My tank is moving

BigRedReefer MT

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I'm new to the hobbie and am purchasing a new home. I have yet to have to move my tank from it's position and not surprisingly really apprehensive about how this project is going to play out. I'm looking for some pointers on the methods that will make this project the easiest and safest on my corals and fish.
I've been planning this for the last two days since my offer was accepted and this is what I've come up with this far. If anybody sees something I've missed or think is a bad idea please feel free to let me know and explain why.

1. I don't want to shock everything by changing the water chemistry to much. My plan here is to mix 1/3 fresh water at the home and use 2/3 of the water from the tank. I will do this by packing 1/3 in buckets and keeping it heated and aerated at the new home. The remaining 1/3 will be used to transport the fish,cuc, and corals.
2. I figure a large tote would work to house the fish and cuc. The rock I will probably pack in the buckets with 1/3 of the old water. That leaves the corals in another tote. This part concerns me due to the potential for them to shift during the trip and touch each other. ;Nailbiting;Nailbiting Especially the hydnophora ( horn of death;Vamp). Should I bag each piece separating them and then put them in a tote with water to keep the temp stable and minimize movement?
3. The tank is not drilled and I am running HOB on everything so there is no sump or plumbing to disconnect.
4. To move the rock, fish and coral I can use my wife's SUV to keep things warm since it's getting cold here in Montana. The tank however will not fit so it's going to have to make the 10 mile trip either in the back of my truck or a small u-haul trailer. It will be easier to pick up and set down in my truck, but will the bio filter in my sand be able to live with the sudden drop in temp? Then, what's the best way to heat the tank back up without cracking or shattering it due to temp swings?
5. My light fixtures ( Chinese black box) are attached in a kinda janky way using closet rack brackets. There were no supports above where I placed the tank in the first place when it was a FOWLR with an aqueon sit on top led fixture. I don't want to put holes in the new walls but above where the tank will sit is a drop ceiling or heat ducts depending on it's chosen spot. Any ideas on a less damaging DIY mounting system would be appreciated. Keep in mind it's a rimmed tank with a wide top brace and the stand is really a sturdy oak coffee table.:D

If I've missed something please feel free to chime in. I'm jacked about the house but scared sh:+less about how to do this.
 
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NY_Caveman

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I'm new to the hobbie and am purchasing a new home. I have yet to have to move my tank from it's position and not surprisingly really apprehensive about how this project is going to play out. I'm looking for some pointers on the methods that will make this project the easiest and safest on my corals and fish.
I've been planning this for the last two days since my offer was accepted and this is what I've come up with this far. If anybody sees something I've missed or think is a bad idea please feel free to let me know and explain why.

1. I don't want to shock everything by changing the water chemistry to much. My plan here is to mix 1/3 fresh water at the home and use 2/3 of the water from the tank. I will do this by packing 1/3 in buckets and keeping it heated and aerated at the new home. The remaining 1/3 will be used to transport the fish,cuc, and corals.
2. I figure a large tote would work to house the fish and cuc. The rock I will probably pack in the buckets with 1/3 of the old water. That leaves the corals in another tote. This part concerns me due to the potential for them to shift during the trip and touch each other. ;Nailbiting;Nailbiting Especially the hydnophora ( horn of death;Vamp). Should I bag each piece separating them and then put them in a tote with water to keep the temp stable and minimize movement?
3. The tank is not drilled and I am running HOB on everything so there is no sump or plumbing to disconnect.
4. To move the rock, fish and coral I can use my wife's SUV to keep things warm since it's getting cold here in Montana. The tank however will not fit so it's going to have to make the 10 mile trip either in the back of my truck or a small u-haul trailer. It will be easier to pick up and set down in my truck, but will the bio filter in my sand be able to live with the sudden drop in temp? Then, what's the best way to heat the tank back up without cracking or shattering it due to temp swings?
5. My light fixtures ( Chinese black box) are attached in a kinda janky way using closet rack brackets. There were no supports above where I placed the tank in the first place when it was a FOWLR with an aqueon sit on top led fixture. I don't want to put holes in the new walls but above where the tank will sit is a drop ceiling or heat ducts depending on it's chosen spot. Any ideas on a less damaging DIY mounting system would be appreciated. Keep in mind it's a rimmed tank with a wide top brace and the stand is really a sturdy oak coffee table.:D

If I've missed something please feel free to chime in. I'm jacked about the house but scared sh:+less about how to do this.

The biggest thing I learned moving tanks over the years was have lots of extra saltwater ready. You always need more than you think you do.

Also, move the tank first or last. Not with everything else.

If worried about the hydnophora, bag that one. Corals will probably be stressed and closed up, not looking to go to war which is a big energy expenditure for them.

As far as the temperature of the tank, that is a big concern. Sounds like a short trip but perhaps blankets with heat packs duct taped to them may help. Or maybe you can set up a portable heater off the truck power and make blankets like a tent to enclose it. Or heck, use an actual tent.

Good luck! I leave you with some facts:

Bacteria Temperature Facts
The temperature for optimum growth of nitrifying bacteria is between 77-86° F (25-30° C).

Growth rate is decreased by 50% at 64° F (18° C).

Growth rate is decreased by 75% at 46-50° F.

No activity will occur at 39° F (4° C)

Nitrifying bacteria will die at 32° F (0° C).

Nitrifying bacteria will die at 120° F (49° C)

Nitrobacter is less tolerant of low temperatures than Nitrosomonas. In cold water systems, care must be taken to monitor the accumulation of nitrites.

http://www.bioconlabs.com/nitribactfacts.html
 
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BigRedReefer MT

BigRedReefer MT

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Thank you for the info on the temp effects on the bio filter. I think the blanket and tent idea is perfect. If I choose the u-haul trailer route to keep the wind off the tank with the blankets and heat packs inside the tank and some glass tops to further insulate I'll bet I can keep the temp above 32. Super smart.
 
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BigRedReefer MT

BigRedReefer MT

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Im bumping this thread because I'm planning on moving my tanks next week. Anybody's imput would be appreciated.
 
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BigRedReefer MT

BigRedReefer MT

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How did the move go? What part of MT are you from?
I live in the Bozeman area. I am moving the tank tomorrow. I got my RO/DI hooked up today and have been making water all day. Tomorrow I'll go break down my tank and move everything over to the new house. I have a green hair algae outbreak at the moment so this is a good time for me scrub the rocks and spray them with a little peroxide to combat that.
 

Rock solid aquascape: Does the weight of the rocks in your aquascape matter?

  • The weight of the rocks is a key factor.

    Votes: 10 8.3%
  • The weight of the rocks is one of many factors.

    Votes: 43 35.8%
  • The weight of the rocks is a minor factor.

    Votes: 36 30.0%
  • The weight of the rocks is not a factor.

    Votes: 30 25.0%
  • Other.

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