My T5 fixture is on it's last legs and I'm going to have to replace it with something. How do I know what amount of light to use?

[kdx7214]

I have a 75g Aqueon tank (48" x 19" x 21"). Right now I have a 6 bulb T5 fixture with three Coral+ and three Coral Blue bulbs. This happened after storms cause a power outage.

Right now I have a mix of fish, macro algae, and soft corals but hope to add some SPS in the future, so would like to plan accordingly.

I've looked at various brands but sort of got lost in the information overload. I'd like to go with LED, although they seem to be pretty expensive. I'd like to be able to dim them and control them with my reef-pi setup (RoboTank rocks!).

Anyone have any recommendations on number of lights (or wattage) to look for? Maybe brands that are reliable and not too pricey? My current fixture sits on top of the tank and makes it difficult to work in the tank, so I'd love to have something that is either out of the way, or easily moveable.

 

[blaxsun]

What about the AI Blades?

 

[Reefer Matt]

I suggest renting a par meter, mapping out the tank with the old lights, then adjusting the new lights to around the same par.
As far as which led lights to buy, I suggest researching them to see which ones are best for your tank goals. The costs vary significantly, as well as what each fixture does. Most of them will grow coral well, so it is more of personal choice, than functionality.

 

[Hooz]

Since you mentioned macro algae specifically, I'd recommend a mix of a few different LED bars so you can customize the color to your liking and needs. You'd probably only need 2-3 bars depending on what look you were going for, and most of the ones people will recommend (Quanta, Orphek or ReefBreeders) can and should be mounted up off of the tank (10-12" depending on which ones you get).

I'd suggest a pair of blue bars in some combination for the coral, and a single "daylight" type bar for fish colors and macro algae growth. I'd probably steer clear of Blades because the white they offer isn't the greatest (on paper) for rendering the color of the fish, and certainly not geared towards macro algae.

You may or may not need dimming control depending on how you mount the bars, which ones you choose and what your end goal is for PAR. RoboTank control is something I'm not at all familiar with, though.

 

[kdx7214]

I suggest renting a par meter, mapping out the tank with the old lights, then adjusting the new lights to around the same par.
As far as which led lights to buy, I suggest researching them to see which ones are best for your tank goals. The costs vary significantly, as well as what each fixture does. Most of them will grow coral well, so it is more of personal choice, than functionality.

There isn't a place within 2 hours of me that rents PAR meters, so I'm out of luck there. I've gone through the data for the various fixtures and honestly am just befuddled by it all.

 

[Hooz]

There isn't a place within 2 hours of me that rents PAR meters, so I'm out of luck there. I've gone through the data for the various fixtures and honestly am just befuddled by it all.

You can rent a PAR meter from BRS. You basically buy a "water tested" (i.e. used) one, keep it for a month and then return it. They refund the purchase price minus a "restocking" (i.e. rental) fee.

Lights are something you (should) set and forget, so it works out pretty well, and it'd save you 4 hours of driving.

 

[Reefer Matt]

There isn't a place within 2 hours of me that rents PAR meters, so I'm out of luck there. I've gone through the data for the various fixtures and honestly am just befuddled by it all.

Here is a playlist from BRS that may help. They also rent the par meters.

 

[Court_Appointed_Hypeman]

If you need to go cheap, I went from a 4 bulb rest on tank T5 fixture to 2 popbloom rs90s, and it was a brightness and spectrum upgrade from 4 ati actinic and coral glow bulbs I had.

Its growing a red anacropora just fine, and looks pretty, but if you got the money for better stuff, I would move on. If you had good teflectors or had a rest on tank T5, I imagine you would need 3 of these cheaper lights to upgrade from what 6 T5s were pulling for you, which is going to be awqkward with the center bracing on that tank.

Just a thought if spending more than $500 isn't feasible

 

[oreo54]

I have a 75g Aqueon tank (48" x 19" x 21"). Right now I have a 6 bulb T5 fixture with three Coral+ and three Coral Blue bulbs. This happened after storms cause a power outage.

Right now I have a mix of fish, macro algae, and soft corals but hope to add some SPS in the future, so would like to plan accordingly.

I've looked at various brands but sort of got lost in the information overload. I'd like to go with LED, although they seem to be pretty expensive. I'd like to be able to dim them and control them with my reef-pi setup (RoboTank rocks!).

Anyone have any recommendations on number of lights (or wattage) to look for? Maybe brands that are reliable and not too pricey? My current fixture sits on top of the tank and makes it difficult to work in the tank, so I'd love to have something that is either out of the way, or easily moveable.

Search here for recommendations but one of the cheaper options:

NICREW Aquarium LED Reef Light, Dimmable Full Spectrum Marine LED for Saltwater Coral Fish Tanks – Nicrew Aquarium

www.nicrew.com

Your t5's come in at about 300-ish watts total.
How much of that your tank sees is dependent on the reflectors, bulb age, ect.

The "safe side" is to match the wattage BUT be able to dim.
3 100w or 2 150w..I'll let others that may own them comment here.



Of course dialing in a look unless you use 100% will subtract photons.
The Nicrew only has 2 channels so there is that.
The popbloom has 3 but one is moonlight.
How many channels you need is your choice.


As to Reef-pi Rob can help you out on what lights and how to set them up.
Some Nicrews interface with it but last I looked it is a bit err confusing.
It shines more w/ DIY lights and 5V (3.3) PWM designed arrays.

 

[Court_Appointed_Hypeman]

Search here for recommendations but one of the cheaper options:

NICREW Aquarium LED Reef Light, Dimmable Full Spectrum Marine LED for Saltwater Coral Fish Tanks – Nicrew Aquarium

www.nicrew.com

Your t5's come in at about 300-ish watts total.
How much of that your tank sees is dependent on the reflectors, bulb age, ect.

The "safe side" is to match the wattage BUT be able to dim.
3 100w or 2 150w..I'll let others that may own them comment here.



Of course dialing in a look unless you use 100% will subtract photons.
The Nicrew only has 2 channels so there is that.
The popbloom has 3 but one is moonlight.
How many channels you need is your choice.


As to Reef-pi Rob can help you out on what lights and how to set them up.
Some Nicrews interface with it but last I looked it is a bit err confusing.
It shines more w/ DIY lights and 5V (3.3) PWM designed arrays.

Popbloom RS90 has 4 channels

 

[bobnicaragua]

For acropora you can’t beat T5. I would go with an aquatic life Hybrid fixture. They have 4 t5 bulbs with a space in the middle to add any LEDs you want.

 

[oreo54]

Popbloom RS90 has 4 channels

Oops ..Even sadder since I just posted the 4 channels here.

Popbloom RL90

My Popbloom RL90s just came in last night 2 lights, arm mounted eith they arm kit that is included with that package. Over a 75G DT Switched from 4 T5 ATI Bulbs in a very old rest on tank fixture. 2 actinic, 1 white, 1 grow purple. The lights are mounted at the lowest position on the arm as...

www.reef2reef.com

 

[nereefpat]

Why is the fixture on it's last legs? About the only thing that can happen to them is a ballast going bad, which can be replaced for about 30-40 bucks.

 

[kdx7214]

Why is the fixture on it's last legs? About the only thing that can happen to them is a ballast going bad, which can be replaced for about 30-40 bucks.

This fixture is just plain odd. The ballast in it is a custom job for that fixture. I can't find a replacement that will fit into the space available. The bulbs are flickering on and off (including a new test bulb). The bulbs are also a year old and need to be replaced. Given all of that, it would probably be better to do the swap now than wait until the last minute.