My 250 Gallon CDA Mixed Reef Build

[antrageous]

Various other issues I ran into the past couple weeks:
Designed and built a remote refugium out of acrylic. However, I used 1/4" acrylic which was too thin and the tank bowed in the middle a 1/4" outward. psh, wait a waste. live and learn. I'll start over another day, probably with 1/2" acrylic. here's a pic.

Next issue was the water line in the display tank being too low. It was literally 2 inches under the eurobracing and no matter what speed the return varios 8 pump was set, the water just kept flowing easily into the overflow at that height. I tried to higher the bean animal open secondary channel but that barely raised the water level.
Finally I just built a small acrylic sheet around the overflow to bring up height of the water level. Doing this also meant I had to add flex pvc and bulkheads to the return holes since water ran into those sections. This fixed the issue and the water level is now 1/2" under the top eurobracing. what a pain...

 

[antrageous]

Electrical done. Not going to be fancy about this, since I change my equipment often and it's just gonna get more messy further down my build. Also I most likely will add a controller later.

This should bring my build up to date as of now.
I currently have a leaking bulkhead, so it will be a while for my next update. Happy Reefing guys!

 

[SaracensRugby]

Beautiful tank. Did you put the euro-brace on top of the tank so as not to alter the water line inside of the tank?

 

[thewackyreefer]

I'm running a Synergy overflow on mine and experiencing the same thing with the water level being 2" or so under the euro-brace. Great solution, glad it worked out for you.

 

[antrageous]

Beautiful tank. Did you put the euro-brace on top of the tank so as not to alter the water line inside of the tank?

Thank you SaracensRugby!
The top eurobracing was built and placed by the tank builder and they are normally build this way. I can only assume me choosing 1.5" drain holes were too big and caused too much water to easily fall back into the overflow to the sump. I assume 1" drains would take longer to go down the overflow which allows the water line in the display to higher up. Oh wells, at least I know I can install a massive pump in the future and adjust the water line.

 

[antrageous]

I'm running a Synergy overflow on mine and experiencing the same thing with the water level being 2" or so under the euro-brace. Great solution, glad it worked out for you.

Oh man, I thought it would be solved with the synergy overflow. I hope you find a solution, cause I didn't think I would be cutting acrylic and placing nylon bolts and wingnuts within the overflow.

 

[antrageous]

Update:
- Fixed leaking bulkhead.
- Re-located my electric box outside of the stand for safety reasons.
Hopefully this upcoming weekend I can finish aquascaping and clean out the sand. Still a long ways too go!

 

[SkiCatTX]

Finished up plumbing a couple weeks ago. For me, this is up with aquascaping of the top two hardest things in this hobby. I have never used a bean animal style overflow but yes it is extremely quiet.

Manifold return:
2 return lines, fuge line, frag line, 2 reactor/filter roller lines.

Started RODI water a couple weeks ago as well.

Nice sump, I really like the colors!

 

[antrageous]

Nice sump, I really like the colors!

Thanks! Good luck with your build!

 

[HighChiefKC]

Do you have your return going back into your overflow box? Thats what that one pic looked like to me...
Following!

 

[antrageous]

Do you have your return going back into your overflow box? Thats what that one pic looked like to me...
Following!

Yup! I have two 3/4" returns and three 1.5" drains for bean animal setup. I needed an internal overflow due to the space in the room. If I had the extra space I would definitely go external instead.

 

[KrustyKrab305]

Sweet build, nice job so far. I too just ordered a new tank from CDA but a 120gal with same style stand but made of wood with a 12 inch canopy.

I had seen a build thread where someone added a 2 inch black film/ sticker so you do not see the waterline under the eurobrace. Something I may do if I run into this when I start my build.

What diameter plumbing did you use for the return? Since the varios 8 is a 1.25 outlet and you return are 3/4. Did you reduce after the check valve?

 

[antrageous]

Sweet build, nice job so far. I too just ordered a new tank from CDA but a 120gal with same style stand but made of wood with a 12 inch canopy.

I had seen a build thread where someone added a 2 inch black film/ sticker so you do not see the waterline under the eurobrace. Something I may do if I run into this when I start my build.

What diameter plumbing did you use for the return? Since the varios 8 is a 1.25 outlet and you return are 3/4. Did you reduce after the check valve?

oh man that sounded so much easier than me cutting and drilling acrylic to raise the water level.
My return varios 8 went from 1.25" reduced to an 1" with four manifold 3/4" ball valves and then split into two 3/4" returns. The manifold hopefully will support the refugium, filter roller, reactor and maybe a frag tank/another reactor. I'm hoping the varios 8 can handle it.

Good luck on your 120, definitely gonna be a fun build!!!

 

[antrageous]

Finally finished my aquascaping and got water in. Took me around a whole day to complete the aquascape.
I still got a long way to go as I am still missing an new skimmer, refugium, more powerheads, top netting, etc.

Here are some old and new photos:
Similar to my past aquascaping on my 120 gallon, I try to focus on cliffs, overhangs, tunnels and caves for my fish to swim.

I've learned that from the Coral placement will most likely change my scape around so in no means this is going to be the permanent look of my tank. I learned that even if I scape the way I want it, the corals actually tell you which spots are needed and moving things around is inevitable. This is something I failed before with my old tank.

Old 120 tank aquascaping: the progression of failing within the years.
The transition from T5 lighting to LED lighting hurt my tank a lot. Also life, work and my stubbornness to adapt change.

New 250 tank aquascaping:
I have not epoxy any rock together as I plan to move things around based off corals and lighting.
Left side:

Right side:

FTS:

 

[antrageous]

3 month update:
- fixed/re-plumbed the manifold. never put your check valve right after your return pump.
- cycled and added old and new fish
- corals, zoas monti, digi added, easy stuff first
- installed regal skimmer, tunze ato, vertex reactor, bm filter roller
pics from when installed.

ill try to provide more updates as these are all old pics..

 

[Lorenzo Angotti]

hi and well done everything looks well, you can start relaxing and enjoy your tank.

 

[t5Nitro]

Great looking tank!! I got a quote from these guys on a build for me. Anything you would change about your current build spec wise? Our tanks would be similarly sized. Srill happy with your choice to go with them as a builder?

 

[antrageous]

Great looking tank!! I got a quote from these guys on a build for me. Anything you would change about your current build spec wise? Our tanks would be similarly sized. Srill happy with your choice to go with them as a builder?

Hi t5Nitro,
If there is anything I would change, it would be the internal overflow box to an external overflow (if you have the room). Other than that, I am very pleased with the build and precision quality of the CD tank. Also, if you plan on going tangs heavy, I suggest 84" length instead of 72", but that's just preference.

 

[t5Nitro]

I would love to have a handful of tangs. My current quote is out there for a 66x36x24, but that could change. I kind of like the seemingly more compact yet large volume, but I appreciate that the distance swimming is still limited.