick tank?

AKReefing

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I bought two MP-60 systems a year ago. According to Ecotech Marine, it's rated for "Max Glass Thickness: 0.375 – 1.00 inch (9.5 – 26 mm)". So far, I had to replace 4 wet side impellers due to wet side failure. Many people online have also experienced this design flaw--the wet side tends to slide down the glass, resulting in a vibration that cracks the ceramic shaft/bearing. I found the problem only after the vibrations became audible, which was too late to reposition them. A year ago, the replacements were $181 plus shipping. Today they're $250-plus. The complete setup for one MP-60 is around $1,000 today. The warranty is just 1 year.

I've opted to switch to pumps with DC power supplied to the wet side. At least if they slide downward, they won't self-destruct. I need to find one compatible with my Hydros, if possible. The Gyre XF280 works on tanks up to 1 1/4" thick. It's also compatible with my Hydros using a $25 cable adapter. The Maxspect Gyre warranty is 1 year.

The Tunze Turbelle EcoStream 6255 also works with 1" glass. Tunze warranties are usually 5 years for recent models. I'm waiting for CoralVue to answer my question about Hydros compatibility.
 
The ceramic on the shaft cracking is common and not isolated to the mp60. I have it happen on MP40s and MP10s as well. I don't think it's from the units sliding on the glass, I think it's a design flaw. I ran 4 MP40s on 3/4" glass and they had to be aligned perfectly or they would vibrate and or fall off but it never caused the ceramic to crack, thats something that just happens over time. I've also had magnets swell and break. I'm running tunze orcas now and got rid of all the vortechs. I got tired of dry side bearing failures in addition to the magnet issues. I'm getting better flow from two orca 6105s than I was getting with 4 MP40s.

Couple of my mp10 wet sides.
PXL_20261029_212221139.jpg


PXL_20260616_212106559.jpg
 
Clean them regularly with citric acid and dont run them over 80% and you'll be fine. I've had mine for 6 years running like this, no issues. There are potential issues with the internal magnet, as shown above, so when you clean it, inspect for cracks. If there's a crack, you'll need a new wet side.
 
Clean them regularly with citric acid and dont run them over 80% and you'll be fine. I've had mine for 6 years running like this, no issues. There are potential issues with the internal magnet, as shown above, so when you clean it, inspect for cracks. If there's a crack, you'll need a new wet side.
Mine get loud when the ceramic detaches as shown above. Mine are far from new when it happens and I think it can be repaired but I haven't bothered.
 
Have had several mp-40's working for years without issue. In my experience if the are noisy it is often because the dry side is not centered to the wet side. Also sometimes just turning one of the two sides takes care of the noise.
 
Clean them regularly with citric acid and dont run them over 80% and you'll be fine. I've had mine for 6 years running like this, no issues. There are potential issues with the internal magnet, as shown above, so when you clean it, inspect for cracks. If there's a crack, you'll need a new wet side.
And at $250 each plus shipping, it's a non-starter. That's why I'm looking for an alternative. In the mean time, I'll be selling two dry sides and controllers. Mine slid because the magnets couldn't hold them steady. As far as limiting them to 80%, I expect any product that I buy to perform at the rated capacity when used according to the manufacturer's specs.
 
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Have had several mp-40's working for years without issue. In my experience if the are noisy it is often because the dry side is not centered to the wet side. Also sometimes just turning one of the two sides takes care of the noise.
That's exactly why they're loud. That's the vibration that causes the ceramic to break. I'd call it a design flaw that they don't want to fix, because they make bank selling replacements.
 
@AKReefing

FWIW, I have XF350's connected to a WaveEngineV2 with the cables and they work great. Something happened w/CoralVue and Maxspect so they don't officially support this, but it works.
Actually, CoralVue does support it. See here: https://www.coralvuehydros.com/is-my-pump-compatible/ . They even sell the adapter cable. Since MaxSpect sells XF350s "pump only", they have no say in the matter. If one fails within the warranty period, I have no doubt the seller or Maxspect (whoever is responsible) would either know or care what controller you're using, as long as it limits the voltage. Hydros provides 0-10VDC.
 
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Thats changed, or my poor memory is indeed poor.

I remember talking to someone in support tho, and it was not supported a couple years ago.
Sometimes changes are good. I'm guessing they got so many requests that they found a new market.
 
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The ceramic on the shaft cracking is common and not isolated to the mp60. I have it happen on MP40s and MP10s as well. I don't think it's from the units sliding on the glass, I think it's a design flaw. I ran 4 MP40s on 3/4" glass and they had to be aligned perfectly or they would vibrate and or fall off but it never caused the ceramic to crack, thats something that just happens over time. I've also had magnets swell and break. I'm running tunze orcas now and got rid of all the vortechs. I got tired of dry side bearing failures in addition to the magnet issues. I'm getting better flow from two orca 6105s than I was getting with 4 MP40s.
Ecotech Marine said, "the design of the ceramics does not allow for replacement and the high cost of the ceramic components would not make it cost-effective vs. purchasing a complete wetside. Obviously, this is a very uncommon issue but can happen should the wetside experience excessive magnetic coupling force or a lack of maintenance."

Mine didn't suffer from a lack of maintenance. "Excessive magnetic coupling" refers to the vibrations caused when the wet side slides down and loses perfect magnetic alignment. When the aquarium thickness approaches the stated thickness limit (0.94 inch vs. 1"), slippage is more likely, and excessive magnetic coupling causes stresses the ceramic shaft. Apparently, the ceramic is just too weak due to its thinness.
 
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