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It's probably a big over haul vs a quick fix. I would be willing to bet it was a power surge that fried it. Something similar happened to me a while back with a nice dc pump. Ever since then I have literally everything important on one of those wall mounted surge protectors with 6 outlets. Not the power bar ones but the ones that go right in outlet. Hope that helps for the future.
 
Sorry to hear about your bad day man! Hope it gets better.
You Can Do It Cat GIF by Chibird
 
Thanks everyone for the support! Two of the issues (aefw, energy bar) my family and Friends would not understand, so you all were my outlet on this one. I'm glad I did come here as it seems maybe I can do this energy bar myself. You guys rock
 
Really sorry to hear about your string of bad luck.

Whether you end up replacing your EB832 or repairing it, I highly recommend connecting it to a surge protector, or better yet, a UPS backup battery with surge protection. With a UPS backup battery, not only can you protect the EB832 and connected equipment from power surges, you can keep critical aquarium equipment running during a power failure. The Apex can be configured to detect when it's running on battery power and to shut down high-powered devices like lights, heaters, and pumps to preserve the battery life for water movement. The Apex can even send you an alarm notification about the power failure if you also connect your Internet router to a UPS battery.

See my Apex Power Monitoring tutorial for step-by-step instructions on how to integrate the Apex with a UPS battery:
https://www.reef2reef.com/ams/neptune-apex-programming-tutorials-part-4-power-monitoring.698/
 
I can go through my insurance but I'll have to pay my deductible from what Progressive told me earlier. The glass won't be $500 installed. Quote from safelite said $423.

that sucks, I’m surprised, but then again; last time I was in NJ left hand turns were illegal.

don’t know if you’re up for it, but windshields are also really easy to replace. You will need some special tools though so it might be worth just paying.

I didn’t know it was free in Florida, so I went through the trouble of learning to do it. I think the tools would’ve been like $150 for what I was driving at the time. The glass was surprisingly cheap, but again, free replacement.

hopefully you’re able to fix your powerbar using that video. I’ve never been inside one but I do repair electronics and that should be an easy fix.
 
In case it is useful the last time I needed a new windshield I used safelite. My deductible was more than the cost so insurance was useless. I went through safelite questionnaire twice on their website. First time I said to use my insurance even though I knew I’d pay foe it all out of pocket anyway. Second time I said pay cash. The price they quoted me for cash was $100 less than to go through insurance. Just in case you’re in the same boat as me. If your i deductible is too high then don’t let them do an insurance claim. They charge a lot for the paperwork and it wasn’t gonna do anything anyway. Sorry about your day too. When it rains it pours. Hope you got all the bad luck out at once.

it might not generate an incident on car fax that way. If op cares.

I recently traded in that vehicle and totally got BS’ed into less payout because it had been in an “accident” needing the windshield replaced (stray highway rock).
 
Neptune usually offers to sell you a new or refurbished for cheaper than the price of a new one if that’s easier.
I ordered two of them from Amazon 24v 500mah... I'm going to try to do this myself. The hardest part seems to be removing those pins.
 
I ordered two of them from Amazon 24v 500mah... I'm going to try to do this myself. The hardest part seems to be removing those pins.

that’s because of how he did it. I tried to watch the video to maybe give you advice? Or my opinion on how hard it is?

so, super easy btw. 1/10 that guy’s soldering was awful, he also handled the internals really poorly so that he had no issues makes it seem even easier.

I would recommend not using an iron to desolder. Use a heat gun (or a blow dryer) and heat the area evenly. It’ll be easier to get it off, it’ll basically fall apart. Wear gloves, work on something electrically inert... oh, I know you already ordered the part, but I would’ve tried to match the manufacturer of the board and not just something generic. It looked really similar so maybe it wasn’t /shrug.

you can do it. That guy did it, and whatever you think your soldering skills are, they’re probably better than that. That guy had confidence, he hasn’t destroyed enough things accidentally yet.
 
that’s because of how he did it. I tried to watch the video to maybe give you advice? Or my opinion on how hard it is?

so, super easy btw. 1/10 that guy’s soldering was awful, he also handled the internals really poorly so that he had no issues makes it seem even easier.

I would recommend not using an iron to desolder. Use a heat gun (or a blow dryer) and heat the area evenly. It’ll be easier to get it off, it’ll basically fall apart. Wear gloves, work on something electrically inert... oh, I know you already ordered the part, but I would’ve tried to match the manufacturer of the board and not just something generic. It looked really similar so maybe it wasn’t /shrug.

you can do it. That guy did it, and whatever you think your soldering skills are, they’re probably better than that. That guy had confidence, he hasn’t destroyed enough things accidentally yet.
Unfortunately I need a 12v 500ma, not 24v. I canceled my Amazon order. 12v 500ma seems to not be in stock other than china with a eta of July.
 
Unfortunately I need a 12v 500ma, not 24v. I canceled my Amazon order. 12v 500ma seems to not be in stock other than china with a eta of July.

Most components are from China. Or as the Taiwanese call it, Taiwan. But they’re ******* us pretty hard right now.

it’s too bad we don’t want manufacturing jobs here in the US. We could surpass our dependency on foreign silicon manufacturing in about a year.

I’m sure that’s now entirely off the table with our plutocratic overlords. Hail obiden!!
 
I was wondering if the 24v was a typo...
Again, replacing capacitors will be a better and longer term solution. Also, I'd first verify if it's the 12v module that's damaged.
 
I was wondering if the 24v was a typo...
Again, replacing capacitors will be a better and longer term solution. Also, I'd first verify if it's the 12v module that's damaged.

this is smart advice. Got a multi meter? Set it to continuity, set about touching all the places power should flow. No flow = something burnt up. Pull, clean, replace.
 
I was wondering if the 24v was a typo...
Again, replacing capacitors will be a better and longer term solution. Also, I'd first verify if it's the 12v module that's damaged.
How would I go about doing this? This sounds much more indepth... I'm not a electrical guys, so without a diy I'm dead in the water. Maybe I'm best paying Neptune..
 
How would I go about doing this? This sounds much more indepth... I'm not a electrical guys, so without a diy I'm dead in the water. Maybe I'm best paying Neptune..
I have series of articles and videos on the subject:

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/another-attempt-at-fixing-apex-eb832.804717/



There is actually a way to tell if the 12v PSU is the problem without even opening up the EB832. I go over the details in the video. Here's the link to the post: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/another-attempt-at-fixing-apex-eb832.804717/post-8700574

If you are not comfortable, I can do it for you as well and it will be cheaper than neptune, and you will actually get something that will last longer.
 
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