MP40wQD Bearing Replacement

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You’re a legend. I read through those and a long thread on Reef Central but couldn’t find the clear answer.

LOL....I'm no legend, I'm just dumb enough to try anything at least once, regardless if I know what I'm doing. In the case of bearing replacements, I was so dumb, I've done it multiple times. :beaming-face-with-smiling-eyes:
 
LOL....I'm no legend, I'm just dumb enough to try anything at least once, regardless if I know what I'm doing. In the case of bearing replacements, I was so dumb, I've done it multiple times. :beaming-face-with-smiling-eyes:

I ordered some NSK 608zz and a mini bearing puller to give it a go. NSK seem to be the one choice for many bearings on Japanese cars so seems like a safe bet.
 
According to THIS THREAD, the MP40QD uses NMB 608Z bearings on both sides. The older regular MP40's used two different bearings, 607 (7mm x 19mm x 6mm) and a 698 (8mm x 19mm x 6mm).

I'm including THIS THREAD on my replacement of a regular MP40 (that is, no QD) that discusses the most difficult part of this process.....picking the right bearings.
Brand does not matter (in this case NMB).

608 is the bearing size and type:
6 -> bearing series (deep groove in this case)
8 -> 8mm bore diameter

The 600 series are deep groove bearings with a 22mm outer diameter and 7mm thickness.

The letter indicates the type of dust cover over the race (the balls and their holder):
  • Z = metal
  • RS = rubber
If one side has a metal dust cover, it's a 608Z. If both sides, it's a 608ZZ. One side rubber, it's a 608RS. Both sides rubber, it's a 608-2RS.

There are other designators, but not important.

Not all 608 bearings are created equal. Cheaper bearings have looser tolerances and less durable materials. Better bearings have tighter tolerances and more durable materials. The dust covers and tight tolerances can cause more friction for the motor to overcome but may be quieter and last longer. Rubber seals are more protective but create more friction than metal, and metal more than open (exposed races). The tradeoff is dirt ingress, which causes friction and damage.

Some bearings have removable rubber dust covers for cleaning and re-lubrication. Metal shields (Z/ZZ) are usually not removable without damaging them.

So there is a world of difference between a 608z or zz that cost $0.50 cents, and one that cost $10.50. As crazy as it sounds, the cheaper (less accurate) bearing may fare better in the powerhead, due to less built in friction.

In any case, never (ever ever ever) "clean" or "oil" these types of bearings with WD40 or any other solvent, especially those with metal races. They may spin better in your hand, but you just washed out all of the lubricant...
 
I can definitively report the MP40QD does use the NMB 608z, which is actually a 608zz because both sides have covers.

Tricky task if you’re not mechanically inclined but only took about 30min and my first Dryside is worlds quieter with the new NSK bearings I installed.

Having the Dryside open and seeing they actually balance it and the specialty milled parts makes me appreciate the price/value of these units much more.

Edit: maybe spoke too soon. Less bearing noise but more vibration hum. Possible I threw off the balance pressing the new bearings on. Used a piece of pine with a hole drilled to allow the shaft to penetrate but should have got it most of the way on pressing with the old bearings first. Lessons learned.
 
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Follow up on bearing replacement. The worse of the 2 I did sounds better, but the less bad one sounds exactly the same after some break in months.

Going to try some Bones Reds skateboard bearings. I’ve read they are designed to handle horizontal force more than generic 608 which is what these get from the magnetic pull. Will report back.
 
Follow up on bearing replacement. The worse of the 2 I did sounds better, but the less bad one sounds exactly the same after some break in months.

Going to try some Bones Reds skateboard bearings. I’ve read they are designed to handle horizontal force more than generic 608 which is what these get from the magnetic pull. Will report back.


Update: got around to trying Bones Reds. Much louder than the NSK that were a fraction of the cost. I think skateboard bearings are made to spin more freely and lower rpm, thus have looser tolerance. Back to the NSK tonight 😂
 
Update: got around to trying Bones Reds. Much louder than the NSK that were a fraction of the cost. I think skateboard bearings are made to spin more freely and lower rpm, thus have looser tolerance. Back to the NSK tonight 😂
Wish I would have found this tread before just following the videos online (and posted in other threads). I purchased the old bearings, but have a QD.

Getting these bearings off is a PITA! I had 2 MP40QD's making noise & 1 that was just dead. Glad, because I broke the casing on one of the center shafts trying to pry the bearings off. Don't have a good answer or tool yet for the removal.

Will update when I get the new 608zz bearings, I bought the cheap ones off ebay.
 
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Wish I would have found this tread before just following the videos online (and posted in other threads). I purchased the old bearings, but have a QD.

Getting these bearings off is a PITA! I had 2 MP40QD's making noise & 1 that was just dead. Glad, because I broke the casing on one of the center shafts trying to pry the bearings off. Don't have a good answer or tool yet for the removal.

Will update when I get the new 608zz bearings, I bought the cheap ones off ebay.

There is a learning curve no doubt. My biggest problem was knocking off the little boogers of blue epoxy used to balance the inner assembly. Then you’re screwed if you can’t see exactly where it was to super glue it back in place.

The mini bearing puller makes the actual bearing removal a breeze.

I found the best method to install the new ones without tweaking them to be squeeze them most of the way on with the old bearings on a vise, and then the last little bit with a piece of 2x4 with a hole drilled for shaft clearance. Found out the hard way if you press them all the way with the old bearing the shaft presses into them as well and you have a stack of 2 bearings whoops!

This is the bearing puller I used:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01LFHNW6A
 
Wish I would have found this tread before just following the videos online (and posted in other threads). I purchased the old bearings, but have a QD.

Getting these bearings off is a PITA! I had 2 MP40QD's making noise & 1 that was just dead. Glad, because I broke the casing on one of the center shafts trying to pry the bearings off. Don't have a good answer or tool yet for the removal.

Will update when I get the new 608zz bearings, I bought the cheap ones off ebay.
I did THIS exact same thing yesterday! I didnt realize I had the QD and overpaid for 2 wrong bearings :). Ordered a puller and the right bearings off AMZN and will see.My fear is that I've knocked the magnet out of balance now because it got stuck onto a wrench and it was hell taking it off.
 
There is a learning curve no doubt. My biggest problem was knocking off the little boogers of blue epoxy used to balance the inner assembly. Then you’re screwed if you can’t see exactly where it was to super glue it back in place.

The mini bearing puller makes the actual bearing removal a breeze.

I found the best method to install the new ones without tweaking them to be squeeze them most of the way on with the old bearings on a vise, and then the last little bit with a piece of 2x4 with a hole drilled for shaft clearance. Found out the hard way if you press them all the way with the old bearing the shaft presses into them as well and you have a stack of 2 bearings whoops!

This is the bearing puller I used:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01LFHNW6A
Got a noisy dry side and looking into ordering some bearings. I just want to confirm i'm reading this right. The blue globs of epoxy are on the motor rotor or armature correct? (The heavy metal part that spins) and the bearing itself has nothing to do with it, you just have to be careful not to break the epoxy off during teardown/reassembly. Correct?
 
Got a noisy dry side and looking into ordering some bearings. I just want to confirm i'm reading this right. The blue globs of epoxy are on the motor rotor or armature correct? (The heavy metal part that spins) and the bearing itself has nothing to do with it, you just have to be careful not to break the epoxy off during teardown/reassembly. Correct?
Correct. It’s super obvious once you pull the housing off. The being careful part is not knocking the epoxy off when you’re pulling the bearings.
 
Awesome. Appreciate it.
Be sure to check which model and bearings you have. I have a QD and I order the older bearing my first try. Also, I bought a small bearing puller from amazon, because I broke the casing on the middle shaft trying to pry the bearings off one of my drysides. Getting the bearings off is the hard part, everything else is easy.
 
Be sure to check which model and bearings you have. I have a QD and I order the older bearing my first try. Also, I bought a small bearing puller from amazon, because I broke the casing on the middle shaft trying to pry the bearings off one of my drysides. Getting the bearings off is the hard part, everything else is easy.
I was able to put some pressure on my bearing and tap the shaft with a brass punch and they popped out pretty easily! Got it done in about 30minutes and its running strong! There may be a screw that'll need to be replaced if i get into it again but it worked for now 😅
 
I was able to put some pressure on my bearing and tap the shaft with a brass punch and they popped out pretty easily! Got it done in about 30minutes and its running strong! There may be a screw that'll need to be replaced if i get into it again but it worked for now 😅
lol! Nice! I had 4 that were making noise, a couple by my own doing as they had either fallen or gotten wet. So the 1 I broke was no big deal, learning curve. Got the other 3 fixed. It's really not that hard, wish I done it a long time ago rather than buying new pumps.
 
Just to confirm before ordering, the newer MP40qd uses 2 608zz bearings?
 

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