Goodair
Valuable Member
Here is a rough sketch on what we are talking about. Its will also show one of the perks for sump tanks.
The return exit is lower than the overflow. Once the return pump is turned off, water will backflow into the sump (which a check valve will inevitably fail). Water will keep going back into the sump until the siphon breaks. To break this, you need a way for air to enter the tube. There are different ways to do it, but ultimately you need two holes ( incase one gets covered) that will suck air in instead of water. If its above your water line, a lil water will squirt as your pumps are in so position it in a manner that's not distracting. If under water, make sure to clean it from time to time to prevent a clog. I personally have the return ends slight buried under water where my sump can handle some of the water it sucks in before air enters the system. You can calculate how much water will back flow by adding the water that will get sucked in above the return end + the water in the return pipe.
All this eliminates a need for a check valve.
This should solve the plumbing issue. There are some other great guides if you need more explanation on the web.
That being said, there are other concerns you need to address or be ready to address in the future with a deep tank:
-Cleaning the substrate (long butt stick connected to a cleaner)
-Will the tank glass blow out ( is glass thick enough and seal, this one I cant help with)
-Water flow at the bottom to keep junk suspended and prevent it from being a dead zone. (wave makers and getting access to the bottom)
If I think of anything else, also other members might bring up some good points, we will bring it up. With this hobby, there is no such thing as 100% failsafe, the best we can do is make reduce the chance as much as we can.
The return exit is lower than the overflow. Once the return pump is turned off, water will backflow into the sump (which a check valve will inevitably fail). Water will keep going back into the sump until the siphon breaks. To break this, you need a way for air to enter the tube. There are different ways to do it, but ultimately you need two holes ( incase one gets covered) that will suck air in instead of water. If its above your water line, a lil water will squirt as your pumps are in so position it in a manner that's not distracting. If under water, make sure to clean it from time to time to prevent a clog. I personally have the return ends slight buried under water where my sump can handle some of the water it sucks in before air enters the system. You can calculate how much water will back flow by adding the water that will get sucked in above the return end + the water in the return pipe.
All this eliminates a need for a check valve.
This should solve the plumbing issue. There are some other great guides if you need more explanation on the web.
That being said, there are other concerns you need to address or be ready to address in the future with a deep tank:
-Cleaning the substrate (long butt stick connected to a cleaner)
-Will the tank glass blow out ( is glass thick enough and seal, this one I cant help with)
-Water flow at the bottom to keep junk suspended and prevent it from being a dead zone. (wave makers and getting access to the bottom)
If I think of anything else, also other members might bring up some good points, we will bring it up. With this hobby, there is no such thing as 100% failsafe, the best we can do is make reduce the chance as much as we can.
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