My Radion Graph

[Acro]

Okay so I'm going to give it two more months with my LEDS. I have completely revised my lighting schedule.

White will only be on for 5 hours a day at 50% max intensity with a 20 minute jump to 70% mid day. The rest of the time will be all blues with some green and red mixed in.

Thoughts and suggestions would be great. Thanks!

 

[Dan1789]

Have you tried the premade settings?

 

[Acro]

Have you tried the premade settings?

Yes, I have used high growth and radiant color.

This graph is high growth with shorter white period and one high shot of light. I was trying to mimic MH for 5 hours and t5s for the rest.

 

[Acro]

I uploaded the wrong picture, this is what it really looks like.

 

[Acro]

Can everyone see the picture? Not showing up on my end geez lol

 

[Sleeperr34]

Dont know radions graphs. But i know with my Vegas i got lucky before mine came in and a friend bleached his whole system when he switched so i did some looking before i set mine up. But what % are all ur colors at at peak? I would say if its by ur graph and ur whites r that much higher turn them way down and blues up. My whites on my vegas never go above 30% while all 3 blues go to 100 and red 10%max and green5-10% max.

 

[Sleeperr34]

And i have lots of heavy clouds through out the day as well.

 

[Dan1789]

I agree that blues should be higher than your whites. What do you mean you are giving it two more months? To see how the growth is? Before you sell them? Leave hobby?

 

[Acro]

Dont know radions graphs. But i know with my Vegas i got lucky before mine came in and a friend bleached his whole system when he switched so i did some looking before i set mine up. But what % are all ur colors at at peak? I would say if its by ur graph and ur whites r that much higher turn them way down and blues up. My whites on my vegas never go above 30% while all 3 blues go to 100 and red 10%max and green5-10% max.

I only run whites for 5 hours at 100% for my acros. Blues are at 100% at the same time and stAy on at various intensities before and after whites.

 

[Acro]

I agree that blues should be higher than your whites. What do you mean you are giving it two more months? To see how the growth is? Before you sell them? Leave hobby?

Two more months with the radions, then move back to t5. Never leave the hobby! lol

 

[jservedio]

How deep is the tank your Radion is over and do you have no lenses, 80 degree TIR, or 120 degree TIR?

 

[Acro]

How deep is the tank your Radion is over and do you have no lenses, 80 degree TIR, or 120 degree TIR?

I have the standard lense that it comes with when purchased. Tank is 26 inch deep and lights are about 7-8 inches off of water.

 

[Sleeperr34]

Yea i would say cut ur whites Down by half. Keep blues up. I know with my vegas i only have my whites at 30% and the 3 diff blues at 100% with a 3hr ramp up and ramp down time. With a total of 10hr run time.

But i would start at 8hrs and for sure turn whites down maybe do 30% and blues at 75-80% green and reds would say start at 10%. Try that for a while and then slowly start turning it up 5% each week until ur blues are at 100%. But this is comming from someone using vegas and i know radions r set a little diff with the leds and output.

 

[jservedio]

I have the standard lense that it comes with when purchased. Tank is 26 inch deep and lights are about 7-8 inches off of water.

The white graph looks good to me for a deep tank and you will probably want to get eventually to 100% for what I assume, by your name, is an acro dominated system, but everything else looks off in relation to the white. Also, be really careful directly under the clusters in the top 1/3 of the tank since the PAR is obscene and you will have a nasty hotspot (but this can be good for some super high light loving acros like Millies, Abros, Efflos, etc) you need to be aware of.

Your blue looks very, very low compared to your white and other colors. You should have your blue set at the same level as your white throughout the day for growth and color. While white is great for acros, so is blue - you will generate more PAR with your blue lights than with your white lights. When you boost your blue, you will have to drop your white for a little since the total intensity is going to go way up, but you can eventually get them back to where they are in a couple weeks. The spectrum graph on the bottom is your friend - especially if you want to emulate the growth you had with T5s or MHs.

The best thing I did for my tank and my Radion configuration was borrowing a PAR meter. I now have PAR graphs for my entire tank in various different settings. I don't use the default lens (I have the wide-angles) so I can't give you comparable numbers - but you are heading in the right direction.

Your red and green levels would be my only worry since a lot of red light, especially in the hotspot, isn't going to be good. But, I can't see their relative intensities so they might be fine.

If you want a custom light graph, you really need a PAR meter otherwise you are just shooting in the dark and will probably **** off your tank. Also, always start off with a tried and true spectrum by copying a nice T5 configuration or a quality MH bulb and then slowly adjust things from there to maximize growth and color. Don't start with some whacky spectrum with unknown PAR values and expect anything.

 

[Gwitness]

Which radions do you have jservedio? And what size tank? I might be interested in graph if we have same Radions.....I have 120 degree lens on my Radion gen 2s

 

[Sleeperr34]

Only problem i have with that is like u said u have the wider lens to urs. With the normal lens i wouldnt turn up the whites that high because it is already going to have plenty of power to grow sps on the bottome of the tank with only running 50% power with hot spots higher up and centered for the sps that just craves high par.

The light spectrum for the cool whites is close to that of 14,000k MH.

And that is if they r really using the 5,000k cool white Crees. But the blues as well have a similar spectrum

Between the 430-480 mark. And around the 450 mark is were u get most of ur growth from. But given that there are the same amount of blue to white and the whites r twice the watts running whites at 50% and blues at 100% would give a more even balance of the spectrum to make it more advanced for coral growth and health.

But this is what sucks about leds. Soucj tweeting involved and what is right for one is way wrong for another.

I have seen a tank that they have the whites at 0 and put in a coue t5 cool white bulbs to run any white he wanted. Because he turned his whites off and saw his corals comming back and getting color back. So instead of have his whites low so his corals would do great but he didnt like the look of the tank felt it was to dark and way to blue. So he put the t5 in so he got the look he liked as well as the spectrum his corals like.

Par is not everything. And i dont know a meter out there that i trust what is says when it comes to leds. Not saying dont use one. U should. But i wouldnt believe that is ur true number. More of seeing an average so u know what high par sport vs low u have. Just as a comparison to help place things. Not turning ur unit up until u get the the par number u want. Because i feel ( and it is my view ) that a par meter will not read the led with a true enough number to trust.

 

[jservedio]

Par is not everything. And i dont know a meter out there that i trust what is says when it comes to leds. Not saying dont use one. U should. But i wouldnt believe that is ur true number. More of seeing an average so u know what high par sport vs low u have. Just as a comparison to help place things. Not turning ur unit up until u get the the par number u want. Because i feel ( and it is my view ) that a par meter will not read the led with a true enough number to trust.

Intensity is 1/3 of the lighting equation (with the others being spectrum and photoperiod) and I don't know of any other way of measuring intensity other than a PAR meter. Yes, PAR meters aren't accurate when reading LEDs all combined - but correcting them to read close to exact is very easy. Since LEDs emit such a narrow spectrum, you can look at the PAR sensor's sensitivity graph to determine how under or over represented that particular spectrum is and simply go one channel at a time then add them up. Yes, it takes some time, but if you want to know exactly what your PAR is this is the only way. Of course you could always just multiply the number by 1.2 and that is a safe estimate and you will know you are slightly under that. The OPs spectrum will most likely be very close to what a PAR meter reads out because the majority of his light is white - I would bet the PAR meter is less than 5% off.

Of course you shouldn't just set your lights to the PAR you want because as I said, that is only part of the equation. However, the spectrum for a Radion is simple seeing as a spectrum graph is spit out for every single adjustment you make in real time. Pick a spectrum you are shooting for and adjust the light until it creates the spectrum - very easy. And don't "eyeball" it since your eyes aren't good at approximating blue light - that is what the ecosmartlive program is for.

 

[jservedio]

Which radions do you have jservedio? And what size tank? I might be interested in graph if we have same Radions.....I have 120 degree lens on my Radion gen 2s

I have a G2 Pro w/ 120 degree TIR lenses running over a 16" deep tank. I don't want to hijack this thread so PM me if you want to know about my lighting schedule and PAR numbers.

 

[Acro]

A lot of good comments on here, I'll have to read it more thoroughly on my work break. Thanks for input everyone

 

[Acro]

People feel free to hijack, I think everyone needs to understand LED better. I'd love to keep my radions.

As far as my blues compared to whites, they are both at 100% intensity of 40% overall intensity. They never match even if they are set up the same numbers, time and intensity.

I would love for some clear insight of setting up LEDS. It's something that is really missing.