New Clown Rubbing Face On Glass

[lararose]

Hi everyone,


I’m a bit worried about a new clownfish I just introduced to my nano tank (tank has been cycled for about 2.5 months).


Since adding him, he’s been:

• Rubbing/pressing his face against the glass and moving it up and down
• Hovering near the top of the tank
• Staying close to the glass and moving along it

He also hasn’t eaten yet, although I know that can be normal for a new fish.


I’ve also noticed white, stringy poop coming from him, which has me even more concerned.


For context, I did have another clownfish in this tank that passed away a couple of days ago. That fish never ate from the moment I got it. I had my water tested at my local fish store (the same one I’ve always used for my 200L tank with no issues), and they said my parameters were “perfect” and couldn’t explain why it died. They were confident it was just a bad fish and that adding another should be fine.


After bringing this new clown home and seeing the behaviour, I started researching more deeply and came across information about stray voltage, which I hadn’t previously considered. I checked the tank and found that there was indeed a current coming from my powerhead. Unfortunately, I only discovered this after introducing the new fish.


I’ve since turned the powerhead off and replaced it with an airstone for now, and I’ll be getting a new pump tomorrow.


However, even after removing the faulty equipment, the fish is still showing the same behaviour.


One thing worth mentioning is that he was already doing the face-rubbing motion against the bag during transport home, so I’m not sure if this started before going into my tank.


I’m just really stressed because I don’t want to lose another fish and want to make sure I’m not missing something.


Questions:

• Could this behaviour + white stringy poop point to parasites or something else?
• Could stray voltage have caused lasting damage even after removing the source?
• Is there anything else I should check or do immediately?

Any advice would be really appreciated

 

[W31Olds]

Can you post a Video of your Clownfish or some pics? Stray Voltage is not the problem and rarely every is. There never really is a "bad fish", just a myriad of external issues that can cause fish to die. The first thing I would do is call your LFS and see what they are feeding their Clownfish.

 

[Jay Hemdal Verified Community Expert]

Hi everyone,


I’m a bit worried about a new clownfish I just introduced to my nano tank (tank has been cycled for about 2.5 months).


Since adding him, he’s been:

• Rubbing/pressing his face against the glass and moving it up and down
• Hovering near the top of the tank
• Staying close to the glass and moving along it

He also hasn’t eaten yet, although I know that can be normal for a new fish.


I’ve also noticed white, stringy poop coming from him, which has me even more concerned.


For context, I did have another clownfish in this tank that passed away a couple of days ago. That fish never ate from the moment I got it. I had my water tested at my local fish store (the same one I’ve always used for my 200L tank with no issues), and they said my parameters were “perfect” and couldn’t explain why it died. They were confident it was just a bad fish and that adding another should be fine.


After bringing this new clown home and seeing the behaviour, I started researching more deeply and came across information about stray voltage, which I hadn’t previously considered. I checked the tank and found that there was indeed a current coming from my powerhead. Unfortunately, I only discovered this after introducing the new fish.


I’ve since turned the powerhead off and replaced it with an airstone for now, and I’ll be getting a new pump tomorrow.


However, even after removing the faulty equipment, the fish is still showing the same behaviour.


One thing worth mentioning is that he was already doing the face-rubbing motion against the bag during transport home, so I’m not sure if this started before going into my tank.


I’m just really stressed because I don’t want to lose another fish and want to make sure I’m not missing something.


Questions:

• Could this behaviour + white stringy poop point to parasites or something else?
• Could stray voltage have caused lasting damage even after removing the source?
• Is there anything else I should check or do immediately?

Any advice would be really appreciated

Welcome to Reef2Reef!

Can you post a clear video of the fish under white lights?
How long have you had this fish?
Did both fish come from the same store?

This isn't from "stray voltage".

 

[lararose]

Can you post a Video of your Clownfish or some pics? Stray Voltage is not the problem and rarely every is. There never really is a "bad fish", just a myriad of external issues that can cause fish to die. The first thing I would do is call your LFS and see what they are feeding their Clownfish.

My bad sorry I thought I put this in the post!

 

[lararose]

Welcome to Reef2Reef!

Can you post a clear video of the fish under white lights?
How long have you had this fish?
Did both fish come from the same store?

This isn't from "stray voltage".

Hey! I have just posted a video. I have only just got the fish I’m just super concerned as none of my other clowns have acted like this. Yes both fish came from the same store but different tanks. This one that I have now, they have had for 1 year as well. The reason why I said the stray voltage was because when I put my finger in that has a slight bit of skin missing, I can feel it zapping me. I’ve turned off the pump and now it’s not zapping me. I know it’s not the main reason for the fishes behaviour but just wanted to rule it out

 

[Jay Hemdal Verified Community Expert]

Hey! I have just posted a video. I have only just got the fish I’m just super concerned as none of my other clowns have acted like this. Yes both fish came from the same store but different tanks. This one that I have now, they have had for 1 year as well. The reason why I said the stray voltage was because when I put my finger in that has a slight bit of skin missing, I can feel it zapping me. I’ve turned off the pump and now it’s not zapping me. I know it’s not the main reason for the fishes behaviour but just wanted to rule it out

Feeling electricity in a cut isn’t stray voltage, it is more serious and could give you a shock. Can you use a voltmeter to measure it and then isolate your aquarium devices one by one until you find the failing unit? It is probably the pump, but it could be multiple devices. You’ll need to place one lead on a ground, the other in the tank and take a measurement. Then unplug devices until you see a voltage drop. Until you fix any failed devices, don’t put your hands in the tank. Everything in the tank should be attached to a GFCI. I also need to add that a licensed electrician is your best resource for safety.

 

[Jay Hemdal Verified Community Expert]

Hi everyone,


I’m a bit worried about a new clownfish I just introduced to my nano tank (tank has been cycled for about 2.5 months).


Since adding him, he’s been:

• Rubbing/pressing his face against the glass and moving it up and down
• Hovering near the top of the tank
• Staying close to the glass and moving along it

He also hasn’t eaten yet, although I know that can be normal for a new fish.


I’ve also noticed white, stringy poop coming from him, which has me even more concerned.


For context, I did have another clownfish in this tank that passed away a couple of days ago. That fish never ate from the moment I got it. I had my water tested at my local fish store (the same one I’ve always used for my 200L tank with no issues), and they said my parameters were “perfect” and couldn’t explain why it died. They were confident it was just a bad fish and that adding another should be fine.


After bringing this new clown home and seeing the behaviour, I started researching more deeply and came across information about stray voltage, which I hadn’t previously considered. I checked the tank and found that there was indeed a current coming from my powerhead. Unfortunately, I only discovered this after introducing the new fish.


I’ve since turned the powerhead off and replaced it with an airstone for now, and I’ll be getting a new pump tomorrow.


However, even after removing the faulty equipment, the fish is still showing the same behaviour.


One thing worth mentioning is that he was already doing the face-rubbing motion against the bag during transport home, so I’m not sure if this started before going into my tank.


I’m just really stressed because I don’t want to lose another fish and want to make sure I’m not missing something.


Questions:

• Could this behaviour + white stringy poop point to parasites or something else?
• Could stray voltage have caused lasting damage even after removing the source?
• Is there anything else I should check or do immediately?

Any advice would be really appreciated

White mucus feces in clownfish can have multiple causes, and there is no easy well to tell which is the cause here:

Excess mucus in fish feces:

This will present as white or light colored, stringy fecal material that often hangs from the fish’s anus for a longer than normal period. There are a number of different causes for this, some benign, others very serious. Without access to a microscope, there is little that can be done to diagnose this issue effectively.

Idiopathic mucus feces: this fancy term is just to describe white mucoid bulky feces of no serious consequence, but of an unknown cause. Some suspicion is that this can be caused by changes in diet or diets high in fats.

Starvation: Fish that have no food moving through their bowels may excrete white mucoid feces with little bulk to them. The primary diagnostic for this issue is evident in that the fish won’t been seen to be eating. Resolving the anorexia is of course the prime focus to resolve this issue.

Bacterial infection: internal bacterial infections can cause stringy feces as well. While some of these may resolve on their own, medicated foods containing a broad spectrum, gram negative oral antibiotic may be required.

Metazoan infections: multicellular worms are often blamed for mucoid feces, but in reality, they are almost never the root cause for this, and really, can only be diagnosed through looking for their ova in fecal samples. Fish can harbor tapeworms and nematodes without producing mucoid feces.

Protozoan infection: Hexamita and related diplomonad flagellate protozoans very frequently cause white stringy feces, especially in newly acquired clownfish. Metronidazole is the most frequent treatment for this issue. It can be dosed orally at 25 mg per kg of fish body weight, or 5 g in a kg of food. However, it is a very bitter medication, and some fish will refuse to feed on food containing it. It can be dosed in the water at 25 mg/l, but this is more effective in treating marine fishes, as freshwater fish do not “drink” aquarium water.

Coccidia: These microscopic, spore-forming, single-celled parasites are common diseases in dogs and cats. In fish, they cause epithelial necrosis of the gut, enteritis and the copious production of mucus (Noga 2010). These cannot be diagnosed without microscopic examination, and there is no well researched cure for this in fishes, although Toltrazuril has been tested.

Constipation: This malady is often given as a cause for stringy feces, but it is not as common as one would think. When it is seen, the feces are usually dark, not light in color. Often touted as a “cure for constipation”, many aquarists add Epsom salts (magnesium sulfate) to the aquarium’s water – do not do this in marine aquariums, its use is primarily as a tonic/dip for freshwater fish. Seawater formulas already contain between 7 and 19 grams of magnesium sulfate per gallon (depending on the recipe). NSW magnesium level is around 1200 ppm and sulfur is around 840 ppm. Some benefit might be seen using it as a dip in additional concentrations, but adding a small amount to a marine aquarium itself has no benefit. Epsom salts do have some possible benefit when mixed into the food as a 3% by weight adjunct. Another commonly heard remedy for constipation is; “feed fresh peas”. This is an effective cure for fancy goldfish and Malawi cichlids that develop constipation and bloating. Again, overextrapolation has marine aquarists trying to feed peas to carnivorous fish, etc. The best method to enhance gut motility in fish is to feed frozen adult brine shrimp – not as a permanent diet, just long enough to get the constipation resolved.

 

[W31Olds]

Your Clown looks normal from what I can tell from the Video, but he may be thin. We need some closeup shots or a Video to assess his Condition. The glass surfing is not really a concern. What type and how old is your Pump? The main thing is to get him feeding.

 

[lararose]

Feeling electricity in a cut isn’t stray voltage, it is more serious and could give you a shock. Can you use a voltmeter to measure it and then isolate your aquarium devices one by one until you find the failing unit? It is probably the pump, but it could be multiple devices. You’ll need to place one lead on a ground, the other in the tank and take a measurement. Then unplug devices until you see a voltage drop. Until you fix any failed devices, don’t put your hands in the tank. Everything in the tank should be attached to a GFCI. I also need to add that a licensed electrician is your best resource for safety.

I actually did learn this tonight about the GFCI! I’m planning on getting one first thing tomorrow. I haven’t got a device to read the voltage but I’ve unplugged the pump which was the only thing I noticed that gave me a shock.

 

[lararose]

Your Clown looks normal from what I can tell from the Video, but he may be thin. We need some closeup shots or a Video to assess his Condition. The glass surfing is not really a concern. What type and how old is your Pump? The main thing is to get him feeding.

Okay I’ve just never seen any of my other clowns look so frantic! My pump was brand new only had it for 2.5 months while the tank was cycling. But I’ve just changed pumps today to a new one and the voltage is gone. I also haven’t managed to get him to eat. I fed brine in garlic and spirulina today but no luck.

 

[lararose]

White mucus feces in clownfish can have multiple causes, and there is no easy well to tell which is the cause here:

Excess mucus in fish feces:

This will present as white or light colored, stringy fecal material that often hangs from the fish’s anus for a longer than normal period. There are a number of different causes for this, some benign, others very serious. Without access to a microscope, there is little that can be done to diagnose this issue effectively.

Idiopathic mucus feces: this fancy term is just to describe white mucoid bulky feces of no serious consequence, but of an unknown cause. Some suspicion is that this can be caused by changes in diet or diets high in fats.

Starvation: Fish that have no food moving through their bowels may excrete white mucoid feces with little bulk to them. The primary diagnostic for this issue is evident in that the fish won’t been seen to be eating. Resolving the anorexia is of course the prime focus to resolve this issue.

Bacterial infection: internal bacterial infections can cause stringy feces as well. While some of these may resolve on their own, medicated foods containing a broad spectrum, gram negative oral antibiotic may be required.

Metazoan infections: multicellular worms are often blamed for mucoid feces, but in reality, they are almost never the root cause for this, and really, can only be diagnosed through looking for their ova in fecal samples. Fish can harbor tapeworms and nematodes without producing mucoid feces.

Protozoan infection: Hexamita and related diplomonad flagellate protozoans very frequently cause white stringy feces, especially in newly acquired clownfish. Metronidazole is the most frequent treatment for this issue. It can be dosed orally at 25 mg per kg of fish body weight, or 5 g in a kg of food. However, it is a very bitter medication, and some fish will refuse to feed on food containing it. It can be dosed in the water at 25 mg/l, but this is more effective in treating marine fishes, as freshwater fish do not “drink” aquarium water.

Coccidia: These microscopic, spore-forming, single-celled parasites are common diseases in dogs and cats. In fish, they cause epithelial necrosis of the gut, enteritis and the copious production of mucus (Noga 2010). These cannot be diagnosed without microscopic examination, and there is no well researched cure for this in fishes, although Toltrazuril has been tested.

Constipation: This malady is often given as a cause for stringy feces, but it is not as common as one would think. When it is seen, the feces are usually dark, not light in color. Often touted as a “cure for constipation”, many aquarists add Epsom salts (magnesium sulfate) to the aquarium’s water – do not do this in marine aquariums, its use is primarily as a tonic/dip for freshwater fish. Seawater formulas already contain between 7 and 19 grams of magnesium sulfate per gallon (depending on the recipe). NSW magnesium level is around 1200 ppm and sulfur is around 840 ppm. Some benefit might be seen using it as a dip in additional concentrations, but adding a small amount to a marine aquarium itself has no benefit. Epsom salts do have some possible benefit when mixed into the food as a 3% by weight adjunct. Another commonly heard remedy for constipation is; “feed fresh peas”. This is an effective cure for fancy goldfish and Malawi cichlids that develop constipation and bloating. Again, overextrapolation has marine aquarists trying to feed peas to carnivorous fish, etc. The best method to enhance gut motility in fish is to feed frozen adult brine shrimp – not as a permanent diet, just long enough to get the constipation resolved.

Yeah wow that’s a lot. I would have no idea how to differentiate the difference