Discussion in 'Algae (including nuisance algae and bacteria)' started by RobertP, Nov 5, 2017.
Fragmentation for sure occurs with them, in tank cleaning can be risky in that way agreed.
I do not pretend to be an expert but for me the siphon method worked the best. I tried scrubbing but it kept coming back. On one of the pictures you can see the tonga rock is covered with it but it is shorter than the rocks around it. That was one I scrubbed off several times because it was easiest to pick up and scrub. I also pulled rocks out several times and sprayed them off with the garden hose. I think helped because you are removing the gha from the tank. Scrubbing worked but how much is the floating gha going down the drain and how much is just resettling on the rocks? I was changing my filter socks every 5-7 days or until they got clogged with algae so I was removing it but not as quickly as spraying off or siphoning out.
I think the key is getting the nutrients low and removing as much gha from the tank as possible. It was a fight and it took months but it is worth it!
@RobertP do you get any cyano with nopox? that seems to be the downside to it for most reefers that use it.
I had hair algae as thick as a carpet and 3" in length.
Bought a Yellow eye Kole tang and Algae blenny a week ago also and as of today, (6 days) is 100% Gone !!!!
I had no cyano problems ehile I was using it.
Happy to hear that you won your battle with GHA. I had a showdown this summer that was won by physical removal (75% rock was scrubbed inside of tank with toothbrush and 25% pulled out of tank) and running GFO. I saw Melevs video on NoPOx and was going to use but GFO worked for me. It took several weeks but all the GHA started bleaching and becoming weaker and finally did not grow back after scrubbing. I was still running my algae light in the sump to try to keep my macro alive but it died as well. I had a good amount of GHA in the sump that I had to remove which was a pita since it’s pretty cramped in there. I was contemplating throwing in the towel but reading success stories like these kept me going.
Great write up on gha, this certainly portrays my tank currently but haven’t won the battle yet... I one day noticed my nutrients were 0 from a neglected tank about 3 months.. with so much gha on my rocks, Walt Disney... and other high end frags that ended up dying..due to my neglect. I noticed my cheato wouldnt grow.. so I decided to purchase a h380 kessil which grows my cheato like crazy now.. I also was running nopox. And my corals were so pale I decided to discontinue my nopox... after two weeks of just having cheato as my nutrient control my nitrates were still undetectable and corals still seemed unhappy... I did however notice it was easier to remove the gha.. as it was weakened by such low nutrients.. so I began to siphon.. then I decided I should dose some nitrates kn03 and my gha loved it and kept growing a darker green! However it wasn’t growing as fast anymore with detectable nitrates 1-2 ppm. Corals still seemed dull so I upped the dosage and currently reading 5 ppm. My theory is grow more cheato.. and have my corals thrive to outcompete the gha... hasn’t happened yet.. I might end up discontinuing my kn03 dosing and let my nutrients creep down until I can siphon and kill most of my gha. Hopefully this will shift the balance and defeat gha once and for all...forgot to mention I added so many turbo snails.. a fox face and I already have tangs and a lawnmower blenny and they don’t seem to want to eat the gha.. it’s just too much I believe.. it’s so frustrating I hope it just vanashes!
The easiest way to stop growback when doing external scrubbing is to use a metal rasp, a knife tip, to scrape and debride vs brush. Remove the holdfasts at the holdfast level is what stops regrowth
Scrubbing is lawn mowing
Rasping is my grandmother digging out dandelions with a butter knife bc whole plant gone beats a haircut
Peroxide is then used on the cleaned, algae free surfaces to destroy fragments. The method can be used ideally with removed rocks and nothing can beat it.
It's secondarily best on in tank setups where we drained the tank to access the target just the same way. A series of mini repeat water changes is done on the remaining third tank water; to export both peroxide rinse water and fragments. Removal and external work is indicated if someone is serious about winning, although less risky levels can be tempted in tank to see if they'll comply.
All manner of nutrient realignment or sequestration starts after this process, strictly. Most would leave the algae in place, then incrementally work against it.
All clean up crew changes/modifications are done on the clean condition tank for the 1% who are fed up with purposefully farming algae.
In every minor detail we're doing opposite of what the masses do in large current running tank correction threads. We get only the fed up, many of them years deep into eutrophication. Those with entry level invasions, day forty of their day three thousand, can benefit particularly. They still have the chance to act.
Of course it's ideal if fish take care of things like they should. But if they don't
Do what your dentist does
Do what your dr/infection specialist does when they debride a wound and isolate substrates
Lastly, another subtle opposite so critical, in our restoration threads we do nothing to the whole tank all at once. We test rock
Do what your architect does
Model what you think will work before affecting your structure in experiment (how again do the masses handle algae issues?)
Especially handy in large tank arrests:
Take a test rock out of the tank. Do all manner of X to it only. Chart your growback and efforts manual on that sole rock, keep control over what you want on it. Prepare to upscale that to the tank one day
Keep the main tank running in the same manner that got the forest to grow. as the test rock is put back, you are now observing the power of holdfast dandelion removal vs what got us here
Once the target rock is algae free even in a system that promotes algae, we have a greenprint to upscale
Lastly, if I had a dollar for every algae challenge tank that sat on top of a cruddy, crusty, cloud liability/not rinsed in eight years because '98 said so sandbed I'd have three thousand dollars. enough to buy a normal sized reef tank. We must let go of detritus farming, we never actually needed to know anyone nitrate or phosphate levels in all those pages.
End diatribe on algae challenge traits.
someone please test us on this~
anyone here post up your meanest before pics
we make a test rock behave, upscale the win
I claim its the most enduring, powerful, not open to adaptation method for GHA battles there is. depending on hesitation, we may repeat a few times, but GHA was beaten out in my tank back in about 2010 and Ill never personally care or test for nutrients in my tank, I just keep the sandbed clean as the totality of nutrient control.
The most important trick isn't the slashing of the rock, though that's a great remover.
Its to position preventers vs removers correctly. What the masses do is employ preventatives as removers, it doesn't work, they seek out correction threads.
When you employ your nutrient changes, huge chaeto ball, bio pellets, carbon dosing, new ATS system, CUC from reefcleaners, no pox et al to a clean debrided system, they actually work as they should, preventing growback.
Use manual way to make a system ready for nutrient changes, only make changes to an algae-free system. algae cannot beat that.
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